76 OMC 175 starting

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,536
Not yet. I just took the wire off the distributor and held it near the block while cranking the motor. No spark at all. Wouldn't servicing the points come after getting the coil to spark? I don't know if I mentioned this boat is new to me.
as mentioned above..... NO. its the opposite. the points are what open and close to energize the coil primary side, then allow the magnetic field to collapse allowing the secondary side to fire.

without servicing the points, is expecting a toaster to work when its not plugged in.

with points..... run a points file thru the contacts (or your wife's nail file). rough gap to 0.016, use a dwell meter to set dwell, then set timing.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2024
Messages
13
as mentioned above..... NO. its the opposite. the points are what open and close to energize the coil primary side, then allow the magnetic field to collapse allowing the secondary side to fire.

without servicing the points, is expecting a toaster to work when its not plugged in.

with points..... run a points file thru the contacts (or your wife's nail file). rough gap to 0.016, use a dwell meter to set dwell, then set timing.
Did that, it fired up for a second and backfired. Now it's flooded. Anyone know why my ground wire on the battery starts smoking a tiny bit when trying to start it for more than 10 seconds?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,536
Because your ground cable is corroded..... Replace it
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,953
Did that, it fired up for a second and backfired. Now it's flooded. Anyone know why my ground wire on the battery starts smoking a tiny bit when trying to start it for more than 10 seconds?
Ayuh,..... A dirty or corroded connection,....
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2024
Messages
13
It's not you, pictures are broke on the forum right now.

If you look on the engine block, can you find an ID number? It should be something like 990229A11. That doesn't look like the remote I'm used to seeing on an electric shift.

Does your stern drive look like this?
OMC-Electric-Shift.jpg
Question on this picture. Where do the earmuffs go on these? I have 2 holes to the upper right of where the 2 wires are shown on this...
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,290
Where the drive pivots up and down is there a garden hose cap screwed to the a side cover ? If so get a washing machine double female hose and connect it to the fitting and the garden hose. You can run the engine with no problem with that set up.
I hope by now you have not burned up the impeller in the drive from running without water.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2024
Messages
13
Where the drive pivots up and down is there a garden hose cap screwed to the a side cover ? If so get a washing machine double female hose and connect it to the fitting and the garden hose. You can run the engine with no problem with that set up.
I hope by now you have not burned up the impeller in the drive from running without water.
Oh yeah and I haven't run it without water, I had it submerged in a large tote that was full past the impeller inlet. It just doesn't seem like it runs good with that because the exhaust splashes the water all around so I was hoping I could do something different.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,290
There are some OMC flush out kits on E bay. I just checked it out. Get one and install it. I used to sell them for around $15.00 way back in the day when I had my shop.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,536
Running in a tote won't work as the raw water pump is just below the driveshaft above the split

The tote has to be big enough to submerge the whole drive, which requires the tote to be the size of the boat
 

Redrig

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 13, 2009
Messages
860
One other way to safely run a stringer on the hose . Do a quick google search on " prestone flush and fill kit" any auto parts store has it.

It's basically a T with a hose cap . You can install that T on the hose coming from the intermediate up to the thermostat housing . That hose will be on starboard side of your engine.

Then you are safely getting water to the engine and the drive , just like the pivot cap adapter.

Sorry - I'm trying to post pics of mine with this arrangement but struggling.

Good luck
 
Last edited:
Top