Re: '84 Merc 150 - how do I adjust timing?
Oh . your'e in the outboard capital of the world, Florda. If Chris will do it for $200 run with that. FWIW, Ive used both on several builds and his reeds are better than the Boysenns.
You need bottom guided 3.125" ( plus the oversize ) piston ported Mercury V6 flat top pistons. No deflectors on the loopers like the Merc V6. The WSM's Carson sells are top notch. So are Vertex. Don't use the forged Wiseco's even though you can often get them cheaper than the cast alternatives. They heat swell and lock up in the bore and the bore needs to be real loose to use them.
Yes, You MIGHT be able to get by with boring just a few holes but it is a 30 year old motor so plan on the worst when you open it up. Let your machinist tell you which ones need to be bored unless you have a bore gauge. Bores wear at a taper and carb'd blocks usually wear out the bores pretty evenly.
The block stripped of the front half and everything else will be about 50 lbs.
Oh . your'e in the outboard capital of the world, Florda. If Chris will do it for $200 run with that. FWIW, Ive used both on several builds and his reeds are better than the Boysenns.
You need bottom guided 3.125" ( plus the oversize ) piston ported Mercury V6 flat top pistons. No deflectors on the loopers like the Merc V6. The WSM's Carson sells are top notch. So are Vertex. Don't use the forged Wiseco's even though you can often get them cheaper than the cast alternatives. They heat swell and lock up in the bore and the bore needs to be real loose to use them.
Yes, You MIGHT be able to get by with boring just a few holes but it is a 30 year old motor so plan on the worst when you open it up. Let your machinist tell you which ones need to be bored unless you have a bore gauge. Bores wear at a taper and carb'd blocks usually wear out the bores pretty evenly.
The block stripped of the front half and everything else will be about 50 lbs.