'64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

AlexeiVT

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First, a slight background, and hopefully assistance on remedies for several problems.<br /><br />I have a '64 40 HP Evinrude BIG Twin.<br /><br />Last year, after finally getting things running nicely, I smacked the prop into something. Bent the propeller good enough to justify replacing it, so I did.<br /><br />It was sometime thereafter (hard to tell when since I only get the boat in the water a few times a year) that I noticed several problems.<br /><br />The first, was water in the lower unit. I'd checked the fluid in seasons past, and the seal was fine...but I'm sure the impact led to the leak. I've removed my lower unit, and am wondering if there is anything other than the spaghetti seal, and the O-ring and rubber washer that contacts the prop shaft, that seals water out of the lower unit (as I'd like to replace everything suspect, all at once). I already replaced the impeller, and the water tube seals seemed fine.<br /><br />But now, the real issue, and perhaps somehow maybe affected by the water intrusion?<br /><br />Now, when I accelerate hard, I notice that the engine "skips" (for lack of a better description). But, when you get to full WOT, it "usually" runs just fine...at least, it initially did (seems to be getting worse).<br /><br />The way I describe it, is that when humming along, it's almost the feeling coming from the engine that you've briefly run into something, that the motor skips a beat (and whether it's mechanical or electrical, I'm not sure).<br /><br />When idling, there doesn't seem to be any issue...but when you are cruising, basically the whole boat (aluminum runabout), just shakes for a moment. Sort of disconcerting, but it is intermittent, and it does keep running...these "irregularities" are for only a fraction of a second. They don't happen all the time, and are sort of hard to force...but you just know, the boat is gonna shake sometime sooner than later.<br /><br />I was thinking, that since this happened sometime after the prop running aground, that I boogered up something in the gears of the lower unit...I also figured I had to pull it apart anyway to reseal things.<br /><br />So, for better or worse, it looks like all is intact down there...I was really thinking I'd find a broken tooth or something, to explain the skip...but now since things look fine, that leaves me to think that maybe this mechanical feeling problem lies elsewhere.<br /><br />The points and coils look fine...but the plug wires certainly do not, and they are next on my list of parts to replace to hopefully fix this problem.<br /><br />So, I guess my question would be, could bad plug wires w/ cracked insulation, just coincidentally be giving way to the problem described?<br /><br />The motor never cuts out, basically gets you across the pond w/ out stopping, but you just know something isn't right, escpecially when accelerating or towing.<br /><br />I know I should've replaced the wires when I had the flywheel off...but given the boat itself is 200 miles away, and used only 6 times a year (when it works), I've been on the cheap side of fixing one issue at a time, rather than go broke on something that might go kaput for good any day.<br /><br />Basically, judging from the fact that nothing but water pours out even after a short run and freshly replaced gear lube, the last several runs have been done w/ fresh pond water doing the lubricating...better than nothing, and hopefully an explanation as well as to why it hasn't been running right.<br /><br />Sorry for the length of the post, just trying to tackle what's at hand now that it's starting to come apart. Thanks.
 

tashasdaddy

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51,019
Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

when it "skips" does it 'thunk' and then goes like normal. this would probably be the clutch dog. thats a good engine, and you are not doing the proper maint, for it, with proper maint. it could last longer than you will. pond water is not a lubricant. bring it home with you and give it the tlc it deserves.
 

AlexeiVT

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Messages
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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

When it "skips", it's really almost impossible to tell what's happening, because it's just for a fraction of a second...afterwards, it hums along like normal just fine.<br /><br />I suppose, you could call it a "thunk"...but what really makes it noticeable, is that the lightweight boat itself just shimmies, and the motor kinda hickups and wobbles...basically, you can run it all day w/out fear of it stalling, but you just never know when you are going to experience the hickup.<br /><br />As far as proper maintenance, that's what I'm trying to discern what best to do...I've replaced the impeller, rebuilt the carb, winterized the motor, and that's also when I inspected the lower unit oil to drain it for a CT winter against freezing, and saw the water the last time I ran it.<br /><br />So, I removed it and brought the motor back to NJ to work on, now I have the lower unit off and opened up...looking for something to point to the problem.<br /><br />This motor is still a "new" project for me...so I'm not sure what to look for as far as what a clutch dog is, and what a good, bad, or in need of replacement one is. As far as I can tell from a schematic, the dog must be part 45 or 46 (I don't have a full page listing of parts breakdown on the printout I got from a dealer).<br /><br />Is the clutch dog the piece that articulates (held in place for leverage by a Phillips head screw in the side of the gearcase assembly)? And, if so, how do you know if that's the problem...there are no visible signs of wear, and it shifts fine.<br /><br />I guess, I'll replace what's suggested in the hope that that fixes the problem...since I take it that there is more than just a problem w/ the water leaking in, I'd like to fix that before I try to seal it back up.<br /><br />I agree that it's a nice engine (in theory, from what I've heard)...but I inherited this motor that had been neglected by previous owners, as evidenced by each time I tear into it and discover something amiss...each time I take it out, it's something new...so always an adventure (but, having said that, last year it probably only saw the water 6 times, and probably less than that in terms of total hours for the last decade). Started out as a "fun" project...now I just want to try my reasonable best to get it closer to how it should be, without spending ridiculously to rebuild everything (it's got "issues" no doubt...both seen and unforseen).<br /><br />Any idea on other seals to replace?
 

