5.0xl/V8 mer. Where do I start?

[jacshep]

Don't know the manual without the s/n. #24 maybe?
Depending on which boot pops off either nothing will happen or the boat will sink. I'd still be checking for rot before wasting time on the mechanicals.

The floor has some weak spots in the plywood, but I don't think I'm even going to fix it. Dint see any major.cracks, or cracks.at.all and the only thing I did find is.this.rough spot on the bottom.

 

[crazy charlie]

. Last thing, I noticed the flexible pipe that goes to the drive on the back of the boat has popped off. It was only connected by a clamp so I put it back on. If it pops off while it's in the water what will happen. I got it back on but it looks like it could come off when I lift the trim.

If the "flexible pipe" you mention is a hose/tube a little bigger than a garden hose then it is your main water pickup which sends cooling water from your ourdrive to your power steering cooler and then to the motor.This could be the reason you were told it needs an impeller. Water was not getting to the engine and the first thing anyone usually thinks of is impeller.Charlie

 

[Scott06]

The floor has some weak spots in the plywood, but I don't think I'm even going to fix it. Dint see any major.cracks, or cracks.at.all and the only thing I did find is.this.rough spot on the bottom.

Look at some of the resto threads on here. Floor usually rots after the stringers and transom which are the structure of the hull. I would be drilling 1/4" holes down low in stringers and transom also in ski locker. Willing to bet they come out mush.

Do this before investing any money getting it running etc so you know what you are getting into.

 

[jacshep]

Look at some of the resto threads on here. Floor usually rots after the stringers and transom which are the structure of the hull. I would be drilling 1/4" holes down low in stringers and transom also in ski locker. Willing to bet they come out mush.

Do this before investing any money getting it running etc so you know what you are getting into.

That's a great point. Obviously the stringer in the ski locker is mush given the below picture that's where most of the soft is in the floor. I drilled into one of the support running the length of the craft and was perfect dry. Same for the sample I took of the transome.

 

[jacshep]

So I got the fuel pump installed. Looks like the impeller is in fact shot like I thought. Here is the video. Big leap for the boat!

 

[tank1949]

I'm here to learn. If I find it's not worth it early would be a great help. The body of the craft as far as I can see is solid. The wood work is hit and miss. I don't care about pretty. And does it have freeze damage? I don't know,? As for a desire to learn. I've got that.

Leard how to fiberglass and rebuild transom and/or stringers.

 

[crazy charlie]

I would not take on a project like replacing stringers.Personally I would pull the motor and put it for sale if all checks out good.Prob get 2-$3000 for a good V8.The drive also looks pretty clean probably another $1000 and give the rest away for free or scrap it.Now you should have a wallet with approx $4k in it and can shop a much nicer/better boat....but thats just me..Charlie

 

[jacshep]

I would not take on a project like replacing stringers.Personally I would pull the motor and put it for sale if all checks out good.Prob get 2-$3000 for a good V8.The drive also looks pretty clean probably another $1000 and give the rest away for free or scrap it.Now you should have a wallet with approx $4k in it and can shop a much nicer/better boat....but thats just me..Charlie

The engine did check out good. I have had 4 or 5 day trips with her now and GPS tracked topping out at 50. Im thinking about replacing the carburetor because it looks like its about time. I will probably replace the starter soon as well. Other than that I will keep it for 2 seasons and sell it for 1500 or 2k

 

[jacshep]

The engine did check out good. I have had 4 or 5 day trips with her now and GPS tracked topping out at 50. Im thinking about replacing the carburetor because it looks like its about time. I will probably replace the starter soon as well. Other than that I will keep it for 2 seasons and sell it for 1500 or 2k

View attachment VID_20240504_102557679.mp4
View attachment VID_20240504_102258045.mp4

 

[jacshep]

So I don't know if I need to start a new thread but, engine ran great for several trips but then started to run into a lack of fuel again after running for a long time and a 20 - 30 minute stop. Fuel pump was just replaced, lines not stuck. The air throttle value stays open no matter what. I'm thinking it's obviously the carburator. Sometimes it gives gas...sometimes no. I have to punch it hard and then it seems like it's good until....I stop and cut it off....I want to buy a carb..but cheapest I can find is 300 bucks...iv never rebuilt a carb, I don't have fancy tools. I took my carb off and of course filthy. What are we thinking here?

 

[dubs283]

You don't need fancy tools to rebuild a carburetor. Just the right tools, a proper quality rebuilt kit and the correct info for the procedure

There's no need to buy a new/reman carburetor. If you're unsure of your ability to rebuild the carburetor have a shop do it for you

It's in your best interest to perform a full tune up at this point as well

 

[jacshep]

You don't need fancy tools to rebuild a carburetor. Just the right tools, a proper quality rebuilt kit and the correct info for the procedure

There's no need to buy a new/reman carburetor. If you're unsure of your ability to rebuild the carburetor have a shop do it for you

It's in your best interest to perform a full tune up at this point as well

Is there a cheaper marine option? Like going to a 2 barrel or something? Mine don't have electronic choke and so it's making it hard to find a better deal.

