6hp Chrysler - several questions

[pckeen]

I picked up this motor last season (with several others), and tested it for spark this morning - it has spark. If I can get it up and running, I want to use it on a 14' Lonestar I'm repairing.

Here's a picture of the motor.



So here are the questions:

1. This looks like an early 70s motor to me. How do I identify the year? I've looked for a metal plate on the transom mounting bracket, but cannot find one.
2. I have no gas tank or gas line for this - what kind of portable tank and line do I need to buy (I checked with the local marina last year, and they had no idea)?
3. What oil/gas mix should I use?

 

[Bullie]

Look inside the cowl on the bottom for a plate with the model and serial number. Any tank will work. You will need a Chrysler connector to connect the hose to your motor. Available on this site I think. 50:1

I have a couple that are similar to yours. They run great. You will likely have to rebuild the fuel pump if it has been sitting up a long time. Easy job. Clean the carb, change the impeller (you might get lucky and the original is still in there)... and fire it up.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The standard Chrysler fuel connectors are junk.
The rubber seal inside will go bad as soon as you use Ethanol fuel(if it hasn't already gone bad)(they have that up there?)
You can change to any OMC or Mercury connector.
Change the fuel lines too.
Do a compression test before you spend any $$$

 

[pckeen]

Look inside the cowl on the bottom for a plate with the model and serial number. Any tank will work. You will need a Chrysler connector to connect the hose to your motor. Available on this site I think. 50:1

I have a couple that are similar to yours. They run great. You will likely have to rebuild the fuel pump if it has been sitting up a long time. Easy job. Clean the carb, change the impeller (you might get lucky and the original is still in there)... and fire it up.

Thanks - I'm going to hook it up to a tank and see what happens - as I mentioned, this was owned previously by a mechanic who collected motors, so I'm hoping he took care of it. I took a look on iboats for the connector - a 5/16 and a 3/8 - does this refer to the fuel line, or are there different sizes of connectors?

 

[pckeen]

The standard Chrysler fuel connectors are junk.
The rubber seal inside will go bad as soon as you use Ethanol fuel(if it hasn't already gone bad)(they have that up there?)
You can change to any OMC or Mercury connector.
Change the fuel lines too.
Do a compression test before you spend any $$$

Good to know - it looks to me as though the fuel lines on the outboard are fairly new, so I'm thinking I'll be OK there. I believe I did a compression test when I picked these up last fall - and compression on both motors was good.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 5/16-3/8 is the hose size.

 

[Frank Acampora]

The standard connector for that engine is a MALE-SCREW_IN which screws into the cowling. Easiest would be to buy a Chrysler/Force FEMAL:E connector-- about 15 dollars. You can use any thing you want at the tank end but if you want to change at the engine you will need to remove the male fitting and run small diameter fuel tubing through the existing hole or drill another hole in the cowl. Frequently these engines have a hole in the starboard side where a shift lever at one time passed through. This is covered by a plastic cap and can be used for fuel line.

 

[pckeen]

Done, and Done. There was one Chrysler female connector, with a 5/16" fitting, left at one store within 200 miles, so I picked that up.; The real frustration was that all other parts fit 3/8" gas line. Fortunately, as I discovered when comparing parts, the parts would fit both a 5/16 or a 3/8" line. Putting the lines in boiling water softened them up enough to put everything together, so the tank and all connectors have been purchased.

Next stage.....testing....which may have to wait a few days.

 

[pckeen]

Well it's alive. I had a spare hour tonight, so (amongst other projects), I got it up and running. It took a number of pulls to get it going, and it didn't like to idle, so probably needs a carb cleaning. I ran it with a 4 gallon pail (just) covering the water intakes. It spat some water, but not much, so I'm thinking it will need a new impeller.

Trouble is, I still can't ID the model. Anyone have a photograph of where to look for the ID plate. These Chrysler's have virtually no room around the powerhead and components, so I cannot see any sign of a plate.

 

[Nordin]

The ID plate should be in the rear of the lower cowl just beside the head and sparkplugs.
The year is from 1971-73 when looking at the design/colour of the hood.

 

[pckeen]

Got it - thanks. It's a model 62BD, which makes it a 1973 6 horse, Here's a couple of images to help others find this.





I removed the lower unit today, and checked the impeller - it looks fine, so bolted it all back up. I'll have to give it a proper water test. Just waiting for the hard water on the lake to leave.

 

[pckeen]

Well, we splashed the motor. Good news is there is lots of water coming out of the water pump outlet, the gears switched easily, and it started up with about a dozen pulls. As you can see, the ice has started going out on the lake. When I tested the motor, I ran it wide open. Took a video of it, as I haven't used either a 6hp or a Chrysler before. Is this the amount of power I should get when running it wide open? If not, what should I do?

