89' 90 H.P. 3 Cylinder 2 Stroke Battery Charging Issue

[Dcloots]

I have a Mariner 90 H.P. 3 cylinder 2 stroke. Serial Number 0C124302. Having battery charging issues. Currently there is a terminal block pc 43 installed vice Rectifier pc 42 of the engine wiring schematic that I have found on line. The voltage regulator part number is 8M0006034. There is a Stator installed with part no. 398-832075-A17. Also present is adapter 8M0021546 with no red wire connected to the switch box. Red stud at switchbox is capped. Stator looks like it is in great shape. Popped the flywheel off and inspected the magnets and there are no burn marks or wear on the stator. My question is what type of voltage regulator do I have and should I have a terminal block or a rectifier installed wehre the present terminal block is installed? How will I know which component is the issue. Nothing is clear to me with what I have read and seen. Need help. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Texasmark]

If you have a black 9 amp stator you don't need a regulator/rectifier module. If you have a Red 16 amp stator, you need a regulator/rectifier module. The junction box was eliminated in later model engines like my 2002 90 triple with the red 16 amp stator with the regulator/rectifier and likewise on my 2002 115 2+2. Simplifying the design, the input terminal on the starting solenoid is used as the 12v distribution point, besides being there to operate the starter when the key is in the start position.

If you have no luck looking up parts on iboats, ebay is real good about telling you what engines their parts fit and they come with a guaranteed satisfaction from ebay, not the seller per se.

 

[Dcloots]

If you have a black 9 amp stator you don't need a regulator/rectifier module. If you have a Red 16 amp stator, you need a regulator/rectifier module. The junction box was eliminated in later model engines like my 2002 90 triple with the red 16 amp stator with the regulator/rectifier and likewise on my 2002 115 2+2. Simplifying the design, the input terminal on the starting solenoid is used as the 12v distribution point, besides being there to operate the starter when the key is in the start position.

If you have no luck looking up parts on iboats, ebay is real good about telling you what engines their parts fit and they come with a guaranteed satisfaction from ebay, not the seller per se.

Thanks for the response. I am new at outboard repair so still learning and learning curve is steep. I have the Mercury Red sealed stator. (Part no. 832075-A17) I have a voltage regulator mounted on the top front of the engine (6 wires). Stator leads run to a “Gray” terminal block which was a replacement part for the black three pronged “rectifier” with offset prongs. Wondering if I need to go back to the black three prong offset “rectifier”. Or can I go with a combined voltage regulator / rectifier and use the “gray” terminal block as a connection point.

 

[QBhoy]

Hi. Likely you have good advice above for sure. But me being me…always looking for the simple answer perhaps.
When you say you are having issues charging the battery…under what conditions ? You’ll often get next to nothing of a charge at low rpms. Just enough to keep the engine running. It’s higher up the rpms, these things will put out any sort of charge. Even at that…it’s not comparable to a car/boat with an alternator for sure. You’ll likely be aware anyway. Just thought I’d throw it in there.

 

[Dcloots]

I bought the boat last year. Installed two new batteries and used the boat three times without issue until the third outing. After the third time on the water at the dock I had no power to trim the motor up for trailer transport. Thought I had a tilt motor issue but when I got home I couldn’t start the engine to flush due to batteries being dead. This is when the investigation started. I don’t think the battery charging system has ever worked since I have owned the boat and probably didn’t work for the guy who only owned it for one year.

 

[Texasmark]

Quoting from memory as my manuals are out in the shop, the rectifier/regulator uses AC power inputs from the stator's 2 yellow leads, both isolated from ground...battery -.
The wires are:
Yellow pair are AC input
Grey is tach signal
Black is ground
Large diameter red is regulated 12v output to the 12v terminal on the starter solenoid...3/8" copper terminal.
Smaller red wire(s) are to run the reg/rect and is/are 12v input(s).

Manual rating on performance is via current output vs RPMs. It starts measurements at 1k and current vs RPM increases to max at rated RPM max. Voltage will be at/barely above battery voltage at idle and increase as battery fills with energy up to 14.5V at WOT if the battery is fully charged while the engine is running. When the battery is left to sit over night battery voltage will stabilize around 13v at STP.

 

[wn6ngp]

Quoting from memory as my manuals are out in the shop, the rectifier/regulator uses AC power inputs from the stator's 2 yellow leads, both isolated from ground...battery -.
The wires are:
Yellow pair are AC input
Grey is tach signal
Black is ground
Large diameter red is regulated 12v output to the 12v terminal on the starter solenoid...3/8" copper terminal.
Smaller red wire(s) are to run the reg/rect and is/are 12v input(s).

Manual rating on performance is via current output vs RPMs. It starts measurements at 1k and current vs RPM increases to max at rated RPM max. Voltage will be at/barely above battery voltage at idle and increase as battery fills with energy up to 14.5V at WOT if the battery is fully charged while the engine is running. When the battery is left to sit over night battery voltage will stabilize around 13v at STP.

Can you determine if the stator is ok by measuring the AC output of the yellow wires? I would guess that you should see at least 10V AC RMS at high RPMs since it sounds like it is an ungrounded winding full wave bridge diode setup.

 

[Dcloots]

Can you determine if the stator is ok by measuring the AC output of the yellow wires? I would guess that you should see at least 10V AC RMS at high RPMs since it sounds like it is an ungrounded winding full wave bridge diode setup.

The AC output has been verified at 15 VAC from the stator

 

[Texasmark]

Can you determine if the stator is ok by measuring the AC output of the yellow wires? I would guess that you should see at least 10V AC RMS at high RPMs since it sounds like it is an ungrounded winding full wave bridge diode setup.

They aren't and it is.