87 Force 85hp Flywheel removal

[Unbalanced]

I have an 87 Force 85 horse engine that has a no spark issue. I OHM'ed my stator and found that I have 670 OHMs on one leg and 4000 ohms on another. I have a line on a replacement stator, but I can't get my flywheel off. The nut came off rather easy, but I've ruined my puller trying to get the flywheel off. I've soaked it in Liquid Wrench and even heated it up with a torch, but it's not budging. I'm going to buy a new gear puller and try again. Any tips?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 87 Force 85hp Flywheel removal

I'm assuming that you're using a puller that threads into the three small holes in the flywheel and one large center bolt that is tightened against the end of the crankshaft like this one.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc7403.html

Once you get the three smaller bolts evenly tightened ( it's important to get them even in height so they all pull evenly), start tightening the larger center bolt against the end of the crankshaft. Get it tightened good and firm. Heat the center of the flywheel. Crank on the larger center bolt once more. Get it really tight. Now take a hammer and whack straight down on the center bolt. Might take a couple of hits, but it should loosen the flywheel up.

 

[john from md]

Re: 87 Force 85hp Flywheel removal

+1 on what PNW told you. I will add, don't buy a puller from Harbor Freight or Pep Boys. Buy a good one from Snap On or Mac tools as they are made of better steel and are tempered properly.

The whack on the shaft after all the bolts are pre loaded usually does the trick.

John

 

[Unbalanced]

Re: 87 Force 85hp Flywheel removal

Well I got the flywheel off.

The thing fought me all the way off. Every 1/32 of an inch. I used a good quality puller + heat + a hammer + a very large pry bar.

The crank shaft and flywheel were fused together. The surfaces were very rusted/corroded. It'll take some time with a dremel to clean it up before I re-install it.

FYI, I found the root of my stator failure (I think). There was one loose/broken a/c connection at the regulator.

I'm hoping this is the cause of my hard starting/stalling at idle. (low battery voltage / no/weak spark on #3 cyl)
I've already re-built the carbs with new needles and gaskets. Set the floats and idle mixture screws. Cleaned the puddle drain (VERY dirty/clogged). Installed new reeds and all new gaskets. WHEW....

 

[john from md]

Re: 87 Force 85hp Flywheel removal

The broken stator lead at the regulator would have caused you to run down your battery and this engine won't run well without good voltage. It may have also been making and breaking which would cause the system to act weird.

Good find, too bad you had to bust your back to find it.

John

 

[223hpyhooker]

I know this is a old thread, but i recently aquired a boat with a 1989 85hp force engine and i dont know what size the 3 little holes on the flywheel are. I have a puller, but the bolts are too big. I am hoping to find the thread size and pitch so i can get some grade 8's and goto town trying to remove what a boat mechanic couldnt. At least it doesnt look damaged.

 

[Jiggz]

If you are referring to the three holes on the flywheel used for pulling, it is 1/4" X 20 TPI. You might want to get one 1/4" X 20 TPI bolt first just to make sure.

 

[223hpyhooker]

If you are referring to the three holes on the flywheel used for pulling, it is 1/4" X 20 TPI. You might want to get one 1/4" X 20 TPI bolt first just to make sure.

Thank you so much i bet that’s it. A metric m8 hand tightens a turn or so and that’s close to the same diameter I’m sure. Crazy you would think larger bolts would have been used with as hard to get off these things are.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 1/4X20 will probably strip out on the first attempt.
If you want to continue this way, I'd drill and tap a 5/16"hole.
Myself, I use a BIG 3 jaw puller and a 3 pound hammer.
Harbor Freight puller kit with 3 pullers. The big'n hook it up, undo the nut and reinstall it but only 2-3 turns so the fly wheel doesn't go flying when it releases.
Hook up the puller and tighten it with an impact wrench and get it as tight as you can, then 3# hammer on the puller, make sure you hit it straight on.
The wheel should loosen and pop off.
Some don't come easy and a small propane torch is needed.
SAFETY!!!! glasses, gloves and keep your fingers away as you use the hammer.

I had on from a 87/85 Force that no matter what I did wouldn't come off.
Ended cutting it off with a torch.
BE CAREFUL!!!! My boss was demonstrating the 3jaw method and ended up with 14 stiches in his hand.

 

[racerone]

Do not use a 3 jaw puller.-----Need to understand the concept of why locking tapers are used on outboard flywheels.

 

[The Force power]

Do not use a 3 jaw puller.-----Need to understand the concept of why locking tapers are used on outboard flywheels.

It may not be the best thing for the flywheel but if its not working the conventional way.
I ended up using a 2 jaw & it worked without any damage

 

[Redbarron%%]

Whatever you do be sure to go and buy some really good bolts, clean the threads with a tap and seat them all the way in.
Cheap harbor freight pullers are OK --- But the cheap bolts that come with them are NOT OK.
A little heat and some light rapping might help.
Try to avoid hammering down on the big puller bolt as you will be transferring the blows directly to the ball bearings in the main crankshaft and the balls will dent the races!

 

[The Force power]

Whatever you do be sure to go and buy some really good bolts, clean the threads with a tap and seat them all the way in.
Cheap harbor freight pullers are OK --- But the cheap bolts that come with them are NOT OK.
A little heat and some light rapping might help.
Try to avoid hammering down on the big puller bolt as you will be transferring the blows directly to the ball bearings in the main crankshaft and the balls will dent the races!

I had a cheap puller bought good bolts and I bent the puller bracket
the only way mine came off is with the claw

 

[223hpyhooker]

Thanks guys I appreciate all the help. So I was able to get it off with grade 8 bolts the factory 1/4-20. I used knock er loose penetrating oil and soaked it over night.I kept the puller completely flat with the flywheel which put equal pressure on every bolt which is needed and I went half turn at a time after feeling tension then tapped with a 3 pound hammer and repeat. There was a initial pop, but the flywheel was only loose about 1:4 inch so I had to slowly walk it out while using penetrating oil. The issue was the woodruff key was rusted solid to the flywheel. Now the stator is rusty and not in the best shape so time to order one of these.

Does anyone know how to tell if the flywheel magnet is good or a way to test it. The sides seem brittle, but the part that faces the stator seems solid, just a few little worn grains that I can feel to the touch.

 

[Jiggz]

Thanks guys I appreciate all the help. So I was able to get it off with grade 8 bolts the factory 1/4-20. I used knock er loose penetrating oil and soaked it over night.I kept the puller completely flat with the flywheel which put equal pressure on every bolt which is needed and I went half turn at a time after feeling tension then tapped with a 3 pound hammer and repeat. There was a initial pop, but the flywheel was only loose about 1:4 inch so I had to slowly walk it out while using penetrating oil. The issue was the woodruff key was rusted solid to the flywheel. Now the stator is rusty and not in the best shape so time to order one of these.

Does anyone know how to tell if the flywheel magnet is good or a way to test it. The sides seem brittle, but the part that faces the stator seems solid, just a few little worn grains that I can feel to the touch.

And the use of a balancer puller with 1/4"X20 grade 5 or 8 bolts should always be your first attempt. And the 2nd attempt should be with enlarged 5/16 X 18 grade 8 and lastly should be the two or three claw bearing puller. Glad you made it through the first attempt.