800 Stringer Trim System Troubleshooting,

[theNailer]

Hey all, and thanks for looking.
We have an '83 SRV 260 with the 5.7 Stringer I/O. One thing I've noticed is that there is a leak somewhere inside the Trim Adjustment system. There is no fluid escaping or making a mess. It is an internal bypass type of thing. The Trim can be adjusted to where we want it, and about 15ish minutes later the front of the engine is sitting right down flat on the feet.

Now, It is a relatively small "hydraulic system" and it should be relatively easy to troubleshoot,,, except for the fact that my infirmities prevent me from bending down hardly at all, and while doing so, for very little time at that.

The fact that these components are at the bottom of the engine only makes things worse for me, hence why I'm asking if anyone has any "words of wisdom" that creates the least mess. I say this, because any mess/oil that I DO create, will have to be cleaned which is also even worser.

And no, I don't have the ability to "just get someone else to do it..." hence why I'm asking if anyone has any valid suggestions. As I see it, I either have a cylinder (or both?) that is bypassing through the piston seal, OR we have a valve in the pump/manifold that is leaking for one reason or another.

Another clue, possibly, is that when the Trim is adjusted down all the way (engine front 'up'), the very last "inch" or so has a VERY noticeable 'twist' to it, in that it seems either one cylinder is longer than the other, OR something else is amiss.

This system and engine/drive unit were installed by someone hired by the previous owner, and all I'm doing is trying to fix things and make them work properly again. I also have a fully complete "spare system" including the Trim system, complete Engine, and complete I/O.

I'm definitely of the type to "fix what is broken" as opposed to "throw parts at it until the problem goes away".... and that is primarily due to my (now) inability to "get down there" let alone for very long.

Being a gibbled Tradesman sucks. So any knowledge and/or experience with this system would be great! Thank you.

 

[froggy1150]

Check what's easy first.
1. On the pump is a manual bypass screw. Make sure it's closed.
2. Swap pump-cuz it's easy
3. Get 2 plugs for the brake line fitting and plug one side,lift motor and go do something and check back in an hour or 2.... will take longer to settle without running forces.if needed check other side.
there are only 3 things,right cylinder left cylinder and pump.
...... as long as the system isn't leaking on hull. If it leaks out that needs fixing first.

 

[froggy1150]

Throw some pics up....

 

[kenny nunez]

To get the “twist” out of the engine you will have to remove the lag bolts from the front mounts and with the rams extended or “bow down” position raise the engine with either a small jack under the engine or a hoist and measure the difference from the top of the stringer to the bottom of the mount and make up a shim.
You probably have an internal leak in one of the rams. This may be have been caused by the engine not being mounted right. The rams can be resealed as long as they are not scarred or deeply scratched on the seal surface. Should that be the cause there are services that can repair the damage with a stainless sleeve.

 

[theNailer]

I'd throw some pics up already, except it still has the winter heatshrink on it. We've had a massively devastating year so-far, one that started with family in the hospital on January 3rd. It has been downhill since.

Now, I bring this up, because we're either going to tear the cover off in September, and get out on the water for about a month, or maybe a few weeks, or screw-it, we'll just leave it till next spring.

I'm just trying to get ahead of the game here, as this truly was a post I'd planned on making this past March. Thank you for the input folks, and as soon as I can get at it, I'll look further into this. And take pics.

It really has been a bad year here, with 3 different folks in the hospital. One is still there, since April.