67 Johnson 40 HP electric shift wiring

agungune

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Hey guys, thank you so much on the responses to my previous question, I was able to do so much work on the outboard! It’s pretty much done except for the wiring. So here is another newbie question, I have managed to find connections for most wires but I forgot where/what this single wire (pic 1) connects to? The other end goes into what I think is the safety/cut-out switch and also to the base of the Flywheel assembly via a small black box (pic 2 & pic 4). The only places that cable can reach is (pic 3):
1. Voltage Regulator
2. Generator
3. Screw connected to metal frame
4. Screw at the base of the carb
5. Silver disc at the bottom
I also don’t see any connection for it at the other end of the cable connector coming from the boat remote control/dash.
I have attached pictures.
And while I am at it, let me ask the dumbest question ever: where does the battery negative/black cable connect to on the outboard? Thanks in advance! :)
 

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racerone

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No wires ( picture #3 ) attach to that drain plug on the carburetor bowl.-----And where is your starter solenoid ?----It appears to be missing !-----Starter appears to be one from an older motor as well.-----The generator / voltage regulator must work on this motor or damage the clutch springs may happen.----Have you tested the shift electro magnets and shift switch in the control box?
 
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racerone

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I cannot see all the details on your motor.----But I think that one wire goes from a small terminal on the solenoid to the safety switch under the magneto plate.----And that safety switch only has ONE wire going to it.----Have you pulled flywheel to inspect ignition coils ?
 

racerone

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I do not believe the 67 models had the recoil starters on the electric shift motors.
 

agungune

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I cannot see all the details on your motor.----But I think that one wire goes from a small terminal on the solenoid to the safety switch under the magneto plate.----And that safety switch only has ONE wire going to it.----Have you pulled flywheel to inspect ignition coils ?
Thank you for the input @racerone So this motor works, just that the starter solenoid had gone kaput & I am adding a new one, it would start if you jumped the starter by directly connecting the battery positive to it & everything stayed on & worked. I have connected the green wire (G in pic 3) from the 10 point connector to the one of the large terminals of the solenoid along with battery positive, connected a whitish/yellowish cable from the 10 point connector to the “S” terminal on the solenoid (Y in pic 3) & left the “I” terminal blank, I’ve connected just the starter motor to the other big terminal on the solenoid. I had removed the lower unit to redo wiring & change impeller. Everything should work I just forgot where that one little cable connects. 😅
 

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racerone

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What solenoid did you install ?----Part # of it ?----Why would you not install the factory solenoid?----Is it because the mounting spot is damaged ?
 

racerone

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I believe someone put that on there later.----Puzzling to me as to why that was done !!----Bad starter ?-----Bad battery ?----Bad generator ?
 

agungune

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What solenoid did you install ?----Part # of it ?----Why would you not install the factory solenoid?----Is it because the mounting spot is damaged ?
Bought the solenoid from a marine store, it is for the specific motor. We can go all day about the work am doing because this is the first ever motor am working on and there will be plenty of mistakes lol, but are you able to tell me where that extra wire might go? 😁
 

agungune

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I believe someone put that on there later.----Puzzling to me as to why that was done !!----Bad starter ?-----Bad battery ?----Bad generator ?
I think all electric shift motors of that generation came with these specific starters and generators. Non electric shift motors from the same years came with different starter motors and no generators. :)
 

jimmbo

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The 67 Brochures say the Lark/Electramatic Models have an "Emergency Starter Rope".

Looking at the pic posted showing the Recoil. WTF happened to the Generator Pulley? The recoil doesn't look like it will be of much use.
 

agungune

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Thank you, I have this exact same diagram but that cable that is sticking out, it comes directly from the cut-out switch and is just hanging outside the 10 pin connector and is not a part of it as shown in the diagram, that is my confusion. It has a ring terminal so it definitely manually connects to something in the powerhead area, I know there were no extra or lose wires when I first opened it. According to the diagram that cable connects to the starter switch on the dash via the 10-pin connector lines but this is not part of those lines at all. Plus other things on the outboard also don’t match this diagram like the cables underneath the generator connect directly to the voltage regulator but not according to the diagram. So confusing.
 

agungune

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The 67 Brochures say the Lark/Electramatic Models have an "Emergency Starter Rope".

