'64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

[AlexeiVT]

Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Another question...about the "shift shaft seal".<br /><br />Figure, at this point, as long as I'm taking things apart, why stop now...<br /><br />Not really knowing what it is that I'm trying to remove (if in fact there is anything worth removing), I'm not sure how to get at what I can't really see.<br /><br />Where the shift rod linkage itself passes through the lower unit, all I can see that's up in there, is a brass fitting pressed in...I can't actually detect that there is any sort of rubber or a seal in there (is there something up in that cavity worth replacing)?<br /><br />Before I tried to press it out somehow (and I saw the earlier reference for using a threaded rod to access there)...I just don't see that there is anything to remove (maybe there never was...or maybe that's part of the problem in that it has vanished over time).<br /><br />To seal out the water leaks from the lower unit, I had the following in mind...replace the prop shaft seal and o-ring, the spaghetti seal, and I'm figuring the seal UNDER the impeller...anything else?<br /><br />The shift shaft, so far as I can see (and from what I discern from the schematic) doesn't have a seal...in any case, I would think that by design, the only chance would be for oil to somehow work it's way, way the heck up into the rest of the motor, but fairly unlikely that water would intrude so far up in the motor housing to work its way down.<br /><br />In any case, I'm headed back to the supply shop since the last set of seals were not all correct...it'd be great to know where the water came in, rather than spend $9 a pop for several of these fancy seals w/ the springy retainer.<br /><br />I'll keep y'all posted, and be elated if everything works out...thanks again for your patience and help.

 

[byacey]

Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

There's a fat rubber O ring inside that brass piece; that's why it's necessary to drive it out to replace the O ring.<br />Be careful to punch it out with the right tool, otherwise the hole size will become enlarged and shorten the life and effectiveness of the seal.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Ah ha, that can only be the clutch dog jumping then. From your original description I was under the impression it was just a mild hiccup.<br /><br />The brass thing is the shift shaft bushing. Between it and the housing is the o-ring I was talking about. The hole through the bushing is slightly smaller than the hole through the aluminium housing. Here's some info on bushing extraction:<br /> http://forums.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=038017#000005 <br />The hole through the housing often has quite a bit of white corrosion which decreases it's diameter there. If you can knock it away, you'll find it's much eaiser to make a punch for it. I don't know what diagram you have, but if you would like one that is a little more clear, email me at paul.moir@gmail.com<br /><br />You may wish to forget about them for now and test out your clutch dog. You'll be able to reuse the spagetti and o-ring a few times. Eventually they take on a set and stop sealing very well. Did your dealer give you something for a sealant?<br /><br />EDIT: Too slow... Bill, I had to tear into a gearcase I sealed with Motoseal Grey a year ago. Held fine.

 

[AlexeiVT]

Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Just an update...<br /><br />Thanks again to all the folks w/ a vote of confidence for me being able to remedy the problem.<br /><br />Finally got the boat out on the water this past weekend, and having reinstalled the clutch dog after I did some "machining" to the ears, there is no slippage at all...can got from a standstill to WOT, or run for hours w/ no occasional violent bang like before.<br /><br />What I did, to try my best to square up the ears, was step through using a variety of grinding attachments (grinding stones, metal burrs, diamond dremel burrs), to get a vetical edge. I used a drill press to keep the grinding element square, and held the clutch dog itself in a vice (or freehand if called for). I just kept on wiping the face of the clutch ears (as well as the backside of the gears where they engage) w/ permanent marker, and used that as a tell-tale to indicate progress and to notify me when to stop, having reached a perpendicular cut.<br /><br />I now some had said they'd done it successfully, as well as others who've rarely seen it accomplished by a machine shop...but I suppose that maybe I was more lucky than talented, working w/ limited tools, but in the end, it all worked out the way it was supposed to, so I guess that's what counts (and saves me $ on a new set of gears/clutch).<br /><br />Thanks again.