73 Evinrude starflite only turns over when jumping the solenoid

[fiveforwardgears]

I bought a nice tri hull boat for 500 with a 73 evinrude 85hp just last week and i'm very excited about it. He was a nice older man in a huge house who bought it as a project to work on with his son. He completely replaced the floors and carpeting and did a tune on up the outboard. He had it running last summer on muffs and it was stored in a heated garage. This spring he tried starting it so he assumed dead battery, even with a jump it would not start. So he jumped the solenoid and it turned over and thats all he tried. Fast forward to yesterday, i bought a new marine starting battery, cleaned the connections for it and hooked it up, no click no turn over no nothing when turning the key. So at that point i also jumped the solenoid. It turned over and engaged the starter.

So i figured sweet! its the solenoid. I went and got the automotive equivalent (ive read how they arent build to withstand the moisture and corrosion that marine grade ones are, but all boat stores were closed and i wanted to try it.) i fully intended on returning that solenoid and getting a marine one after confirming the issue was indeed that. I put in the new solenoid, hook everything back up and again, no start, no noises, no crank nothing just silence when you turn they key. I dont want to jump this solenoid because as mentioned i intend on returning it to buy marine grade. I Suppose there is a chance that its still the solenoid, but internally they're identical and this was done in a driveway and i have the same symptoms as the old solenoid. So i think probability wise that for the most part rules out the solenoid. Agree or no?

I'm really baffled, is there something between the battery and solenoid to check? I dont see fuses anywhere and i was convinced this was the problem. After researching i read that they motors will not start if not in neutral so i did indeed make sure it was in neutral but to no avail. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm new to boats and i really wanted to get it on the water for the holiday weekend. Thank you all for your patience and help!

-Brett

 

[oldboat1]

need the omc solenoid or equivalent -- not because of quality issues, but because they are different animals from automotive solenoids. You might want to use the original one, and revisit wiring issues first (including keyswitch connections).

 

[fiveforwardgears]

I also read this! Not to split hairs and im sure its been argued to death on here and every other boat forum. But every thread ive seen that has torn them apart has stated the only difference is extra waterproofing/sealing and vibration protection. But i will reinstall the old one as suggested.

Once i do, where should i look? Is there a common issue with these outboards? I know this sounds like arrogance and being an avid automotive forum user i know how frustrating it is to have someone post about something thats been covered a hundred times. But honestly i dont even know where id begin to search forum wise for what my problem is.


Edit: not trying to argue in favor of using autmotive grade solenoid, im just stating that for testing purposes it should be the same. Maybe what ive read was wrong and if so please tell me, i may be ignorant but i'm not bullheaded.

 

[fiveforwardgears]

picture.

 

[oldboat1]

your call -- can try to make it work (maybe touch a ground from the bat to one of the small terminals).

 

[fiveforwardgears]

I should have taken pictures of the wiring i could see for you guys. I have pics of the solenoid but not where the wires meet the battery. >< that was stupid of me. At the Battery I only have 3 wires. The thick black one from the solenoid, the thick red one from the solenoid, and a much thinner black one. that's it. how many grounds should be ran to the battery itself? I fully intend on reading up as i have purchased the repair manual and its on its way. I was just hoping to get it out for my first time as a boat owner for the holiday weekend. Thats looking much less likely.

 

[CaptnKingfisher]

My wiring diagram shows an inline fuse leading from the trigger switch to the selenoid on the 3/8 terminal. If that fuse is blown the symptom would be exactly what you are describing. Poke around some more under the cowling and chase the wires coming off the selenoid just to doublrcheck. The wiring diagram I'm looking at is labeled 1974-1976 johnson v4s

 

[jbuote]

If the choke switch isn't operating the choke either with key in the run position, then most likely the inline fuse is blown as suggested.
​My diagram for it (labeled 85hp 72 thru 76) shows the inline fuse in the smaller red wire between the large solenoid terminal (the positive (red) battery cable attaches to) and the wiring harness plug (connects engine to control unit). The other small red wire should go to a terminal block. That's not it..

​Its probably a black plug looking thing in the small red wire, holds a small fuse...
IF that's the problem..

I'm still new, so keep that in mind too..
Hope it helps even if just a little.....

 

[fiveforwardgears]

I'm storing the boat at a friends house as i live in south minneapolis. My intentions are to get off work tomorrow go straight there and start trouble shooting through tomorrow night. First thing i will check is that fuse! I much appreciate you checking that out for me. I'm definitely going to follow as much as i can of the grounds coming off the solenoid. I'm excited to actually have something to try now. I'll also be borrowing a multi meter tomorrow! I used to live up north and always used my dads garage, never needed tools until i moved hours away a few years ago. so i'm slowly acquiring them now.

 

[F_R]

FYI, the OMC solenoid is different than an automotive solenoid!!! Believe it. On the OMC solenoid, one small post receives voltage from the key switch and the other small terminal grounds it either directly or through a safety switch. On a car solenoid, one small terminal receives a voltage from the key switch and the mounting base grounds it. The second small terminal on a car solenoid supplies a full 12V whallop to the ignition coil to bypass the ballast resistor during starting. You don't need to understand car wiring, but what you do need to understand is that that 12V, if applied to the safety switch will instantly destroy the safety switch. Why wrack your brain? Just use the right parts.

 

[fiveforwardgears]

No Title

This wire comes from the Motorola ignition system module. Any chance this is my issue? Looks pretty damaged.

 

[fiveforwardgears]

Obviously said above is damaged and should be replaced. But would it crank over when jumping the solenoid if this wire was not doing its intended function? Here's the wire coming out of the ignition module : http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533/Cleverusename/Snapchat-1738708381_zpstr3ulmak.jpg

 

[racerone]

???---Motorola module ?----Not a 1973 model motor then !------Post your model number first !

 

[fiveforwardgears]

Apologies it's a 72. Again no books yet so I was just trying to remember. I grabbed everything out of the boat. It's a 1972 85 hp starflite model : 85293R

 

[fiveforwardgears]

Found the fuse and it was destroyed. I replaced it and the boat turns over! I had it running on the muffs it was just cold blooded. Now I have no spark. It turns over fine I just don't get spark, I've used a spark plug tester to confirm this. Is that messed up wire coming off the ignition system my culprit?

 

[F_R]

Could be. Is that the black & white stripe wire between the amplifier and distributor? If so, that is the wire that triggers the amplifier when it is time to fire.

 

[fiveforwardgears]

After further testing via the manual I got in the mail, it seems the ignition module is dead. Anyone know where to find an aftermarket one that doesn't cost 400?

 

[F_R]

Just wondering, what manual did you get? The original ones are obsolete. They say to use an obsolete tester.

 

[oldboat1]

Maybe an issue with the points? Believe the '72 might have been the last model before breakerless ignitions -- chance there might be an easy fix (cleaning and regapping -- probably .010, but should check).

 

[Chaseoldham]

Found the fuse and it was destroyed. I replaced it and the boat turns over! I had it running on the muffs it was just cold blooded. Now I have no spark. It turns over fine I just don't get spark, I've used a spark plug tester to confirm this. Is that messed up wire coming off the ignition system my culprit?

Hey man, I’ve got the same motor. Having trouble finding the in line fuse. I’ve looked all around.