Paul Moir

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6,847
Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Iboats sells a nice little kit that includes all the seals you need. You've missed the driveshaft seal and the shift shaft seal in your list. A proper job involves replacing them all. Also, check the cap and lower unit with a ruler or some other straight surface to make sure they're not bent at all from the impact.<br />You will need some sealant for the lower unit as well. The proper original stuff is 1000 sealer, but it's now impossible to find. I think BRP now peddles "Three Bond 1104" for the application but I'm not sure. <br />You'll need to make or find a tool to replace the shift rod bushing to get at the o-ring. Just search the forum for "shift bushing" and you'll find lots of good ideas and suggestions. Often people slightly grind down some 5/16" threaded rod.<br />You are going to need a manual before you attempt this repair. I would start with those plug wires if I were you. Use only metal core wire for a replacement. Clutch dog problems, which can be caused by water intrusion in the gearcase, feel more like slamming into a log than a hiccup. The dog itself is the part that slides on the splined section of the shaft, which is moved by the phillips screw bound shift lever via the shift yoke.<br />While you have the lower unit off service the water pump.
 

JasonJ

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Aug 20, 2001
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4,163
Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Make sure your points are clean and properly gapped. You said the coils look good, but are they the original coils? Also, you may need to enrichen your high speed setting on the carb just a bit (if there is a high speed adjust). I have found that with these old OMCs, it is always either the coils, points, or the carb. Definately replace the plug wires. Did this start before or after your carb rebuild?<br /><br />I have experienced the skip you are talking about, it isn't the gear case. I have experienced gear case issues such as broken teeth and clutch dogs, and it would happen most of the time, especially under full throttle acceleration from a standstill. <br /><br />The gears have large teeth (dogs) on the backs of them, and there is a part that slides back and forth between the gears that engages the teeth on the gears. This is what locks the gear to the shaft, and this is what you want to inspect. Look for excessive rounding of edges on the teeth, and look for broken or missing teeth.
 

AlexeiVT

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

An update, and more questions.<br /><br />OK, so what are the driveshaft, and shift shaft seals...and how likely for them to be a point of water entry?<br /><br />Is the driveshaft seal you are referring to, the seal that goes into the impeller housing (w/ the spiral wound spring to help push against it)...I figure that's the only place I see the driveshaft passing through.<br /><br />I went to my OMC supplier, w/ parts in hand, and explained my issues...what I ended up getting, was some spaghetti seal, a O-ring for the prop shaft seal, and the seal that fits against the prop shaft itself.<br /><br />If need be, I'll happily trek back out there for more parts...but per my discussion w/ him (who I don't know from Abe) he said that those would likely be the places for water intrusion and should do the job (if I need more seals, I sure wish he'd have brough that to my attention while I was there)...the info given was that basically water wasn't likely to be getting in from that high up in the case...plus, given the fact that this happened post impact, sort of pointed to the lower portion. When I removed the gearcase cover, the bolts came out pretty easily, and the spaghetti seal in there, didn't have any sealant on it...so that alone suggests that maybe water came in through there (how it kept it out for a while to begin w/, who knows).<br /><br />Last year, just before I stopped playing w/ the motor, I replaced the impeller, so that should be fine. Before that, I also pulled the flywheel, reset the points, and inspected the coils (which visibly look ok, and produce good spark), they've been replaced somewhere along the way previously, as they don't have the original potting material, no cracks.<br /><br />High speed jet is fixed on this motor. The issues, so far as I can tell, were post carb-rebuild (for the second time, since it was years between use)...but at the same time, prior to rebuilding the carb and tapping new threads for the plugs, it really didn't run well enough to tell what was going on.<br /><br />As far as the clutch dog...it certianly does look pretty worn...I originally was thinking about just flipping it over since I don't need (nor have rarely used) reverse...but after looking at it closely, it seems to have pretty worn surfaces no matter how I install it.<br /><br />I was thinking of welding the tabs back on and filing them down...but then again thinking it'd be better not to risk screwing things up more, since when the gear surfaces themselves wear, it'll be too costly to repair (as it is, the $50 for the clutch dog right now isn't in the budget just yet)...hopefully a used one will come up for less, since this likely isn't the end of my problems.<br /><br />You learn something new every day...this morning I didn't even know what a clutch dog was...now, I know how it functions, and that I have a boogered up one...the learning (and paying for parts) never ends.<br /><br />The dealer didn't have any appropriate plug wires in stock (was thinking of just cutting up some old but still good auto wires if it'd help).<br /><br />Thank you for all your input, I'm learing what to do...and if you think I should go back and figure out a way to replace those other seals, I'll head back for them. Thanks again.
 