Looking at the pic posted showing the Recoil. WTF happened to the Generator Pulley? The recoil doesn't look like it will be of much use.
There is a little red box that says emergency starter rope but that was empty and the rope came this way when I bought it. I didn’t care because the electric start worked great and the motor ran quite well. Also the generator runs well, that messed part at the top is just the thin aluminum cap/housing that is for protection, there is no functionality issue really.
 

racerone

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Post #3 suggests that the loose wire comes from the FACTORY solenoid and ends up at the safety switch.-----But you are working on your first motor.-----I was working on motors like yours in 1968 !!----I think I will step aside on this project.-----Good luck with it.
 

racerone

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Fact your motor has an older starter on it.----I do not believe the 67 electric shift left the factory with a painted white recoil !!-----The factory solenoid had 2 small terminals.-----One got 12 volts from ignition switch.-----Other one ended up at the safety switch and grounded there if throttle was not open too far.----Several years ago I saw someone struggling at the launch ramp with a 40 HP Johnson like yours.----Said they had just paid $700 at a boat shop for repairs.-----Without opening my tool box I pointed out 6 or 7 things that were wrong !!----I made some small repairs.------They said " thank you very, very much " -----They took it back to that shop to have the issues corrected>
 

agungune

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Fact your motor has an older starter on it.----I do not believe the 67 electric shift left the factory with a painted white recoil !!-----The factory solenoid had 2 small terminals.-----One got 12 volts from ignition switch.-----Other one ended up at the safety switch and grounded there if throttle was not open too far.----Several years ago I saw someone struggling at the launch ramp with a 40 HP Johnson like yours.----Said they had just paid $700 at a boat shop for repairs.-----Without opening my tool box I pointed out 6 or 7 things that were wrong !!----I made some small repairs.------They said " thank you very, very much " -----They took it back to that shop to have the issues corrected>
Please don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the input you’re providing and it’s only adding to my knowledge. You are obviously a man of craft and experience and know a lot about these motors which is why I was explaining things in detail with pictures so you could guide me but our conversation kept getting sidetracked about other things on the motor which is truly irrelevant since all of it is working without issues so I just wanted you to know that. Everything in the motor works flawlessly except for the solenoid that I replaced so all I wanted to know was where that cable goes, I have the diagram but it still does not make sense. Again, I appreciate your help and time, let that be very clear, my apologies if that sounded rude or unhelpful. So are you saying that lose wire connects to the other smaller post on the solenoid that is labeled “I”?
 

racerone

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I clearly stated that you have the wrong solenoid !!----It connects on the FACTORY SOLENOID !!----Perhaps not the one you have.-----The shop sold you one that " works " and did not take the time to get you a factory one.----Hard to understand since these factory solenoids were the same for about 50 years !!----It certainly does not go to a terminal marked " i "--And do not try that.------I REPEAT , get rid of that solenoid and get the correct one !!
 

saltchuckmatt

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Thank you, I have this exact same diagram but that cable that is sticking out, it comes directly from the cut-out switch and is just hanging outside the 10 pin connector and is not a part of it as shown in the diagram, that is my confusion. It has a ring terminal so it definitely manually connects to something in the powerhead area, I know there were no extra or lose wires when I first opened it. According to the diagram that cable connects to the starter switch on the dash via the 10-pin connector lines but this is not part of those lines at all. Plus other things on the outboard also don’t match this diagram like the cables underneath the generator connect directly to the voltage regulator but not according to the diagram. So confusing.
When I trace your wiring schematic, one of the wires that comes from your cut out switch goes to the solenoid so not sure why you say starter switch.

Also, I could not find your soloniod in the starter group breakdown but did find one on eBay. I don't see anything out of the ordinary though.

Do you see how the wire from the cut out switch goes to the soloniod?

Anyhow, here is the part I found.
 

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saltchuckmatt

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When I trace your wiring schematic, one of the wires that comes from your cut out switch goes to the solenoid so not sure why you say starter switch.

Also, I could not find your soloniod in the starter group breakdown but did find one on eBay. I don't see anything out of the ordinary though.

Do you see how the wire from the cut out switch goes to the soloniod?

Anyhow, here is the part I found.
Also, is this wire in?

What's weird is color code doesn't seem to work.
 

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