90Hp torque spec

T/O

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
38
I have a Mercury 90ELPT CT 4S
Serial# 3B122193
It's a 2021 model and I'm going to do my first service on it. I picked up the engine oil/filter/gear oil/replacement seals and fuel filter. This is my first outboard and wondering if anyone knows torque specs for the engine oil drain fitting and the gear oil fill plug?
Another question? The gear oil vent plug is just a flat head screw slot if I remember correctly, do you just tighten it as best you can? Or do some of you actually have a torque screwdriver?
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,582
If nobody hits on this I'll tell you what I do. When I buy something new it seems to be torqued to the published spec that the bolt/nut can handle without ripping the threads out or snapping off. I even had an oil filter on my Generac standby generator fail at the seam because it was torqued too tight.

There are numerous places on the www where you can pull up torque specs based upon materials, dimensions, threads, wet or dry and all that. The only time I use a torque wrench is for head bolts to ensure that I get even distribution. Otherwise I use common sense in analyzing the application, size and material, wet or dry, and what feels right.

I use a pneumatic impact wrench (have several sizes in 3/8-3/4" drives) and I watch the twisting action of the socket. It will run down fast then upon making contact, it will slow until it finally stops. Once stopped I let it whack 3 or 4 times and stop....a flywheel nut may get 5 or 6 whacks.

On smaller hardware, wrenches are smaller and that helps you to control your hand pressure. I always use an X pattern on plates and wide surfaces with multiple hardware and make 2 or 3 passes before final snug. If I am worried about it not being tight enough, I may get out a 4 oz. hammer and give the end of the wrench a couple of whacks after I have put the final hand pressure on the wrench.

Over the years, I haven't broken a bolt since working on a Henry J head back in the early '60's and never had something leak or come loose. The last time I stripped a thread was back in the 50's (teaching myself to be a mechanic) stripping out a spark plug on a 1955 Scott Atwater 10 hp outboard...never did that again..... On spark plugs, with a new gasket, I finger tighten, wrench down feeling the gasket compress and when it is fully compressed and I feel the resistance rise, moderate whoopie on the wrench and that's that.

On aluminum outboards, corrosion is usually a problem and especially on the engine block, its easy to break bolts. I find a good penetrating oil helps and I use impact over brute force to back out stubborn bolts...impact defined as the wrench and the 4 oz hammer, and back and forth motion till it breaks loose and you can back it out by hand. Once out and ready to reassemble, run a tap in the block to clean out the threads and use a thread locker...I prefer blue since I never know when I will be back.

Hope this helps. Had nothing else to do this AM, being 17 years retired and had nothing else to do besides trying to help folks.
 
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merc850

Commander
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
2,034
I use a large screwdriver that fits the screw tightly and tighten it hand tight, new washers (fiber ones don't use o-rings) make sure it won't leak.
 

T/O

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
38
Just an update
The owners manual did have the torque spec for the oil drain plug it's 11lbs but it was to low for my torque wrench so I just snugged it down tight, both the gear oil drain and breather plugs were a slotted screw driver setup so used new washers and tightened it up with a large screwdriver. The only problem I had was getting the oil filter off, it was so tight from the factory I couldn't get it off by hand, had to use channel locks.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,582
I find that manufacturers torque their filters and when you look at the instructions on the side of the filter.....3/4 turn after the seal touches the engine's surface, they were way too tight. I had a standby generator that had the case to mounting flange start leaking as a result of over tightening at the factory. On filter removal, I have a half a dozen different filter wrenches/types and at times I have driven a large screwdriver through the end of the filter to get it off.
 
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