86 18' Starcraft SFM

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DLNorth

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May 26, 2016
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And it is only a 60 hp, take it easy on acceleration and you'll likely be fine. (it's not like you have a 135 or more hanging on the back)

But, that is a real nice boat, and a great start for a project. Keep the pics coming so we can follow along.

Dan
 

MD28

Petty Officer 1st Class
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So it begins! I took out the back to back seat on starboard side. Also a starboard side panel. The panels and flap that cover up the bottom of the splashwell. Then went to the bow.
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MD28

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Some more
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I had trouble finding some screws that were buried in the carpet. That is how they attached everything it seems. all the fasteners are showing, which makes my life easy.

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The subfloor in the bow is not so good.:facepalm:
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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That's some rotten decking right there. Keep pushing on with the tear down and clean up, all the fun stuff is yet to come!
 

MD28

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Got back at it tonight. Took out the livewell and remaining deck and carpet from the bow
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Then removed port console and windsheild and such. You will see where the green carpet starts how the PO put in maybe 3/8 ply over the original deck.:facepalm:

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Next up is the important stuff that makes the boat run. Kinda makes me nervous to start pulling wires and controls apart.
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Disconnect the control cables/wires from the motor end and pull them through in one piece, don't take the controls apart to remove cables and wires.
 

MD28

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Thanks again for the sound advise Waterman! I would be up a creek without it. I was planning on starting on the console tomorrow morning and then the control. Should be interesting.
 

GA_Boater

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Ditto on Watermann's advice. Disconnect the cables and harness from the motor and leave them attached to the remote. Life will be much easier when you start to put her back together.
 

MD28

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So i have all the wires disconnected except for the VRO. It has no easy way to disconnect from the engine so im wondering if i should cut it and repair with butt end connectors later. Would this be acceptable for this system?
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MD28

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Took out the other console too after labeling with tape and a sharpey. Hopefully i can get it all back together when the time comes!

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Whoa what a mess that boat was in, worse than many I see 15 - 20 years older. They didn't give much thought keeping her covered up and out of the elements.

I would cut the vro wires, put a butt splice on the ends of the wires and label them.
 

BMerr509

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 28, 2016
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MD- you've got a beauty man! I'll follow along and see how you set up your fishing rig, as i'm doing the same with my Offshore! Good luck and post any questions as the folks here are a life saver :)
 

knezzer

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214
Nice looking boat! I hope mine isn't as gross as yours was underneath the floor.
 

MD28

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So this week I was out of town working in Chicago so I have had no time to work on the boat. I am back now but wont be able to hit it again until tomorrow and Saturday. Here are a few pics of the things I face with the stern. The PO used an old cutting board to attach the transom. While he did use 5200 I think, he also put in a few unnecessary holes when he realized he cant just zip a screw in where he wanted it because there is no transom wood down there.So lots of extra holes to patch. Im thinking primarily that I should jb them, or stainless bolts and 5200 if someone has objections to JB for hole filling.
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Next is a PO dent on the very bottom that needs to be addresed. Can I pound that out with a mallet or something?
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MD28

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nd on a side note and maybe even a self thread hijack, my dad just went from Michigan to Long Island, NY to get this.
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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For holes I've become very fond of JB water weld in the stick, make a wad of it, press into the hole and create a mushroom on the inside. I suggest you clean the area well and then wipe down with a solvent before filling the holes. Once cured the JB ww sands super nice.

Uh no hammering on that seam dent, unfortunately it is what it is at this point, pounding will only make it worse in that location causing a leak potential to repair. After my third boat I've come to the conclusion that old tin will never be perfect once it's been dented, bashed or mauled. In that location it will be hardly noticeable once painted and everything else is going on back there on the transom. If someone besides you even notices it I would be surprised and there will be so many nice things to draw the eye too.
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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Next is a PO dent on the very bottom that needs to be addresed. Can I pound that out with a mallet or something?
image_zpstcnkcbxq.jpeg

I have that same dent... only mine looks like it was drug 200 yards down the highway. :facepalm:



+1 on what Agua said...leave it be.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Yeap that's the all too common fall off the trailer at the ramp scenario.
 

MD28

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So whats the trick for taking off the steering cable at the motor? Motor is dangling on the chainhoist for extra give, but i cant figure out how to undo it. Am i just dumb?
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MD28

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Todays progress. Made me a stand and put the motor on it. I started to take the transom and SW apart. I cant seem to get the splashwell apart. I think Ive removed all the rivets and screws holding it in. I think there is some heavy duty glue holding it all together. What do you all do at this point? Im thinking knife it but dont really want to do that if there is something else that can be done.
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