AlexeiVT

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Messages
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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

An update, and more questions.<br /><br />OK, so what are the driveshaft, and shift shaft seals...and how likely for them to be a point of water entry?<br /><br />Is the driveshaft seal you are referring to, the seal that goes into the impeller housing (w/ the spiral wound spring to help push against it)...I figure that's the only place I see the driveshaft passing through.<br /><br />I went to my OMC supplier, w/ parts in hand, and explained my issues...what I ended up getting, was some spaghetti seal, a O-ring for the prop shaft seal, and the seal that fits against the prop shaft itself.<br /><br />If need be, I'll happily trek back out there for more parts...but per my discussion w/ him (who I don't know from Abe) he said that those would likely be the places for water intrusion and should do the job (if I need more seals, I sure wish he'd have brough that to my attention while I was there)...the info given was that basically water wasn't likely to be getting in from that high up in the case...plus, given the fact that this happened post impact, sort of pointed to the lower portion. When I removed the gearcase cover, the bolts came out pretty easily, and the spaghetti seal in there, didn't have any sealant on it...so that alone suggests that maybe water came in through there (how it kept it out for a while to begin w/, who knows).<br /><br />Last year, just before I stopped playing w/ the motor, I replaced the impeller, so that should be fine. Before that, I also pulled the flywheel, reset the points, and inspected the coils (which visibly look ok, and produce good spark), they've been replaced somewhere along the way previously, as they don't have the original potting material, no cracks.<br /><br />High speed jet is fixed on this motor. The issues, so far as I can tell, were post carb-rebuild (for the second time, since it was years between use)...but at the same time, prior to rebuilding the carb and tapping new threads for the plugs, it really didn't run well enough to tell what was going on.<br /><br />As far as the clutch dog...it certianly does look pretty worn...I originally was thinking about just flipping it over since I don't need (nor have rarely used) reverse...but after looking at it closely, it seems to have pretty worn surfaces no matter how I install it.<br /><br />I was thinking of welding the tabs back on and filing them down...but then again thinking it'd be better not to risk screwing things up more, since when the gear surfaces themselves wear, it'll be too costly to repair (as it is, the $50 for the clutch dog right now isn't in the budget just yet)...hopefully a used one will come up for less, since this likely isn't the end of my problems.<br /><br />You learn something new every day...this morning I didn't even know what a clutch dog was...now, I know how it functions, and that I have a boogered up one...the learning (and paying for parts) never ends.<br /><br />The dealer didn't have any appropriate plug wires in stock (was thinking of just cutting up some old but still good auto wires if it'd help).<br /><br />Thank you for all your input, I'm learing what to do...and if you think I should go back and figure out a way to replace those other seals, I'll head back for them. Thanks again.
 

