'96 Ocean Pro 200 Starter bendix drops out

[Norsemen9]

This started at the end of last season on my '96 Ocean Pro 200.

I'm looking for some experienced advice before I start replacing parts. Mostly on cold starts, I have noticed the Bendix gear on my starter dropping off the flywheel after only a handful of revolutions. With the cowling off, I turn around to watch and even though the ignition key switch is still engaged, the Bendix gear drops and the Starter motor stops. Ironically, it tends to drop out just as the motor is starting to fire off. I can reactivate the key switch and the process starts all over again.

Since the Starter does initially spin, I'm looking past the Solenoid. I do know that both batteries are good, so I'm looking to replace the Starter.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[dingbat]

The starter is designed to drop out the bendix and when it exceeds rpm X. The firing of the motor initiates this drop out process.

Since the movement of the bendix to the "start" position is initiated by the centrifugal force from the initial torque of the starting motor, the bendix will not return to the "start" position until the motor has stopped and been re-energized.

It did it with my old starter. It does it with the new starter.

 

[bob johnson]

its not the starter.... it maybe tune up you need...... and its possible your cold weather starting procedure is at fault as well.... the bendix is dropping because it senses the motor starting.. but the motor is not ready to start...maybe it needs more gas or the air-fuel mixture isn't right...or you are only firing on 4 or 5 cylinders....

if it were me... id make sure my cold weather starting steps were all down pat.

primer the motor with the bulb until the bulb is hard.... turn key to on and push the key in and HOLD for 8 seconds.... then while holding key in, turn the key to start the motor. it may fire..it may not.... push the key in and HOLD for 8 seconds... THEN push the key and turn to start.... if tree attempts don't work....go back and RE_PRESSURIZE the system by pumping the primer bulb till hard again....... the motor is asking for fuel( if everything else is ok...ie plugs, spark on all cylinders...good compression...carbs clean and working correctly)....... I run my motor all winter... and I get that bendix kick out all the time.......the motor eventually starts.......one or two itty bitty pushes on the key aint gonna hack it!!!!!!!!!

 

[dingbat]

primer the motor with the bulb until the bulb is hard.... turn key to on and push the key in and HOLD for 8 seconds.... then while holding key in, turn the key to start the motor. it may fire..it may not.... push the key in and HOLD for 8 seconds... THEN push the key and turn to start.... if tree attempts don't work....go back and RE_PRESSURIZE the system by pumping the primer bulb till hard again..

That was the procedure I was taught and used for years before my primer solenoid started leaking last year.

In trouble shooting the problem, I pulled the line running to the carbs to check for fuel. In doing so, I found pushing the button resulted in a short blast of fuel to the carbs. Holding the button down 2 seconds or 10 seconds made no difference in the amount of fuel introduced into the system. I've since modified my start procedure from "push and hold" to push (momentarily) and count to five before turning the key. Same results. Less wear and tear on the solenoid coil.

A "tired" starter doesn't help. Needs a min. of XXX rpm to start

 

[Fed]

Does the motor have 'quick start' & is it working?
Do you have a fast idle lever? Have you tried it?

It's inertia not centrifugal force that sends the cog up the shaft.
Pre-priming does nothing.
FWIW I have gone from cranking and pushing the key in to ---> pushing the key in and cranking figuring it give me a tiny amount of extra fuel for cold starts.
Probably all in my mind. LOL!

 

[boobie]

Have you checked your spark and compression ?? Spark should jump a 7/16" open air gap on a tester.

 

[bob johnson]

Does the motor have 'quick start' & is it working?
Do you have a fast idle lever? Have you tried it?

It's inertia not centrifugal force that sends the cog up the shaft.
Pre-priming does nothing.
FWIW I have gone from cranking and pushing the key in to ---> pushing the key in and cranking figuring it give me a tiny amount of extra fuel for cold starts.
Probably all in my mind. LOL!

I can tell you from years of experience starting my motor every week in in the winter in bitter cold temps.....priming DOES A LOT!...... you can almost kill the batteries if you don't prime...especially the V6 motors!........and when its really cold, I have to go prime twice usually before the motor starts.... Im talking 5 degrees.....when its about 30 or above...you might get it started just pumping the bulb up hard once.....but the motor is asking for all the fuel that's under pressure it can get!................

 

[dingbat]

I can tell you from years of experience starting my motor every week in in the winter in bitter cold temps.....priming DOES A LOT!...... you can almost kill the batteries if you don't prime...especially the V6 motors!........and when its really cold, I have to go prime twice usually before the motor starts.... Im talking 5 degrees.....when its about 30 or above...you might get it started just pumping the bulb up hard once.....but the motor is asking for all the fuel that's under pressure it can get!................

Yup....

 

[Fed]

Apologies Bob, when I said pre-priming I meant holding the key in for 8 seconds before cranking does nothing.

 

[bob johnson]

Apologies Bob, when I said pre-priming I meant holding the key in for 8 seconds before cranking does nothing.

id disagree with that.....it lets as much fuel into the manifold as there is pressure in the fuel line( from the BULB).......pushing the key opens the solenoid... as long as the key is in the solenoid is open..... and fuel will flow into the manifold as long as there is pressure......its easy to see if you disconnect the fuel line after the solenoid... and push the key in.......at least that's how mine works ( ocean runner 175, 150 and 115)

 

[Fed]

One tiny squirt from any residual pressure, the question is, do you want to leave that little squirt laying in the inlet manifold for 8 seconds or do you want it to be immediately drawn into the motor while cranking? I think you'd get more benefit from sitting on top if the cowl air intake vent and farting.