Re: 70 CHRYSLER setting up since 1987
Whoa! Your engine is really old. It has automotive type.battery and coil ignition. I haven't seen one of those in a long time. That is a stock Chrysler coil mount and no, the distributor is NOT electronic.
OK---Start here. Check to be certain the thin red wire is attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This is how the whole ignition system gets power. Then below the engine terminal strip there will be a circuit breaker. It will either be a silver rectangular can or a plastic one with a reset button. Check to be certain that 12 volts is being supplied to the terminal strip. If not, replace the silver can or press the reset button on the black plastic one. if still no power, replace the black one. Of course, I expect that you will have checked for broken wires and corrosion on any terminals.
At the ignition switch, the blue wire attaches to the "I" terminal. This supplies power to the coil. Be certain that the red wire shows 12 volts and with the switch on the blue wire does also. At the engine terminal strip the blue wire goes to the + (pos) terminal of the coil. Now, A white wire (or in your case white with a black tracer) should go from the - (neg) of the coil to the points terminal on the side of the distributor. The distributor MUST be grounded from the movable part to the mounting on the block. If not, the grease insulates the movable part and the points will not ground when they close.
Your switch should be Push To Choke type. To choke the engine for cold starting, you push in on the key and hold while turning it to start. For cold starting you pull out the silver lever or knob on the control box and advance the control handle as far as it will go. This is fast idle position.
With the points closed, the coil is charged. When the points open, the magnetic field inside the coil collapses and generates a high voltage pulse to the plug(s).
The white wire at the engine terminal strip is not used.
SO: Take the cap off the distributor. Clean the points and set them to .010 gap at a high lobe on the cam. Now check for spark. If no spark, check the condenser. There should be one inside the distributor. If it is cracked or if the wire is broken, replace it. You don't necessarily need a Chrysler condenser-- a lawnmower one will do in a pinch.
If still no spark, turn the switch on and ground the neg terminal of the coil. If no spark is made, the coil needs to be replaced.
Of course, you need to check that the distributor is set to its correct position: The pulley on top should have the curved line aligned with the flywheel when the engine is at top dead center. The TDC or 0 degree line on the flywheel should point to the TDC line on the engine block pointer above the top carb.
Original fuel lines were 5/16 ID but you can use 3/8.