74 stringer electric shift rebuild

[froggy1150]

I am the proud new owner of a once used boat trailer. it came with a free 1974 21 ft rinell cuddy w/ 190 hp ford 302 and I was told it couldn't be restored..... challenge accepted! the owner was replacing the carpet and it sat..... 10 years. it was a salt water boat. so first I have read anything that seems to apply here, I have made it thru about 200 of 298 pages. purchased seloc manual-seems to suck. I have so far fixed all the electrical, rebuilt the carb, repaired the tilt motor and clutches and freed up the frozen steering shaft in the intermediate housing that was jammed pack with what seems to be salt rock (10 hr adventure). I have started the motor and runs well. I only ran it long enough to test the drive for a second. it shifts into fwd and rev fine with no horrible noise. so now I am in process of rebuilding upper and lower. I have both seal kits and water pump with both drive shafts. the upper has been a bear to get apart so far, everything has been frozen and I am down to the horizontal shaft w ball gear. its FROZE in the housing. any tricks to getting that out or just keep working it til it comes free? and it will come out with balls attached? all n all though this seems to be a really easy simple drive to work on (my first boat ever owning and working on). so any tips and tricks or things to watch out for and not learn the hard way while rebuilding this drive other than whats in the seloc manual?
​also I cannot find a single pic of what the cabin is suppose to look like to put back together. so if anyone can direct me ......

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard.

before putting too much into the boat, make some test drills into the stringers, motor mounts, etc. I bet you find rotten wood in your 44 year old boat. the boat is actually past its design life by 30 years

also, parts for the ford power plant are kind of pricey, and parts for the OMG's are getting harder co come by

get a factory manual. the original OMC manuals are still available from the official printing house (Ken Cook). seloc and hayes manuals are good for knee pads or to use in the out-house

link below

https://www.outboardbooks.com/

make sure you run the correct gear oil for your electric shift

 

[froggy1150]

The person who owned it before me hit something--- he thinks it was a whale. It tore the motor loose and ripped the boot. He had all the repairs done. New boot and stringers but still a good idea to test the wood. What size hole and about where in relation to the mounts?
As for the manuals..... why would you be on your knees in the bathroom........ praying your free boat don't sink
At least the paper can be put to use in there

 

[froggy1150]

In my extensive quest of knowledge I came across a video where a shop machines out the very end of the cap on the lower where the prop shaft exits the housing and then they add a 3rd seal to help keep out water. Is this a good recomendation/modification.

 

[Redrig]

honestly that seems like overkill to me , if you have the means then go for it .

but mine will hold 15 psi overnight with just the 2 seals there .

I think the uppers by the ball gears are the problem area , it seems like there are a lot of leaks up there , if you are going to get creative go for it right there.

 

[froggy1150]

That's what I thought but wasn't sure if that area was a problem. I will see if there is anything that can be tweaked at the ball gear seal

 

[froggy1150]

No Title

Is this the correct orientation for the impeller? The manual says to put in and turn clockwise. I installed in drive and wouldn't turn the correct way and then I second guessed myself and flipped it. By this time the lube got pushed everywhere and now it spins both ways...like it should but now I think I have to put it back. Also I did some picture hunting and I did find 2 different pics that show it the other way

 

[southkogs]

That looks correct.

 

[froggy1150]

Holidays are over and Putting this thing back together. As I marry the upper and lower I have greased the joint. Seals, bushing and the shafts/o ring. What I have is what seems to be a 3/16ths gap caused by an air pocket between shafts where the grease is. I can screw everything going together real easy and it all spins nicely. Also turns good too. I can energise either coil and rotate the whole drive from coupling to prop with 2 fingers. Is this "air spring" normal and should I just fly with it

 

[southkogs]

Is the swivel closed down properly between the upper and lower gear case? The shaft (I'm thinking of) grabs on the sides, so a small gap above it (don't know how you tell exactly) shouldn't be an issue.

 

[froggy1150]

So on the lower you have the swivel housing and a male splined input shaft with a machined flat surface for a o ring from the female splined output shaft that has a groove in for same o ring to sit. The directions say to lube these splined shafts with grease. The first time I assembled it is had to much grease and it would not compress and sit correctly. I removed excess grease until it does sit correctly when I push on it. Once I let go it Springs back up about 3/16 to 1/4 inch. I can Bolt it together and spin driveline and turn steering easily. I don' think this "air spring" between input and output shafts is an issue because it' not alot of pressure. Maybe 10 pounds of force to push down so seat correctly. Just wondering if this is common. I am sure the air will eventually work it' way out

 

[southkogs]

I think you're okay. Make sure you're not beating up that ring between the upper and lower, but otherwise if it swivels right and you didn't have to jam it - you should be okay.

 

[kenny nunez]

Before you hang the drive rotate the steering wheel lock to lock and the split the difference. Center the steering in the drive so that you will have 90* steering travel.

 

[froggy1150]

OK I am back on this thread.....
Splashed boat today and motor ran ok. No strange noises. I real issue. At about 2200 rpm drive let's loose. Back off and it works fine as long as I don't hit 2200 rpm. It has both new splined drive shafts. I need an opinion from an electric shift wizard

 

[racerone]

Try another prop first.-----I think the hub is slipping.-----If it is the drive spring slipping the lower unit must come apart for inspection.----Mark the prop and prop hub.----Test run and see if marks moved.

 

[kenny nunez]

Did you use gear oil made for electric shift lower units? It does however may be the propeller hub. I must congratulate you on your work that you have done so far to the “basket case” and finally got it going.

 

[froggy1150]

I used type c I think. I need to check the bottle. I just need to check all the cheap issues before I throw real money at it. I thought the prop was solid without a hub but I will check that. Is it possible for the drive foward spring to slip like that with the correct fluid in it?

 

[Redrig]

-Confirm that there is type C or an electric shift equivalent fluid in the lower for sure.

- test the magnets in the lower and confirm that you are at 4.5 to 6.5 ohms on your green / forward shift wire

-also confirm that your ground wire is attached at that pivot points ensuring the lower unit is grounded properly.

I dont think the electric shift props used hubs , at least the several props I had anyways . they were solid and used a shear pin.

Good luck

 

[racerone]

?????-----There is a hub in those props !!!!-----Even with regular gear oil the spring will not slip.-----That is if the spring and hub are in good condition.---Spring and hub can slip with correct oil in the unit.-----Mark the prop and hub.----Test run.-----This is all so easy to check out !!

 

[kenny nunez]

Did you replace the shift cable wire? Also you need to be sure that a full 12 volts is going to the drive. Use a jumper wire from the battery to the forward “green” wire just to be sure that is not the cause. The only other fluid that OMC approved was automatic transmission fluid if type “C” was not available. Also as Redrig mentioned there has to be a ground wire between the steering bumper mounting bolt to one of the side covers where the water transfers from the drive to the intermediate housing.