AlexeiVT

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Messages
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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

An update, and more questions.<br /><br />OK, so what are the driveshaft, and shift shaft seals...and how likely for them to be a point of water entry?<br /><br />Is the driveshaft seal you are referring to, the seal that goes into the impeller housing (w/ the spiral wound spring to help push against it)...I figure that's the only place I see the driveshaft passing through.<br /><br />I went to my OMC supplier, w/ parts in hand, and explained my issues...what I ended up getting, was some spaghetti seal, a O-ring for the prop shaft seal, and the seal that fits against the prop shaft itself.<br /><br />If need be, I'll happily trek back out there for more parts...but per my discussion w/ him (who I don't know from Abe) he said that those would likely be the places for water intrusion and should do the job (if I need more seals, I sure wish he'd have brough that to my attention while I was there)...the info given was that basically water wasn't likely to be getting in from that high up in the case...plus, given the fact that this happened post impact, sort of pointed to the lower portion. When I removed the gearcase cover, the bolts came out pretty easily, and the spaghetti seal in there, didn't have any sealant on it...so that alone suggests that maybe water came in through there (how it kept it out for a while to begin w/, who knows).<br /><br />Last year, just before I stopped playing w/ the motor, I replaced the impeller, so that should be fine. Before that, I also pulled the flywheel, reset the points, and inspected the coils (which visibly look ok, and produce good spark), they've been replaced somewhere along the way previously, as they don't have the original potting material, no cracks.<br /><br />High speed jet is fixed on this motor. The issues, so far as I can tell, were post carb-rebuild (for the second time, since it was years between use)...but at the same time, prior to rebuilding the carb and tapping new threads for the plugs, it really didn't run well enough to tell what was going on.<br /><br />As far as the clutch dog...it certianly does look pretty worn...I originally was thinking about just flipping it over since I don't need (nor have rarely used) reverse...but after looking at it closely, it seems to have pretty worn surfaces no matter how I install it.<br /><br />I was thinking of welding the tabs back on and filing them down...but then again thinking it'd be better not to risk screwing things up more, since when the gear surfaces themselves wear, it'll be too costly to repair (as it is, the $50 for the clutch dog right now isn't in the budget just yet)...hopefully a used one will come up for less, since this likely isn't the end of my problems.<br /><br />You learn something new every day...this morning I didn't even know what a clutch dog was...now, I know how it functions, and that I have a boogered up one...the learning (and paying for parts) never ends.<br /><br />The dealer didn't have any appropriate plug wires in stock (was thinking of just cutting up some old but still good auto wires if it'd help).<br /><br />Thank you for all your input, I'm learing what to do...and if you think I should go back and figure out a way to replace those other seals, I'll head back for them. Thanks again.
 

AlexeiVT

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

OK, hey you could be right...I take it that the clutch dog is actually part 50 on the schematic.<br /><br />Basically, the part that is splined, and fits over the splined part of the prop shaft.<br /><br />Upon closer inspection, I see how the ears are worn, but only on one face of one side.<br /><br />So, the question now becomes (since this is a symmetrical assembly) what direction do I reinstall it. That is, is the gear assembly closest to the prop or the front of the motor, the one that engages forward gear.<br /><br />Rather than replace the clutch dog, I figure for now I'll just flip it...but since having things apart, just want to make sure I have the good sides engaging properly (I basically have never had any need for reverse, as this boat is just used in a pond...even so, slipping in reverse, would be a rare encounter anyway...lowe speed, and never used).
 

Paul Moir

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

The prop shaft seal is the more likely source of trouble, since it's often the victim of some rope or fishing line that gets caught up around the prop shaft. Anytime you have the gearcase apart you must replace the spagetti and the big o-ring (and the little o-ring on the pivot screw is a good idea too).<br />The drive shaft seal is beneath the water pump's stainless steel wear plate. It's rarely a problem but cheap & simple to replace. The shift shaft seal I find is often a source of trouble. Perhaps because it gets neglected. It's just an o-ring. The seal you're describing sounds like it's for the water pump itself. <br /><br />As for the dog, it's not a problem now so you can just reinstall it how you found it. Trust me, there's no mistaking that part when it slips. But if you want to experiment, flip it. I've looked at a few closely and they certainly appear to be symmetrical - there's not the slightest taper I can detect.<br />As a matter of fact, if you press the bearing out of the forward gear it's identical to the reverse gear too. So conceivably you can flip the whole thing. If, that is, you have a problem. Which you don't. :) <br />The gear closest to the front is the forward gear. It is locked to the driveshaft when you have it in forward. You're limited in how much throttle you get in reverse, so you don't have to worry about it slipping in reverse. Not that you're slipping now. <br /><br />All that said - you mention a carb rebuild? The new carb kits come with a rubber tipped needle. Did you use the tiny spring that also came with it that holds the needle onto the float? Failure to use it can often cause a high speed variation, as the needle is wont to stick in it's seat.<br />But I think you're problem is with the ignition system. It's working hardest at mid-throttle accelerations. A healthy system will produce sparks 3/8" long, and healthy plug wires will not have cracks. :)
 

BoatBuoy

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4,856
Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

And don't cut up those auto plug wires to use. They are carbon wires and won't work correctly. If the dealer doesn't have copper-core wire, try you local small engine repair shop.
 

