'95-ish Glastron SSV195 carbureted mercruiser 4.3 starter solonoid wiring color codes

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

I'm working on a '95ish glastron ssv195 with Mercruiser carbureted 4.3L. Ser num. F292586. No starter turnover issue. I can jump across starter solonoid & slave solonoid and it will spin. I see 1 purple/white (or yellow) wire near starter solonoid with a round terminal & black rubber cap. I want to verify the wire b4 i takw a chance & its not an ignition wire. I've looked online but havent found anything exact. I'm not one to assume either. Theres 2 large terminals. All reds are on positive, small terminal has 1 wire, yellow/red stripe. I've more experience with auto starters and have never seen a starter solonoid wire with a tight rubber cap on it, but i suspect this wire is why it won't turn over. Or, its for a sensor i cannot see. Any help is much appreciated. Hull number GLAM 9966a595. Engine Ser. num. F292586 Many Thanks

Reply *note purple/wht (or yellow) wire at top of pic, with rubber cap. Thats the wire in question. Where does it go?

 

[alldodge]

Welcome
I moved you to the Merc section from the Glastron, it's a motor question

The Purple/Yellow should be on the outside small terminal and goes to the electric fuel pump

The Yell/Red wire should be on the inside small terminal

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

Thanks. The electric fuel pump is already receiving power when keyed on. And this is happening without the purple/white(or yellow) wire connected. * I should also note its only a 3 node solonoid. *new discovery* slave solonoid has a failure. Will retest if part arrives today. ** Are the harnesses identical, regardless of boat mfr brand? This is why I originally posted in the glastron specific thread, hoping to determine specific model/year/brand harness colors. If they're universal for the motor's SN & year, then hull mfr won't matter. Its been many years and my nautical brain has been purged, so I'm relearning boats again. Thanks 4 the remedial info. PS, it was running perfectly when last tinkered, years ago. So I'm pretty sure its the slave solonoid. Just that purple n striped wire had me second guessing myself and then wondering what the heck its for, if the electric fuel pump is working properly. Just an extra loom wire hanging around? I'll trace the fuel pump power wire & verify its color. Perhaps a previous mechanic wired it off another constant power source?

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the pump is coming on with the key in the run position and the motor off, it IS NOT wired correctly

 

[alldodge]

The electric fuel pump is already receiving power when keyed on.

As BT said
The oil pressure switch probably went bad so it was bypassed, and that is not safe and against Regs

The hull makes no difference, it's what motor is in the boat that matters.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The wiring on the starter needs some love. The crimps are sub-par and the terminals need cleaning

ABYC color codes listed in the electrical forum stickies.

Motor wiring is about the only documented schematics

AD posted the wiring diagram for your motor

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

If the pump is coming on with the key in the run position and the motor off, it IS NOT wired correctly

Thats important info! What other wire could a mechanic have used on the fuel pump that gives it constant key on power? *the ignition switch is a 3 way switch. I'll trace the existing fuel pump wire color today. Just got notice slave solonoid is delayed, again, and its only 15 mins away in another town, smh! Many thanks.

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

The wiring on the starter needs some love. The crimps are sub-par and the terminals need cleaning

ABYC color codes listed in the electrical forum stickies.

Motor wiring is about the only documented schematics

AD posted the wiring diagram for your motor

Lol, yessir, wire terminal love is on the list. First things first you should've seen it b4 i whacked it with my 2.5 lb thumb waker upper. Terminal will be properly secured soon! Fire BAAAAD!

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

Welcome
I moved you to the Merc section from the Glastron, it's a motor question

The Purple/Yellow should be on the outside small terminal and goes to the electric fuel pump

The Yell/Red wire should be on the inside small terminal

View attachment 402962

Great schematic! Where can I find the Identifier key for all the numbered parts? i.e., the oil pressure sensor, etc. I'm going to be wire color tracing & rewiring properly while replacing possible failed/bypassed sensor. Many Thanks!

 

[nola mike]

Thats important info! What other wire could a mechanic have used on the fuel pump that gives it constant key on power? *the ignition switch is a 3 way switch. I'll trace the existing fuel pump wire color today. Just got notice slave solonoid is delayed, again, and its only 15 mins away in another town, smh! Many thanks.

The oil pressure switch is probably bypassed. Power likely comes off the purple ignition wire somewhere, maybe coil positive or choke. Follow the positive back from the pump to see where it goes.