 

[Lou C]

If you have a 4bbl carb you also have a 4bbl manifold so you should really stick with the 4bbl carb. Any carb you buy unless it is brand new might not be any better than the one you have. Usually they have to be cleaned out, new needle valve fitted, float adjusted, then fuel mixture and choke adjusted. Sometimes additional parts are needed like an accelerator pump diaphragm, depending on the carb. Looks like you have a Quadrajet, that would put it at about a 1988/89 at newest. No new Quads after that, so might as well rebuild what you have. With the Quad it is a little tricky to get the air horn off but after that it isn't bad for a rebuild. There is the choke linkage and the accell pump linkage to disconnect. There are many videos to show you how to do it properly. Those marine Quadrajets had the well type or divorced choke with the thermostatic spring mounted on top of the exhaust cross over on the intake manifold. The open a bit slowly, but work ok if the spring is ok and the linkage & choke plate are clean.
First though are you sure you don't have a clogged or rusted anti-siphon valve?

 

[Lou C]

I had that problem on my boat when I first bought it 22 years ago and I wound up taking it to a very good local mechanic and that's all it was. Rusted/stuck anti siphon valve, it is the valve that the fuel line from the pump attaches to on top of the fuel tank.

 

[Lou C]

 

[Scott06]

Is there a cheaper marine option? Like going to a 2 barrel or something? Mine don't have electronic choke and so it's making it hard to find a better deal.

Cheaper and marine are normally not said in the same sentence....

Get a carb rebuild kit from Mikes carb parts and rebuild it. Not hard to do nor does it take any fancy tools

Make sure the fuel tank is clean , check fuel filter for debris/water. You may have fuel contamination that will

 

[jacshep]

If you have a 4bbl carb you also have a 4bbl manifold so you should really stick with the 4bbl carb. Any carb you buy unless it is brand new might not be any better than the one you have. Usually they have to be cleaned out, new needle valve fitted, float adjusted, then fuel mixture and choke adjusted. Sometimes additional parts are needed like an accelerator pump diaphragm, depending on the carb. Looks like you have a Quadrajet, that would put it at about a 1988/89 at newest. No new Quads after that, so might as well rebuild what you have. With the Quad it is a little tricky to get the air horn off but after that it isn't bad for a rebuild. There is the choke linkage and the accell pump linkage to disconnect. There are many videos to show you how to do it properly. Those marine Quadrajets had the well type or divorced choke with the thermostatic spring mounted on top of the exhaust cross over on the intake manifold. The open a bit slowly, but work ok if the spring is ok and the linkage & choke plate are clean.
First though are you sure you don't have a clogged or rusted anti-siphon valve?

Im not sure I even have one. I saw that some ppl had a similar issue and people said that but I looked at my gas tank and no value at the loop I checked the out fixture on the side of the boat and no value. So I took the whole thing off the tank and all there seems to be in there is a plastic L connected to a long house just sitting in there. I blew through it just fine.

Cheaper and marine are normally not said in the same sentence....

Get a carb rebuild kit from Mikes carb parts and rebuild it. Not hard to do nor does it take any fancy tools

Make sure the fuel tank is clean , check fuel filter for debris/water. You may have fuel contamination that will

I took some pictures of what the carb looked like. For an electronic choke is all I need to do is give it 12v power from the battery? Or do I have to have sensors and things? There are cheaper options with electric choke. I don't know if you can tell from the picture but the part where the needles go into the jet is almost clogged.

 

[jacshep]

View attachment 397772

Hahahah! Thanks for the picture! I totally checked the wrong line..I accidentally checked this when I was taking the other letters nes off. I saw the ball and poked it a few times with my screw driver. It seemed to move pretty easily. Thanks again for the picture!

 

[Scott06]

Im not sure I even have one. I saw that some ppl had a similar issue and people said that but I looked at my gas tank and no value at the loop I checked the out fixture on the side of the boat and no value. So I took the whole thing off the tank and all there seems to be in there is a plastic L connected to a long house just sitting in there. I blew through it just fine.

I took some pictures of what the carb looked like. For an electronic choke is all I need to do is give it 12v power from the battery? Or do I have to have sensors and things? There are cheaper options with electric choke. I don't know if you can tell from the picture but the part where the needles go into the jet is almost clogged.

Get an ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight and soak the carb in there. You have what looks like a decent core Quadrajet that can be rebuilt. Judging from the looks of the inside would bet your fuel tank needs to come out and be douched out.

An electric choke needs 12 v off the ignition on circuit, so when the key is in run it gets power not off the battery. There is more to it than just hooking up a choke. you have a spreadbore manifold so need a spreadbore carb or square bore manifold. also throttle linkage and bracket will be different. Certainly can be worked through but I would try rebuilding yours first. The ultra sonic cleaner makes it fairly easy

I believe this is the kit you need but best to call with your carb number https://www.carburetor-parts.com/quadrajet-carburetor-rebuild-kit-k530

 

[Lou C]

That carb has a lot of crud in it, much more than mine did so yep you need a good soak in an ultrasonic cleaner or soak it in old school carb and then (put on goggles first!) blast out the passages with compressed air. One area that is a problem is the idle air tubes these can be tough to get clean if the carb was left with gunk in it. The Q Jet has both primary and secondary metering rods that have to fit the jets properly and those jets must be clean.
I have never seen a Marine QJet with an electric choke, but if you have one, it has to get 12V any time the engine is running or else it won't stay open.
I may have some pix with all the passages labeled for the QJet, I have to look and see if I can find them....
As you can see it is a fairly complex carb, people like me who started working on cars in the '70s are familiar with them especially if you had GM cars in your family, they were used on just about all the V8s from 1966-1986. The high performance versions did come with Holleys, but the Quadrajet was pretty much ubiquitous on GM V8s.