AlexeiVT

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Still stumped as far as what to do next...<br /><br />I will replace the wires, just to knock that off the list as an affordable regular maintenance item (I looked them over pretty thoroughly, and it's really just the wire boots themselves that look a bit rough)...but the wires themselves just look old, but they generate a fair spark (went through all sorts of recommended troubleshooting last year w/ this motor from the great advice I got here).<br /><br />But, me not being much of a boater to begin w/, it's hard to know what problems I "should" specifically recognize.<br /><br />One thing though, that has me wondering, is when I look at the clutch dog itself...I was hoping to flip it, and use the better wear surface for the forward gear...BUT, the problem is, it doesn't matter whether I flip it or not, I still seem to have somewhat visibly worn ears (how much is too much, I don't know). But at this point, I can't even tell which way it came out, since no matter how I put it in, I'm going to end up w/ worn contact areas. I'm starting to suspect that somewhere over the last 40 years, that perhaps the clutch dog was already flipped over, since I wasn't expecting the contact areas used in reverse, to be worn as well.<br /><br />My concern, was that I didn't want to screw up things by continuing to run the dog as is, for fear of wearing out the forward gear point where it makes contact, and thus require replacement of that much more expensive item down the road.<br /><br />Like I said, I can't tell whether it's a slip in the clutch or not, or a small miss in the ignition (certainly cheaper to replace the wires, and hope for the best, and not have to lug it back home again).<br /><br />I had considered flipping the gears, but figured in the end it wouldn't help much since the wear is on the dog not the gear. The dealer said they were different part numbers, and to me both gears looked the same except that one had a stepped ridge around the back edge.<br /><br />I'm fairly confident the carb went back correctly...it sure functions a whole lot better than it ever did (since before, the holeshot acceleration took 10 or more unpredictable seconds, now it goes straight away). If by "spring" you're referring to the metal clip that sort of snaps onto the collar of the rubber tipped needle, yes I did use that.<br /><br />It would be great to have this intermittent problem disappear for good, and to do so cheaply. Any ideas on an off chance of locating a good used inexpensive clutch dog for an old Evinrude (preferably in NJ). The dealer was happy to look at his parts motors and offer me a chance at what was available, but all his dead motors were newer.<br /><br />I was initially thinking I could file the clutch dog ears so they are at least perfectly vertical, since I do see some rounding (as did the dealer). But, that hardened metal sure doesn't file too easily, and before I went pneumatic figured I'd stop and avoid trouble. I was considering welding a bit on the edge, and grinding to suit...but am thinking that it's probably got to be fairly precise in shape, or else I run the risk of just creating more wear in there.<br /><br />Reasonable suggestions welcome. Thanks.<br /><br />Another question related to the clutch dog...when it's time for replacing it, is it the sort of problem that you always experience, w/ it skipping out of gear? Is it possible I'm just catching this problem right at the beginning, since it's a fairly recent occurence? i sure don't like the bucking boat action...but at this point, it's intermittent.
 

AlexeiVT

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

I was also wondering...since whatever is happening, happens so quick, and the engine and boat keep moving, would the clutch dog be at fault?<br /><br />I'm not sure how it compares to something in a car or something...but figuring that there is really very little pressure on the linkage to put the dog in F-N-R, if it pops out and bucks, would it reallygo back into gear in the same instant?<br /><br />I mean, when you're at WOT, and if it were the clutch dog slipping out of gear for a split second under load, would it even be able to re-engage back into gear in that same instant...I would think (though I admit I don't know) that with the two parts momentarily disengaged, and spinning super fast, that they'd have a hard time coming back together until the speed and revs came way down (it's not like there is much pressure on the dog in the first place to hold it tight up against the backside of the forward gear to begin with).<br /><br />I wish there were an easier way other than on the boat at WOT to trouble shoot things, since I NEVER have the problem when it's just idling, or even reving up a bit, in a test drum.
 

