91 Four Winns 285 express winterizing question

estame6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2006
Messages
119
Hi all, does anyone suggest using muffs and running through anti-freeze till it comes out the exhaust? I have removed the thermostats so no need for a warm up. Any pointers please.
Many thanks.
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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17,620
Not the best approach, since the AF will probably come out the exhaust long before the concentration of AF in the engine block has reached a sufficient level. (it is not a sequential flow through the engine)

If you do run AF, then drain the block, recirc. pump and exhaust manifolds afterwards.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,802
The drain & back fill method is better even if you remove the thermostat…because…
You use less AF
No issue with the impeller wearing because it doesn’t pull in the AF fast enough
Your drain plugs get removed regularly so they won’t seize in place
Same with hoses, if never removed they can get really locked on by rust
I’ve been doing it that way 20 years and I feel it’s the best way.
For AF I use a mix of Sierra no tox AF & water, better than the -60 or -50 and cheaper than the -100…
 

estame6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2006
Messages
119
Thanks Guys, I like the drain and back fill method. I'm suggesting your saying to remove all the hoses from the thermostat housing, drain the block and drain the manifolds, replace the drain plugs. Pour a/f in the three hoses excluding the hose from the impeller. Having just replaced the impellers and housings is quick to just loosen the three bolts and let them drain.
Question; Under the thermostat the opening that must supply water down to the engine, does this fully drain when the block is drained?
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,802
Under the thermostat is the intake manifold, yes this drains when you remove both block drains AND the bottom end of the big hose at the front circulation water pump.
How I do it on a Cobra:
warm up engine, change oil & filter
run engine again, fog engine through carb
let engine cool off that water will be HOT.
then, remove the bottom end of the big hose at the circulation pump.
remove both block drains, poke the holes to make sure water comes out
remove the drain plugs in the exhaust manifolds, poke those holes too
remove the raw water intake hose at the thermostat housing, point it down in the bilge to drain
on the outdrive are 3 drains, 2 on the starboard side, one on the port side, you have to tilt the drive up to see all 3, remove all 3 and poke em to see if water comes out. Lower outdrive, that helps them drain. Usually water comes out of only the one on the port side, this drains the raw water intake hose/impeller housing area
after draining, coat threads with gasket sealer and replace the 3 plugs
OK after the engine & manifolds drain....
re-connect bottom end of big hose to circulation pump
put gasket sealer on the drain plugs for the block and exhaust manifolds, and replace the plugs.
for filling with AF:
disconnect the top end of the big hose from the circulation pump at the thermostat housing, then fill it with AF till it comes out the neck of the 'stat housing. Now the engine is filled, just reconnect the hose.
then, hold the raw water intake hose up and fill it with AF till it runs out the water intakes on the lower unit, then re-connect the hose; this pushes any residual water out of the hoses that go through the transom mount and PS cooler mounted back there.
Next disconnect the exhaust manifold feed hoses at the thermostat housing. Fill each one with AF till it runs out the exhaust housing on the bottom of the transom mount (you'll hear it). Then reconnect those hoses.
I use a mix of Sierra no tox AF and water and measure the mix with a refractometer. I don't think the -50 or -60 are good enough for climates that go down to or below zero in winter. For that you need -100.

I've been doing it this way for 20 years, never had a problem. DO NOT take short cuts, this way everything is drained and the inside of the engine and manifolds is protected from corrosion. Many in fresh water regions do not use AF, that's ok too if you are sure you drained it all. I am in the salt, I think the right AF helps.
antifreeze & refractometer.jpg
 
Last edited:

estame6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 21, 2006
Messages
119
Thanks so much for your help, all the years I've owned boats no one has the same winterizing technique. Better to be safe than sorry therefore really appreciated your input. Many thanks...
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,802
You’re welcome!
This is straight from the OMC owners manual…
 
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