75hp is very slow

[bigbz28]

Thats a good point and also why I wanted to try the mech fuel pump again. However, I placed the filter on the outside of the engine so I could see it at all times ands it stays full even after a while of WOT. Should get the new pump kit next week and I'll try it out. I'm thinking that this whole time that I may have had a bad diaphragm, aside of the clogged carbs

 

[MickLovin]

More than likely.

 

[bigbz28]

Well, I finally got a chance to take her back out after replacing the fuel pump diaphragm (again). Ran great!! But I'm now encountering other problems. After shutting it off, fuel will continue to siphon through the carbs and drip out the throttle bore. So this tells me I need to take all the carbs back apart and readjust the floats back to being level with the bottom of the carb. Only other thing that happened was it stalled on me once but started right back and was fine. A little weird.

 

[Jiggz]

Siphoning? The only way this could happen is if the fuel tank is located higher than the carbs which as far as I know it isn't. And if the carb floats are not set right, the fuel should leak to the carb vent and not to the jets or throttle as the vent hole is strategically located lower than the jets upper ends. You did not mentioned it but have you gotten rid of the electric fuel pump? Because if it continues to operate after the engine shuts down, yes, fuel can leak in both the carb vent and jets if the floats are not set right meaning with the float in up position it still does not close the needle port.

However, if the electric fuel pump is already removed, then I cannot find any reason how a tank located lower than the carbs can be siphoned. Unless, what you described as fuel leaks from the carb's throttle only happens when you tilt the motor. If that is the case, that is perfectly normal.

 

[bigbz28]

No electric pump, tanks lower than engine, engine vertical. Gas will drip only from air inlet on carbs. I have to disconnect fuel lines and it will stop after a few minutes. If I had to stop at marina for a few minutes and didn't disconnect it the engine would be very hard to start and I had to disconnect line and after about 10 tries it would start. Runs pretty good once I get going

 

[Jiggz]

And this happens on all carbs?

 

[bigbz28]

I believe so, I didn't leave the fuel line hooked up but a second after I realized it. From the top one definitely, but it was dripping on the ones below so it made them all look like they could have been dripping. I've had this happen before on motorcycles and lawn mowers but they all had the tank above the carb. Also, when I tilted the engine a good amount of gas would come out from under the cawl, which it has never done, Although some of that was from where it was dripping and becoming residual.

 

[tater76]

Every Chrysler and Force engine I have ever owned has leaked a bit of fuel when in the full up position for trailering. Couple that with a bouncy road, and you WILL get drips from the carbs.

 

[bigbz28]

This is a whole lot more than a little. This is constant non-stop unless I disconnect the hose, and even after that it continues for a couple of minutes

 

[tater76]

Try closing the vent on the tank before you trailer it, makes a lot of difference. Then just the fuel left in the bowls will splash out a little.

 

[bigbz28]

There is no vent on the tank, it's part of the gas cap and cannot be closed. The problem isn't when I'm trailering it. The problem is when I want to stop for awhile. The fuel begins dripping out the carb while engine off (but not while running) and it's not just a drip every so often, it is very fast steady drip. It floods out the engine and makes it very hard to restart it.

 

[tater76]

Do you still have the electric pump connected? if so, how does it shut off when the engine is turned off? Lots of guys that have tried the electric pump idea overlook the fact that the pump keeps pumping when you shut down the motor.

 

[bigbz28]

No, the electric pump is disconnected. In fact, I didnt have this problem until I started using the mechanical one again. The only thing I changed was the float height. I made them stay open longer when the engine would only run WOT for about a minute until it would stall and after doing that it ran good. I reajusted them yet but I will put them back to the level that they are suppose to be at

 

[Jiggz]

First you need to identify if it is only the top carb that is leaking. then adjust the float on that one and see if that will remedy your fuel leak problems. Also note where it leaks from, vent or jets (throttle section of the so called throat)? Technically, if a needle port is closing, there is no other way for fuel to enter the bowl to overfill it.

 

[MickLovin]

Check your float level and also you may have junk in your needle and seat again, give them another clean out, set your floats to spec and make sure you blow compressed air through all orifices, it also doesn't hurt to use a welding tip cleaner.

 

[MickLovin]

Make sure you have all these parted on your carbie, especially the seat washer. Also wouldn't hurt to replace your bowl gaskets.

 

[MickLovin]

Check your parts, replace your bowl gaskets and nut washers either side of bowl, cheap enough. There is also a washer under your needle inside your seat from memory

 

[bigbz28]

Well, I set the float level back the way they are suppose to be and the dripping has for the most part stopped. However, I still have problems getting it started after shutting it off for a few minutes. If I had to stop to retrieve one of my kids that fell off the tube and shut it down while they get back on it takes about 5 tries to get it running again and then I have to wait about 10 seconds before I can put it in gear without it stalling. Once it's up and running it does great. Seems to me that gas is still filling the engine while it is off.

 

[Jiggz]

You would need to troubleshoot what is causing the hard starting despite the engine being hot or warm. Typically, with a warm engine it don't take but one try to get it re-started. It sounds like a fuel problem to me but to be sure use the spray bottle test and see if it will make the re-starting easier with one and no more than two tries. Another method is to re-prime the fuel system with the primer bulb until it is firm and see if that will help in the re-starting If it improves, it means when you shut off the motor, there is a good possibility the fuel lines are emptied back to the tank through the fuel pump. This is NOT NORMAL since there are check valves in the fuel pump to prevent this.

Note, if you have a clear fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb inlets, make sure it is not filled with air. If it is, bleed it off by loosening one of the hose clamps while priming the fuel system to solidly fill it with fuel.

 

[bigbz28]

Fuel filter stays full, primer bulb hard. Tried the spray bottle and it bogs down.