9.9 Evinrude - Hard Start when warm , but starts fine when cold

[909]

Starts when cold.
Hard to start when warm.

I have replaced the following:

CDI
Coils
Ignition Wire
Everything under the flywheel
Thermostat
Sparkplugs
Impeller
Gear oil

Things that have helped:

Ultrasonically cleaned the carb twice.
Increasing the idle RPM
Adjusting the low idle jet.
Adjusting the float.

The components I've replaced were taken off a known working outboard.
The components that I thought were bad were taken off the original outboard, put on the known working outboard for testing.
Every component worked perfectly fine.

It was recommended that I check the crankshaft seals and replace them.
I get beautiful strong spark.



What's the procedure to set the sync - throttle cable and linkages ?

What else can cause this outboard to be so stubborn to start ?

 

[909]

bump

 

[flyingscott]

What do you consider a warm start? Are you using the throttle? The choke?

 

[909]

Thanks for your reply Flyingscott.
I'll run it WOT for a good amount of time. Then kill it.

When warm starting, I'll increase the throttle a little by little with no noticeable difference. I'll resort to Choke if it doesn't respond to anything else, and often doesn't make a difference.

 

[flyingscott]

Turn the throttle as far as it will go right away. Don't adjust it little by little. If your motor is sitting for more than 10 minutes you may need to cold start it.

 

[909]

Great suggestion.

I have tried cold starting when warm. Few squeezes til firm, full choke, full throttle. It's definitely fuel related since I've ruled out everything else.

Either its flooding, or too lean. Eventually after a million pulls ... it eventually always starts (sometimes sooner than later) . It's just always hard to start when warm. It will never not start and leave me stranded.

 

[flyingscott]

Try opening the low speed screw another 1/4 turn

 

[909]

Thanks ! I'll try that.

You suspect it's lean. My hunch is that the fuel pump needs a rebuild (at least a new diaphragm), or there's a leak somewhere between the carb line down to the fuel connector on the outboard. I've eliminated the tank and hose because they work on identical outboards.

 

[flyingscott]

The fuel pump has no effect on starting the motor uses what is in the carb bowl already. If the fuel ball pumps up firm probably do not have a leak in the line.

 

[909]

That makes sense.

The ball pumps firm, confirmed.

That leaves the problem the in the carb. Would a bad gasket (carb to block) cause this as well

 

[flyingscott]

Gotta ask How hard is it to turn the low speed Screw?

 

[909]

To be honest I never thought to check.

Good idea !

 

[racerone]

Do a spark test when motor fails to start when warmed up.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or better, yes or no ?

 

[909]

I checked compression when warm. It's the exact same.

I'll check the spark when warm and update . Thanks

The current CDI , Coils and wires are from an identical outboard with zero issues.

 

[racerone]

Testing is the path forward.

 

[909]

This outboard is really testing my patience.

If there is no spark when warm, what's the cause.

 

[Crosbyman]

heat causes expansion causing breaks or shorts
....start with condensers if never replaced ..
they really need to be tested with high voltages not frequently available unless you buy or build a condenser test box

progess to more $$ parts like ignition coils or try to protect them from HEAT by adding a spacers behind them.. ensure proper grounding is maintained where needed. (no cost to try)

 

[racerone]

?????----There are no condensers on this motor !!!

 

[Crosbyman]

?????----There are no condensers on this motor !!!

well having a model # will help pick a diagram in the mean time ...cooling suspect parts to restore sparks may help. shooting coolant spray on the ignition coils could help pinpoint problem components & restore ignition

racerone... how about sharing that model #

 

[racerone]

That motor is a 1998 model.-----These motors last used condensers in 1976 !!