76 OMC 175 starting

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Does anybody know the correct starting sequence for and 1976 OMC 175? I can't find a manual that specifically lays that out.
 

Scott Danforth

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what are you looking for?

the method for getting the controls into neutral only?
or the method for priming the fuel system prior to cranking?

I believe (and @southkogs or @kenny nunez ) can correct me since its been about 40 years since I operated an OMC electric shift.. with main handle in neutral, lift the throttle lever to start (operates the throttle). do this twice, to set the choke and to prime the system. then turn the key.
 
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Jul 16, 2024
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what are you looking for?

the method for getting the controls into neutral only?
or the method for priming the fuel system prior to cranking?

I believe (and @southkogs or @kenny nunez ) can correct me since its been about 40 years since I operated an OMC electric shift.. with main handle in neutral, lift the throttle lever to start (operates the throttle). do this twice, to set the choke and to prime the system. then turn the key.
Yes, looking for priming the fuel system. The control only has the throttle lever and what looks like a button that pushes in and out that I believe puts it in neutral. The manuals that I have found don't seem to cover the type of control lever I have, which is strange. I can post of picture of it in a couple hours. I just want to make sure I am getting this right before doing much more troubleshooting.
 

Scott Danforth

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is the drive still an electric shift drive?
 

Scott Danforth

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in 49 years, the motor and drive could have been swapped.

need to confirm the controls and drive.

however on controls where there is a button to disengage shifting. (Normally with mechanical shifting)

While in the water or on muffs

Hold button in, pump handle 2 x, and leave about 1/4 throttle forward

crank motor. when it fires, pull back on throttle to get to about 1000 RPM

after a few minutes, pull back to neutral to allow shifting
 

southkogs

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Does your remote look like this:
s-l400.jpg

That's what I had with the electric shift. In which case, the start sequence for me, I would push the throttle forward and return it to neutral once or twice before starting. Then, the red lever on the back of the remote gets switched up (that's effectively giving you some throttle without engaging the drive), and then start the engine.

Once you're ready to maneuver, disengage the red lever on the back. The engine should idle down at that point.

I can't recall what RPM the "start" lever took the engine to ... somewhere just north of 1,100 I think.
 
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Does your remote look like this:
s-l400.jpg

That's what I had with the electric shift. In which case, the start sequence for me, I would push the throttle forward and return it to neutral once or twice before starting. Then, the red lever on the back of the remote gets switched up (that's effectively giving you some throttle without engaging the drive), and then start the engine.

Once you're ready to maneuver, disengage the red lever on the back. The engine should idle down at that point.

I can't recall what RPM the "start" lever took the engine to ... somewhere just north of 1,100 I think.

No, it looks almost identical to what is on this link.
https://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/6/9/2/4/webimg/537762186_tp.jpg
I can't seem to be able to load pictures on this forum yet. If you push the button in, it turns when you move the throttle lever.
 

southkogs

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It's not you, pictures are broke on the forum right now.

If you look on the engine block, can you find an ID number? It should be something like 990229A11. That doesn't look like the remote I'm used to seeing on an electric shift.

Does your stern drive look like this?
OMC-Electric-Shift.jpg
 

southkogs

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I should add that I think the shifter in your image is mechanical shift.
 

Redrig

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When it comes to shifting , do what you can to get the idle as low as possible on the carb and gently shift into gear don't jam the the throttle with those .

Same goes for tilt ! Gently tap the drive down , don't hold the switch down..... If you ram it down you WILL break stuff

I learned both those lessons the hard way with my electric shift and before I found this forum
 
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If I just replaced the fuel lines, filters, and rebuilt the carb, what's the best way to get everything filled with gas so it will start?
 

Scott Danforth

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Did you pre-fill the fuel filter?

Cranking about 10 seconds would do it if you pre-filled the filter

If not. Crank for 20 seconds, rest for a minute. Repeat as needed.
 
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Not yet. I just took the wire off the distributor and held it near the block while cranking the motor. No spark at all. Wouldn't servicing the points come after getting the coil to spark? I don't know if I mentioned this boat is new to me.
 

Bondo

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Not yet. I just took the wire off the distributor and held it near the block while cranking the motor. No spark at all. Wouldn't servicing the points come after getting the coil to spark? I don't know if I mentioned this boat is new to me.
Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,....... No, the points are what causes the coil to fire,......
 

kenny nunez

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If you decide to replace the points and condenser go to a NAPA store. They are probably one of the last places you can still get quality ignition parts. Stay away from the big box auto stores for parts like that. Your distributor is probably a Prestolite brand that OMC used on the Ford engines.
Gap the points .016 -017.
 
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