'73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

[Sabbath]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

It's all fixed and running well now heading off to the water tomorrow

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeah Booooooooooooooooooooooooi!

 

[spool]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

It's all fixed and running well now heading off to the water tomorrow

Hi Frank, Maybe you can answer this for me.

On the water my boat revs then selects gear, The boat should select a gear before building revs correct? It was slamming gears when i took it out which was not nice to drive

I've tried adjusting the linkages a bit so that it does not rev until a gear but i can't seem to get enough adjustment out of it. Is there anyway to adjust the sensitivity of the shifting linkage?

 

[Nordin]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

Some pics of the remotecable at the engine please. It is easier to see if something is wrong. Have you the right connector at throttlecable? Factory made typs, there are two connectors, one longer with springload function and one without.
You adjust it like this: Set the remote in neutra,l adjust the connector for throttle (one with springload) so you have to force the load about 3/16-1/4 inch to put it over the ball.
The gearshiftconnector you adjust so the connector fits over the ball right away.
Check when you remove the remote slowly that the gearshiftlinkage starts to move first and enougth to engage the clutchdog in the gearhouse before the throttlelinkage starts to move.
You can feal it by turning the prop back and forward when you move the remote.

If this doesn?t help, then check that the shiftrod travel all the way up and down when you shift from reverse to forward.
Shift in reverse and mark with a pencil at the shiftcoupler on the middleg (you see the coupler at the lower shookmounthouse) then shift in to forward and mark the possision. Shift in neutral and check that the possison is in the midway from reverse and forward.

If not then there are some problem in the gearhouse.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power



Read my sticky in FAQs: Synchronizing carbs and timing. It is very important to have correct timing and carb butterfly opening at idle or shifting problems will occur. If the idle stop screw on the tower is screwed in too far to acheive a reliable idle, then much of the shift movement before engine speed advance will be lost and you will not be able to rev at all in neutral.

The cable ends must also be correctly installed as shown in a couple of these photos AND the shift linkage under the carb must also be adjusted correctly. Note how far the throttle end is pulled out in neutral in the second and third photos.

The upper rod, usually located under the bottom carb but shown here on a bare midleg for clarity in the last photo should be adjusted for correct F N R shifting with the lower rod screwed all the way into the lower unit. The shift cable must be adjusted at the end(s) (possibly both inside the control and at the engine) so that the two neutral intrlock plates (not shown) are even with each other in neutral. The plate on the shift arm will move up and down to clear the plate (cam) on the timing tower when the engine is put in gear. This limits revving in neutral.

Lastly, the distributor drive belt must NOT be too tight or it will cause shift problems. Distributor is adjusted so that a .010 flat steel feeler gauge bends when the belt is depressed in the center with it. The gauge should be pointed at the belt like a finger and should bend when the belt deflects 1/8 to 3/16 inch. Damn-- I need to take a photo of that!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power



Showing belt tension with an .010 feeler gauge and showing setting of neutral interlock in neutral. as stated above, the control cable sets the position of the white square tab in neutral and the upper shift rod (upper nut and threaded rod visible--lower not not visible) adjusts the neutral position of the lower unit.

 

[spool]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

I'll give it a shot tonight. at adjusting it tonight.

FYI here is a picture of the engine
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45850904/IMG_2574.JPG

should i get some revs before a gear is selected?
I did some adjusting last night and made it better however i feel it could be better.

 

[stubtail]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

I would say no revs at gear selection. Bear in mind that idle speed should be set at 700 - 800 RPM in gear.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power



NO! Look again at the long stainless throttle termination--third of four photos in post 84 above. The spring loaded center portion is pulled out in neutral so that as the control handle moves, the center moves inward without advancing the timing/throttle. Thus: the engine can go into gear BEFORE the throttle advances.

Looking at your photo, you need to loosen the cable locknut (Mine is brass) and screw in the termination further. The idle stop screw appears to be set too far in and the throttle advance cam is right on the line so you should go back and read synchronizing carbs and timing and reset. Note that some engines are a bit fussy and may require the idle stop set screw to be almost all the way in to get an acceptable 700-750 rpm idle in forward gear, in the water.