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

Is the original ignition switch a 4 position or 3 position? The new slave solonoid corrected the no turnover issue. However, I discovered the previous owner swapped an automotive starter instead of marine. New marine starter on order. This automotive starter & solonoid explains the "extra" purple/yellow solonoid wire hanging. When the purple/yellow wire connected properly to the marine solonoid, will this correct the "fuel pump on without motor running" issue or is the 3 position ignition switch needing to be swapped with a 4 position switch? And if so which color wires go to which terminals? Currently its purple to ignition. Yellow/red to solonoid, and red to battery. I just dont know if the ign key switch was originally a 4 position switch & has been swapped & wired to accomodate the 3 lug automotive starter solonoid, or not. Also, the fuel pump oil pressure switch has been bypassed. So that may be whats causing the "fuel pump on with key without engine running, Since the oil pressure switch needs 2b pressurized by engine spinning 2 complete its circuit. ts testing out around 14 ohms so i'll reconnect & test when starter arrives. Thanks for the help! I'm getting closer to getting my head wrapped around this & making the wiring & boat safe! Many thanks fellas! I'll have my family & grandkids out on it and definitely don't want to find out the hard way somebody previously tinkered with unsafe ideas.

 

[alldodge]

Sounds like you need a 3 position key switch. The 4 position switch is used if there are accessories need to stay ON when motor is off

Purple-ignition
yel/red-start

The oil pressure switch is bypassed and needs to be put back correctly. The pur/yel connects to outside post and yel/red connects to inside post on starter

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

New oil pressure to fuel pump switch ordered. It tested within resistance range but fails to complete circuit when pressurized. Now I know for sure why it was bypassed. All the parts will arrive in a few days, just in time for 2 days of rain. I verified the alternator is marine grade. New water impeller on the way. Any other advice on what else to check in the meanwhile? Its been sitting around 5 years since i last had it running. Carb kit in hand. Thanks for the input.

 

[alldodge]

Looks like you have it, don't use the old gas

 

[Scott06]

New oil pressure to fuel pump switch ordered. It tested within resistance range but fails to complete circuit when pressurized. Now I know for sure why it was bypassed. All the parts will arrive in a few days, just in time for 2 days of rain. I verified the alternator is marine grade. New water impeller on the way. Any other advice on what else to check in the meanwhile? Its been sitting around 5 years since i last had it running. Carb kit in hand. Thanks for the input.

I would take a look at cap and rotor, they tend to get some green corrosion on the contacts. might look at the spark plugs if corroded from sitting

 

[Scott Danforth]

Any other advice on what else to check in the meanwhile? Its been sitting around 5 years since i last had it running. Carb kit in hand. Thanks for the input.

Any fuel that was in the tank will now be a brown sludge on the bottom that will need to be cleaned out

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

Project on hold. Flywheel sat in moist debris and rusted teeth so will need engine pull & flywheel swap. I switched focus over to a skeeter with 75hp 2 stroke outboard which has a new set of issues to contend with. Firing stopped and cant find any cdi test procedure. Thanks 4 all the advice on the mercruiser project.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Rusted teeth will cure themselves by cranking the motor

 

[alterego_k_mercruiser]

I wish it were that simple. I should have clarified, massive corrosion. Starter teeth cant keep contact with corroded flywheel teeth. Bad cavities. Apparently this crud had filtered down into the housing & stayed wet for few years. Once the starter spun a few times & cleared out the crud & corrosion on teeth, it started free spinning, at least a 6" -10" area of bad teeth. I'd considered welding & filing but i'm just gonq wait & do it right without wrecking my body trying 2 rig a bandaid. Project 4 another day.

 

[Bondo]

I wish it were that simple. I should have clarified, massive corrosion. Starter teeth cant keep contact with corroded flywheel teeth. Bad cavities. Apparently this crud had filtered down into the housing & stayed wet for few years. Once the starter spun a few times & cleared out the crud & corrosion on teeth, it started free spinning, at least a 6" -10" area of bad teeth. I'd considered welding & filing but i'm just gonq wait & do it right without wrecking my body trying 2 rig a bandaid. Project 4 another day.

Ayuh,..... In that case, you need a new ring gear, not the whole flywheel,....
A relatively cheap fix,....