 

[Glastron_V210]

Seems way low on power to me...RPMs way too low for wide open throttle. Sounds smooth but flat to me.

Have you checked the throttle mechanism (Look at the carb butterfly to make sure it is opening all the way, and make sure the choke plate is opening), and the timing ring...do they move well?

Chay

 

[Nordin]

Yes as Glastron says, check the throttlebutterfly and check you have spark at both plugs. It could be runing on one cylinder only.
It does not rev out fully and it should make your boat just go out on plane if you move a bit forward in the boat.
This action will help it out on plane.

You can google chrysleroutboarddude and you will find many videos when he runs different Hp Chrysler OB and he runs many 6Hp.

 

[pckeen]

Yes as Glastron says, check the throttlebutterfly and check you have spark at both plugs. It could be runing on one cylinder only.

So using a spark tester, I have spark on both plugs. I haven't changed the plugs since I got it, nor have I removed the plugs and have not checked them since running the motor.

Have you checked the throttle mechanism (Look at the carb butterfly to make sure it is opening all the way, and make sure the choke plate is opening), and the timing ring...do they move well?

The choke plate moved smoothly. I can't see inside the motor to look at the carb butterfly - there just isn't room. The cam seemed loose, so I adjusted those components to it was still touching the timing ring when the throttle was fully open. All that didn't seem to make a difference. I made a video of the motor when it was running, so you could get a sense of what I was seeing.

Here's the video. What do you suggest?

https://youtu.be/pjnRwrLSv34

 

[Glastron_V210]

After listening to it this time I agree with Nordin...sounds like 1 cylinder only.

To test, start the engine. Pull one spark plug boot at a time. I suspect you will find that pulling one of them will kill it entirely, and pulling the other will make no difference at all....

Obviously if it make no difference then that cylinder was not firing.



If true, compression check and go from there.


Chay

 

[Nordin]

Check compression on the cylinders, looking at the pics the head is miscoloured (chocolate brown).
Maybe the headgasket is bad or bad compression due to stuck rings after heating from bad cooling.

 

[pckeen]

After listening to it this time I agree with Nordin...sounds like 1 cylinder only.

To test, start the engine. Pull one spark plug boot at a time. I suspect you will find that pulling one of them will kill it entirely, and pulling the other will make no difference at all....

Obviously if it make no difference then that cylinder was not firing.



If true, compression check and go from there.


Chay

You both (and Chrysleroutboarddude as well) weighed in with the same opinion. I removed the spark plugs, and sure enough, one was a nice brown color, and the other was black, oily and fouled. So I replaced the plugs & gapped them properly - this made a night and day difference. Here's the vid.

https://youtu.be/hq4nBYn7Xxs

I compared with with Chrysleroutboarddude's - he is getting a higher RPM than mine, so I'm guessing I should still get better performance. Here is his:

https://youtu.be/8ZEXMOimFU4

I checked the compression - both cylinders are similar at about 62 psi. I'm going to try adjusting the lean/rich screw, to see if that makes a difference. I don't believe I need to adjust the butterfly, as I manually pushed it when running flat out - it didn't make any difference to the RPMs, and I couldn't really push it much further.

What suggestions do you all have?

 

[Nordin]

Now it sounds better. Do not take so serious comparing your RPM to his (chrysleroutboarddude). Difference can depend on how much the boat weight, load and prop pitch.

Setting the carb fuel/air mixturescrew do like this. Screw it in to sligtly seated and then back it out 1 turn. Start the engine and warm it up to working temperature (about 2-3 minutes idling). Turn the screw out 1/8 turn and let it stable for 10 sec, continue like this until it starts to misfire/load up due to to rich mixture. Note the position and then go back to 1 turn out. Then start to screw in 1/8 turn and let stable about 10 sec. Continue turning in 1/8 each time until it starts to stal due to to lean mixture. Note the position. Set the mixture screw in the middle of these positions.

BUT do not set it leaner the 3/4-1 turn out from seated. You may get a better idle BUT the lean setting can cause melting the pistons.

62 PSI compression sounds little low, should be about 90-100. But it can be your gauge reading low.
As the engine sounds healthy in the video do not take any attention to the compression numbers.

I think you can set the idle a bit lower. I the video it is a little high. Do this after you have set the mixture screw.
Idling RPM should be about 750-800 in gear.

 

[Glastron_V210]

I wish all my fixes went so well!.

Nice to hear it howling away!

Chay