In these three photos, I am showing the position of the termination with the center all the way in, the shift arm showing the lower unit fully engaged in forward gear, and the throttle cam still in the neutral position. NOTE that in neutral the two lines on the cam are slightly below the center of the black roller. The two lines are used for setting the position of the roller and usually will be in the position shown after synchronizing the carbs and timing.

Compare the throttle termination to the two photos of it in post #84 above. Notice the difference between extended in neutral and retracted in gear?

You also need to mount your CD box better. While factory came with rubber isolation screws, they are not necessary. Three 5/16 bolts with spacers on the back to move the box away from the block are sufficient. The CD box is epoxy potted and vibration will not harm it.

 

[spool]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

View attachment 127479View attachment 127480View attachment 127478

NO! Look again at the long stainless throttle termination--third of four photos in post 84 above. The spring loaded center portion is pulled out in neutral so that as the control handle moves, the center moves inward without advancing the timing/throttle. Thus: the engine can go into gear BEFORE the throttle advances.

Looking at your photo, you need to loosen the cable locknut (Mine is brass) and screw in the termination further. The idle stop screw appears to be set too far in and the throttle advance cam is right on the line so you should go back and read synchronizing carbs and timing and reset. Note that some engines are a bit fussy and may require the idle stop set screw to be almost all the way in to get an acceptable 700-750 rpm idle in forward gear, in the water.

In these three photos, I am showing the position of the termination with the center all the way in, the shift arm showing the lower unit fully engaged in forward gear, and the throttle cam still in the neutral position. NOTE that in neutral the two lines on the cam are slightly below the center of the black roller. The two lines are used for setting the position of the roller and usually will be in the position shown after synchronizing the carbs and timing.

Compare the throttle termination to the two photos of it in post #84 above. Notice the difference between extended in neutral and retracted in gear?

You also need to mount your CD box better. While factory came with rubber isolation screws, they are not necessary. Three 5/16 bolts with spacers on the back to move the box away from the block are sufficient. The CD box is epoxy potted and vibration will not harm it.

Thanks Frank, I've done that now. seems better, when i took that photo i was still assembling it, i mounted the CD unit properly don't worry. So there is no harm in using straight bolts? i repaired two of the mounts as they had broke free.

 

[spool]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

Ok so after hours of adjusting i cant get it to beable to select reverse and forwards via the throttle.

moving the levar manually it selects gear but it feels like they are very far apart.
i believe the lower unit may be worn. it selected gear fine last time i took it out but after a few minutes slipped out of gear and stopped selecting any gear.

what do you think?

 

[spool]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

The best I can get it currently is To go into just go into drive ok then half engage reverse, if I give the linkage a little push it fully engages reverse fine. I've tried adjusting it the other way and it will engage reverse not not forward. I even got it in the middle where it would t engage forward or reverse ( like what happened on the water)

 

[stubtail]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

It might be worth removing the remote control box to ensure that the shift cable outer sheath is securely clamped to the box and not moving with control movements. The same goes for the outer sheath being secure at the engine end.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

AND: Chrysler control boxes were designed to be used on either side of the boat. Because of this there are two mounting holes in the shift lever for the cable terminal. I think the correct hole is the rear one but now you are going to make me go out and look. That's the kind of thing I don't usually remember.

If you have a surface mount box, be certain the raised land inside the cable locating groove is not broken and be sure the fiber plate that screws down is not loose or broken.

 

[spool]

Re: '73 chrysler 105 surges at WOT then loses power

AND: Chrysler control boxes were designed to be used on either side of the boat. Because of this there are two mounting holes in the shift lever for the cable terminal. I think the correct hole is the rear one but now you are going to make me go out and look. That's the kind of thing I don't usually remember.

If you have a surface mount box, be certain the raised land inside the cable locating groove is not broken and be sure the fiber plate that screws down is not loose or broken.

Already checked it and it's fine, I've tried both holes nothing seems to work (my boats RHD)

EDIT: Ok so i decided to try something, i made a extension bracket ( i did not modify the orignal lever bracket ) to give the lever a little more movement and now it selects forwards, neutral and reverse perfectly. (before the throttle moves past the two lines)

I know somethings worn in my lower leg so perhaps after this summer season (it's currently summer in Australia) ill find out what/why.