Re: '94 Force 90 Throttle Linkage
Whoever did the rebuild should have adjusted the linkage since with the exception of the control cables it is all connected to the block. It is not necessary for the cables to be connected to properly adjust carb opening.
For the present, I am going to ignore your comment about WOT in reverse and just explain how to set the linkage. later I will address that statement.
First, with the engine not running, put the control handle all the way forward in gear (full throttle.) Now check the timing tower on the block. The plastic stop on the cast arm should now contact the block, indicating that the tower and timing is now at WOT position.
If the plastic tab does not contact the block, then the throttle cable is not adjusted correctly. It is adjusted by detaching the cylindrical cable mount and screwing it forward or backward on the threaded part of the cable.
If it does contact the block, then the cable is ok and it is time to adjust the link to the lower carb. Set the control handle back in the neutral position. NOW: snap the ball joint off the tower attachment. Do not snap it off the throttle cam because the cam is thin metal and the ball joint is rather tight. You run the risk of bending the cam if you detatch it there. Loosen the locknuts and adjust BOTH ends evenly until the two lines or single line--whichever your cam has--are touching the nthrottle roller at the center of it. If the cam does not tough the roller in neutral, then loosen the nut on the roller. The roller is on an eccentric screw and if you turn this screw, the roller will move in or out. Adjust it so that it just touches the cam in neutral. Now, you must remove the air box over the front of the carbs for this next step.Put the control in wide open throttle and look into the bottom carb to see if the butterfly is horizontal or nearly so. If it is not horizontal, you must then adjust the two ball ends again to make it so. Now check the other two carbs to see that they are horizontal also. If they are not, you must adjust the carb tie bar to make them so. This is done by detatching one ball end of the linl and swinging the cam away from the bottom carb roller. this lets the bottom carb close fully. Now loosen the screws on the carb tie bar and let all three carbs click fully closed. Now tighten the tie bar screws. reattach the ball end.
Now. the linkage is properly set and all three carbs are set to open equally. Be aware that at normal idle, the lines on the throttle cam will usually not be centered on the carb roller.
NOW: Back to the WOT in reverse: At the bottom of the timing tower is a "funny" shaped casting. This piece contacts the neutral interlock tab below the manifold, on the shift lever to prevent over-revving the engine in neutral. IF-- If the shift cable is improperly set, the neutral interlock tab will not be centered and, for example, it will contact the funny shaped piece, not allowing the throttle to open, even in forward gear. Yet, because it is not centered, you will be able to shift the engine into reverse and apply full throttle. AT neutral, the funny shaped piece and the interlock tab should be at the same position separated only by about 1/16 inch. This gap allows you to rev the engine to about 1500 RPM in neutral. If the two tabs are not at the same level, adjust the shift cable until they are.
NOW: ASSUME that nothing else was set properly. Since it takes so long to explain, I STRONGLY recommend that you buy a manual and
1. Set the idle mixture on the carbs
2. Set the timing advance.
I STRONGLY recommend that you do not run the engine except for testing and adjusting until you have done this.
There are numerous posts in here on how to do both. use the search feature to look some up.
You have me curious: PA is a big state. From where did you ship the engine and to where in PA did you ship it? How much did it cost to ship?
