84 Johnson 9.9

Arronh

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May 31, 2019
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Hello. When I checked the gear oil for water when winterizing this year, I noticed it seemed a bit milky compared to my merc 115. Are there any instructions, links, or videos available on how to trouble shoot the water issue?

Also, any issues with where there's water coming out in this video?

Thanks

 

racerone

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A 36 year old motor.----Time to install a seal kit.----Make sure you replace the o-ring seal on the shift rod.-----Water leaks appear normal to me.
 

Arronh

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Hello. Looks like my motor is actually an 83. I’ve been unable to find a seal kit and the o-ring you mentioned. Any suggestions on where I can find it?
 

racerone

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These lower units are the same year to year.----Look for a seal kit for an 85 listing.---Not there ----try 87.---You get the idea.
 

Arronh

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Hello. Where can I find a detent tool for holding the balls and spring in while I insert the prop shaft? Thanks!
 

Arronh

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Hello. Where can I find a detent tool for holding the balls and spring in while I insert the prop shaft? Thanks!
Actually, I was able to make a detent tool and got the seals changed this weekend.

Next thing I’m wondering about is charging the batter while it’s running. When I hook up the multimeter and start it up, there’s no change in the reading. I figure if it’s charging the battery, there reading would jump a bit higher while running. Is this system designed to charge the battery? Any ideas where I can find a wiring diagram? Thanks
 

racerone

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The standard model did not charge a battery.-----Battery charging was optional kit.----What is your motor model # here ?
 

Arronh

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It would be great if it wasn’t designed to charge a battery and there’s nothing to fix
 

oldboat1

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electric start models came with a charging system -- look for a triangular device on the right rear of the powerhead (rectifier). You won't see charging below about 2000 rpm, and is only four or five amps max. Test your motor in a barrel, with water about half way up the leg. After running, drain a small amount out of the gearcase (large plug), and look for any water. Muddy or creme color means water.

Can't do much testing on muffs.
 

racerone

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The model # posted for the 1983 model 9.9 in post #8 was not electric start.
 

Arronh

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Ok. the pic of the model and serial number plate is accurate from the outboard. I will keep an eye on it at higher rpms once I get get it in a barrel as the weather warms up. If it has a charging system that doesn’t work and I disconnect the battery, would the motor still run?

ive been replacing the lower seals. They’ve all been fairly straightforward. the seal/grommet/o-ring(#42 in the pic) for the shift rod seems much more difficult and harder to get off. This might seem obscure, but is there a way to get it changed without disassembling a ton of components? The issue seems to be that I need the shift rod removed before the grommet will go in.




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racerone

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These motors do not need a battery to make spark !!----Post some pictures of the powerhead.-----It did not leave the factory with a charging system.----But a charging system was optional and could be installed at any time !!
 

Arronh

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Here are the pics.
 

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racerone

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If we go by the identification plate then this motor has had electric start and battery charging installed at a later date.----Identification plate ( 1983 ) is original I believe.----An electric model would have been J10ECTR
 

Arronh

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Great. So it should have charging at higher rpms. I’ll try check when the water opens.

Also I took a quick video for help on another couple questions. Throttle and shift rod grommet link
Thanks for the help. Not sure if all these topics should be on new threads.
 

Arronh

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I was searching around on the internet and found other ppl having the grommet question. I believe I saw racerone as a user responding to the topic on a different website many years back. Wish I had saved the page.
 
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