9.9 force flooding problem solved, new problem now.

[tjcrabtree]

I had a previous thread about the flooding here: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=472653

Problem solved....sorta. I had flooded the engine initally when first trying to start it, but flooding wasn't the primary problem. The real problem was the primer, not the squeeze bulb but the engine primer. The original was completely eviscerated and was replaced. What I didn't know was apparently the original had a hole in it to allow air flow. This is just an assumption based on the fact that the engine wouldn't run until a poked a hole in the new one. Can anyone confirm that the factory primer is ported and that the hose should have vacuum?

New problem: Motor was running great in a trash can full of water. I checked to see in the squeeze bulb was still firm and gave in a pump or two because it had softened a bit. Upon doing so the motor began to idle rough and sputter, and would eventually stall out unless I gave it some more throttle. Any ideas what happened? I would guess the fuel pump diaphragm, but that's just based on what I've read here, I know pretty much nothing about working on these engines.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 9.9 force flooding problem solved, new problem now.

Serial# Pics.
The squeezie isin't really supposed to stay hard after you start.The fuel pump is a simple outfit that if the reeds are bent it won't operate right.
Is compression/spark OK? The pump won't operate right with low comp on one cylinder.
Pumping the ball and stalling sounds like the needle/seat.Or the diaphram in the pump.J

 

[tjcrabtree]

Re: 9.9 force flooding problem solved, new problem now.

Serial # is 225.xxxx1996 making it a 1994 model from what I've ascertained. Gamefisher, re-badged force.

I installed the new diaphragm then was unable to get it started again. I think I just flooded it but it started raining and I had to hang it up for the day. I will take another stab at it today and post my results. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[tjcrabtree]

Re: 9.9 force flooding problem solved, new problem now.

Serial# Pics.
The squeezie isin't really supposed to stay hard after you start.The fuel pump is a simple outfit that if the reeds are bent it won't operate right.
Is compression/spark OK? The pump won't operate right with low comp on one cylinder.
Pumping the ball and stalling sounds like the needle/seat.Or the diaphram in the pump.J

225.581996
0E035520

Figured out the problem. It stalling when I pumped the bulb was just a coincidence. Here's what happend. Apparently the #1 coil wire was riding against the smooth part of the flywheel, and after a few minutes it ate its way down through the insulation. It barely exposed just a speck of metal but that's all it took. I thought I could hear the tell tale pop of arching, the same sound the spark plug makes when you check for spark, and sure enough when I looked up under the flywheel while it was running I could see that with about every other cycle it was arching. I pulled the wire from the plug and with no change. Replaced it and pulled the other one and it quit.

Why doesn't electrical tape over the problem area fix this? I read in the parts viewer notes "cut wire as required" referring to the coil wire. Do I have to buy a whole new coil now or is there a way to fix this, as the coil itself is still producing a strong spark, it's just not traveling down through to the plug?