5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

[Mdinz]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

I would avoid the easy break method, and pull the engine.Those plugs are normally used in auto applications. Was this block changed out and the plugs were missed?
Once you have the room drill thru with 1/4 inch bit and drive an allen head wrench in .use some heat also.
Or drill it thru with the correct bit to retap it 1/4 inch pipe and use brass plugs.

I'm with ya - I think a yank job is in order. Once the engine is up out of it's hole, getting the plug out is a piece of cake.

 

[Mdinz]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

I can have the engine out in 30 minutes ( I can tell I'm getting old, there was a time when I would have said 15:lol::lol

 

[Mdinz]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Everyone - a biggggggggggggg thanks for the suggestions. I think the only proper way to take care of this problem is to pull the engine, remove the wrong plug, and fix the rest of the stuff that I find.

I guess I knew all along, but it never hurts to look for the easy way out. Some day ( the day I win the lottery) I may find it!!:happy:

Tonight I spoke with the owner of the marina where my boat collection is stored - I was told to get what I need loose, tell him and my engine will be pulled out No Charge! Thanks John - Eagles Landing rocks!!

Mark

 

[Moose truck]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Mdinz; while the engine is out, if you have room & the time, you want to install a remote oil filter. That would make it easier next time. Regards. Moose

 

[Mdinz]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Mdinz; while the engine is out, if you have room & the time, you want to install a remote oil filter. That would make it easier next time. Regards. Moose

Yes, that's on my list.

Mark

 

[Mdinz]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Engine is out - best move I could have made. In addition to being able to remove the drain plug, I found:

1. Wrong starter
2. Loose corroded wiring at starter
3.Improperly wired alternator - wires, cut, spliced, and butchered. I believe they left the orange wire off the starter which resulted in someone cutting the alternator wires and splicing into a 12v wire going to the cabin in an attempt to get it to charge. It worked, but it's sure not right.
4. Trim sender/ limit wires cut off at transom plate. Why? Who knows.
5. Nothing holding power steering cooler on except the hoses that are attached to it.
6. Both exhaust manifolds had been froze and cracked. Repaired on the bottom with epoxy.
7.No cover on flywheel housing - everything I have found says this is an obsolete part from mercruiser. I presume my only option here is to track down a used one?
8. Both front mounts are adjusted as low as they can go and the spline on the input shaft was clean shiny metal for about 1 inch, about 2 inches from the end. The mounts on the other engine are set about in the middle. I know it does not mean anything with out checking the alignment, but I have a feeling that they are way off. I'll find out when I put it back in.

It's been a long time since I had one of these apart. I seem to recall the exhaust shutters being coated with a rubber material. Mine are just steel plates on a stainless pin. Are these correct, or do I need to replace them also?

I figure that while the engine is out, there will never be an easier time to replace the shift cable, so that's on my list also.

Is there anything else I should be doing while I have easy access to the transom? I'd rather fix things now than in the boating season.

I'll take the engine to my machine shop Monday and have them yank the heads and pan to make sure everything looks ok. It obviously has been out and apart recently and is supposed to be a rebuilt short block. I can see a new pan gasket and new head gaskets. It also has brass freeze plugs. If everything checks out ok, I'm out the price of a gasket set - a small price to pay for the piece of mind knowing what I have. If they find something wrong, it may save me having to pull the engine again.

Mark

 

[dingdongs]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

glad its out but you could run it up on the floor until its hot and see if all's well b4 fitting again.sounds as if someone has gone to a lot of bodging and the manifolds are to be replaced and the shutters too.run a compression test too.

 

[Don S]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Do yourself a favor and use a new OEM cable, for the few dollars more they cost, what you get is much more. The inner cable is teflon coated, so the last longer and move smoother. None of the aftermarkets do that.

Since the front mounts are all the way down, you might want to replace the back ones. If the rear ones are weak, they will sag and that is what is causing the need for more lower movement. Make sure the transom isn't rotten too while the motor is out.

The shutters should be coated with rubber, but that rubber does go away during overheats.

 

[cyclops2]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Check if you can, the holes that hold the sterndrive on the transom..............What the heck.
You sound like you want to do a real confidence overhaul. You will need to have a realingment done with a alingment tool.
I get the marina & John, the best mechanic, to do the reassembly of engine & stern drive with a full realingment of the drive parts.

I know when to say when, on heavy stuff I never touch.

Good luck on the much needed rebuild.

Rich

 

[Mdinz]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Do yourself a favor and use a new OEM cable, for the few dollars more they cost, what you get is much more. The inner cable is teflon coated, so the last longer and move smoother. None of the aftermarkets do that.

Since the front mounts are all the way down, you might want to replace the back ones. If the rear ones are weak, they will sag and that is what is causing the need for more lower movement. Make sure the transom isn't rotten too while the motor is out.

The shutters should be coated with rubber, but that rubber does go away during overheats.

Should the shutters be OEM or is aftermarket "good enough" ? If it's only a little difference in price, I'll for sure get the OEM parts. I'd prefer to do this job one time and I'm not trying to be cheap, but on a part like this, if if I can save a few bucks to invest elsewhere in the boat.........

How about the coupler? Is there a way to check it while it's off. There is grease in it. (old, nasty looking grey colored stuff that looks more like anti-seize than grease) I was going to clean it out, examine the splines, and if they look worn, replace the coupler. I cleaned the splines on the drive and they look good. No sharp edges and they appear even for their whole length.

I believe the mounts were screwed up by the installer. I can see on the threads where the nuts were located previously. The transom is solid. Whoever did the work was incompetent. At least they only got their hands on the one engine - everything on the other looks like it did when it left the factory. This boat lived a pretty easy life ( On a lift, under a covered slip it's whole life) and was well cared for with less than 800 hours on the meters. I ordered an alignment bar off of ebay and will check and adjust the alignment on both engines when it gets here.

I'd rather spend what money I have to spend now than in the boating season, so if there's something else I'm overlooking, please let me know.

Thanks

Mark

 

[NHGuy]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Check for oil on the exterior of the motor and replace any suspect gaskets & seals.
The replacement shutters have been redesigned to a folding type, they do well on my rig.
Replace any bilge vent hose that's hardened ,torn, or tired. On my boat the mount points for the vent hoses are hard to reach with the motor in there.
Definitely remove that old dead grease from the coupler, it can cause sticking.
And of course get some nice brass petcocks for the block drains.
How do the fuel lines look? If brittle they might be easier to change when the motor is out of the way.

 

[MarkSee]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

How about the coupler?

Since you know there were issues with the motor mounts, seems like extra wear could have been placed on the coupler if it was out of alignment and though it's never good to waste money, to me replacing the coupler now would make sense.

I did a quick check and I think you have the round coupler and not the triangle style and those couplers can be had, brand new, for less than $200. Check IBOATS to see what they cost but here is a link for one (round style) for less than $100; if it's the right one for you.
Amazon.com: Engine Coupler for Older Mercruiser Chevy 110-260HP replaces 76850A2: Sports & Outdoors

Mark

 

[cyclops2]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Mark

Take your time.

Cyclops2 proverb.

When in doubt, in a tight fitting dual engine room, replace the parts. Now.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

I'd also consider replacing the starter while you can get to it.......

 

[woody66912]

Re: 5.7 Block Drain Plug Removal..... Suggestions????

Mdinz; while the engine is out, if you have room & the time, you want to install a remote oil filter. That would make it easier next time. Regards. Moose

And I would install the the blue merc plug kit also. Or better yet a brass barbed nipple with hose kit.