dixieoutlaw
Recruit
Thread starter- Joined
- Jun 10, 2007
- Messages
- 2
Have a 94 Bayliner with Force 120HP outboard. The engine has the Thunderbolt ignition. Last season first few times out engine ran fine. Took boat out in fall and engine would not crank. Used truck to jump engine and it cranked ran for about 10 minutes and then I shut it down. Boat would then crank intermittently but would not run at idle. Eventually, boat would not crank at all. Checked for spark and had no spark on any cylinder. Man-over-board (lanyard) in run position. Ordered a Secor manual (first mistake) to help with diagnostics. Nothing resolved. These seaon started work on boat again. At present, we have checked the kill wire by disconnecting the blue/yellow wire from the switchbox. Have checked for fire by disconnecting the rectifer. Ran voltage check on battery and checked grounds. Only voltage related issue we may have found is that when checking the yellow/red wire that runs from starter solenoid to neutral switch to ignition switch we have only 10.4 volts DC. Have checked resistance on all stator coils (should mention this is a red CDI coil installed three seasons ago). The readings on the stator coils when checking the blue to blue white wire was 591 ohms and red to red/white wire was 30 ohms. We thought we had found the problem since these values did not match the values given in the SECOR manual for the OEM stator. Ordered a new CDI stator. It arrived with a note saying the resistance values were different than the values for the OEM stator. We checked the values for the new stator and they are blue to blue/white 556 ohms and red to red white 29 ohms or practically the same as the old stator. Did not install new stator. Think we are to the point of checking the output voltage but donot have a peak voltage meter. My question is can I use an amp clamp meter in lieu of the peak voltage meter? any suggestions on other check such as trigger and switch box would be welcome.