diggerdan17

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Apr 11, 2003
Messages
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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

do a search for clutch dog ,i recently had similar problem....i had the bucking boat as well...took clutch dog out and didn,t think it was that bad..very minimal rounded corners on the lobes.i flipped it and put it all back together and she still bucked....then i wised up and put new dog in(cost me 100 bucks canadian)have not had any more problems.the marine mechanic told me that even a slight bit of rounded corners will cause clutch dog to momentarily jump out of gear.....but i didn,t believe him(i believe him now)plus the manual also states that if clutch dog looks worn in the least bit it should be replaced.just my 2 cents
 

AlexeiVT

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

PLan of attack...it seems like there is a definitive uncertainly as to what is causing my issue, and what the best (and cheapest) remedy is.<br /><br />Some seem to feel the clutch dog is to blame, others seem to think that if it is the dog, that when it pops out it should stay out of gear since there's not much keeping it in...the engine doesn't rev up, and I don't have to move the gear selector cable, it just keeps on going.<br /><br />But, as best I can tell...my first approach will just be to try and grind the edges of the ears, so that the whole ear itself is perpendicular to the clutch dog body...since some seem to think the problem may not lay in the dog, I'd rather attempt a repair of it rather than buy a new one and still be left w/ problems.<br /><br />As it seems, there really is very little of the ear itself that actually engages w/ the backside of the gear...the dog is comparatively smaller...so I'm hoping if I can just achieve two more or less perpendicular surfaces, I can either improve (or at least maintain) engagement over what I have now.<br /><br />Per you more experienced boaters blessing...I'll procede unless otherwise admonished not to...at this point, w/ this motor, there are enough "repairs" rather than "replacements" to warrant against going all out and broke now. Thanks
 

Paul Moir

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

When the clutch dog slips, it goes right back into gear on the next half-revolution. The sudden engagement at WOT produces a very loud, and very distinct thud even in the smallest of engines, which sends a shudder through the whole boat. It feels exactly like you hit something really hard. If you search the archives, you'll see people universally describe it as a something quite violent. Does that description fit your problem?
 

AlexeiVT

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Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Well, after giving up w/ the slow progress of the hand file...I used a combination of a grinding stone, and a metal burr. I fastened the dog to a vice to assure it was sitting flat, and then put the attachments in a drill press. I marked the surfaces beforehand w/ permanent marker (and reapplied to check progress). Sort of like a "poor mans lathe"...but, so far as I can tell w/ my square bar as a reference, it looks like the edges are trued up...at this point, if I get another half dozen outing out of the motor, I'd be content (after that, hopefully some $ will find it's way to me, so fixing things while penniless wont be such an issue...can't sell off those '67 Firebird convertible project parts, no matter how dire the circumstances).<br /><br />Hopefully she'll run ok over Memorial day...I guess if it slips then, then a nw dog (and perhaps forward gear) is in order...just on an off chance, anyone know of the applicable part number for a forward gear on a '64 40HP 'rude, as I've sourced something that looks like it'd do the trick for cheap, but only have numbers to go on.<br /><br />Thanks for the help...if there is other stuff you think I should try, I'd be happy to do that, since it's more easily done now, than after a paddle back to shore.
 

AlexeiVT

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71
Re: '64 Evinrude "skips" when accelerating.

Paul...I think you may be right!<br /><br />For lack of experience, I would say that the way it feels, is sort of like I've hit a submerged log in the water.<br /><br />It is an infrequent, but certainly unpleasant experience, as the whole boat shakes.<br /><br />So then, perhaps it truly is the dog clutch...and moreso, hopefully my attempt at grinding it will help remedy it a bit (it's the last problem to just start happening, and I'll flip the dog when I reinstall it).<br /><br />It eventually became more readily apparent as to how the dog was installed, since there are visible wear marks where the removeable washer from the forward gear has eroded that side of the dog clutch.<br /><br />After looking at things, and squaring the surfaces perpendicular, it seems like there really is a pretty minute amount of surface contact being made between the ears and gears.<br /><br />I know there is a "preferred" and "correct optimal" method of repair...but by the same token (aside from being on a budget), there are just so many other shoddy repairs performed to this motor (both before my inheritance of it and nowso, that at this point to go back and fix everything "right" would seem foolish...I know I am gambling w/ each outing...but more importantly, I'm learing something new each time (and the cause and remedy).<br /><br />Thank you again for all your help...hopefully it'll go w/out a hitch next time out.<br /><br />The violent thud probably best describes the scenario...it was just after discussing the problem, I'd wondered if it was even feasible to go back into gear (I always engage F at low RPM, so figured it wouldn't even be able to be force slap shifted into F from N at WOT)...but I guess it happens (glad to tackle it early).
 
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