5.0GL - No Power at Coil

[Blowinup]

Sorry to not respond, was taking daughter out for her BD

Its opening quick, maybe to quick, but not going full open. It should be straight up and down.

The marine carb does not have a high idle cam like an auto. The auto has a cam the will open the throttle a slight bit more. The boat idle is increased with the throttle handle in throttle only mode

It looks like your carb is working correctly for the most part

You guys are amazing. Did you seriously just apologize for not giving me free advise because you spent time with your daughter on her birthday? Wow!

Thank for setting me straight on the difference between a street and marine Holley. I' haven't been able to find a video adjusting a marine Holley so it was all I had to work with. Glad I have you guys to educate me.

 

[Blowinup]

Your alternator may have a stud marked “stator”. It is only hot when the engine is running, it should have 12 volts. If you have that setup connect the choke to that terminal.
You do not want to use the circuit that powers the coil.
Another way is with a electric fuel pump safety switch that is normally open until there is oil pressure. With that set up you can have the switch wired to a continuous 12 volt source, this is also a good way it wire in a hour meter.

Thank kenny that is really helpful. I was in fact using the same switched 12v wire that I use to power the coil. Holley mentioned not using a 12v source coming from the coil because it only carries 8v after it's started (again this was for a street machine) so I thought it would be okay. It was a shortcut because I didn't want to follow the wire that was connected to the positive that does not have any current.

I'll look for that stator stud tomorrow. I did previously test the alternator to make sure it was producing good power and fortunately it is.

 

[alldodge]

Thank kenny that is really helpful. I was in fact using the same switched 12v wire that I use to power the coil. Holley mentioned not using a 12v source coming from the coil because it only carries 8v after it's started (again this was for a street machine) so I thought it would be okay. It was a shortcut because I didn't want to follow the wire that was connected to the positive that does not have any current.

I'll look for that stator stud tomorrow. I did previously test the alternator to make sure it was producing good power and fortunately it is.

Not contradicting, just clarifying, but only distributors with points go to 8V, all electronic stay at 12V

 

[Blowinup]

The Choke was definitely not working. As alldodge pointed out the butterfly was not fully opening. And the cam does not seem to be working at all.

Here's a video of me troubleshooting, learning and working through the process. It's easier for me to just post a vid rather than a text post. As you may have noticed I can be a bit long winded.

In this video I adjusted the choke linkage so the butterfly opened all the way. I also talk through my concerns with the cam.

I mistakenly call a cork gasket a washer. It's the vacuum passage gasket that seals vacuum passages to vacuum secondary housing. I didn't know the choke passed air needing a vacuum that required a gasket. I'll order a new one but can someone tell me the affect this may have on my carb if I run it with the gasket I have?

I compared what I see with pictures on Holley's site and it looks like there's also a piece missing in the hole where that gasket is.

In Holley's pictures it looks like there is a jet in there.


Whatever it is it's missing from mine.


Who thinks I should just put a new choke on the carb instead of hacking away on this one?

 

[Blowinup]

Not contradicting, just clarifying, but only distributors with points go to 8V, all electronic stay at 12V

I hear ya. Probably doesn't apply to my setup.

 

[Blowinup]

Looking at the linkage on Holley's site I would say mine has definitely bent bent by someone before me.

This one looks pretty straight to me; I'm referring to the bottom half.

 

[Blowinup]

I left the carb off the engine yesterday hoping I could get some advise before I put it back on. But

Can anyone help me out with these questions?

Can someone tell me the affect my vacuum passage gasket that seals vacuum passages to vacuum secondary housing (pictured above) may have on my carb if I run it with the gasket I have in such poor condition?

Who thinks I should just put a new choke on the carb instead of hacking away on this one?

I'd also really appreciate any feedback on the way I setup the choke.

Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

Put a little bit of silicon on the gasket and it should be good

I would stick with your choke for now. It is working, just need to get the adjustment right. If it isn't able to get it working right then can be replaced later without removing the carb. It should work, the choke is pretty simple

Been a while since I last rebuilt a Holley, but I'm thinking the cam goes on top of the rod. There is a slight bit of weight which will help open and keep the choke open

 

[Blowinup]

Put a little bit of silicon on the gasket and it should be good

I would stick with your choke for now. It is working, just need to get the adjustment right. If it isn't able to get it working right then can be replaced later without removing the carb. It should work, the choke is pretty simple

Been a while since I last rebuilt a Holley, but I'm thinking the cam goes on top of the rod. There is a slight bit of weight which will help open and keep the choke open

Once again your advise is spot on. I considered putting the cam over the lever but ruled it out because it required the choke spring to be preloaded. But I it seems to work well that way and makes a lot more since than my hack job.

The notches in the cam still don't seem to serve any purpose since they don't come into contact with anything. But I'm going to try not to let that bother me.

I'm still wondering about that brass fitting inside that vacuum passage that I don't have. But for now I'm just gonna put it back together and see how she runs.

Thanks again!

 

[alldodge]

The notches on the cam is used for a auto. This would be used for fast idle and would have an adjustment screw which would make contact. Boats don't need it

A boat doesn't use the vacuum source like an auto either so its not needed

 

[Blowinup]

Your alternator may have a stud marked “stator”. It is only hot when the engine is running, it should have 12 volts. If you have that setup connect the choke to that terminal.
You do not want to use the circuit that powers the coil.
Another way is with a electric fuel pump safety switch that is normally open until there is oil pressure. With that set up you can have the switch wired to a continuous 12 volt source, this is also a good way it wire in a hour meter.

I couldn't find a stud marked strator. Most are unlabeled with a few having just a letter/number combo like L2. I did however find a wire with the same color combo as the wire that has been connected to the positive terminal on the choke.

Following Holley's instruction I tested that wire for voltage with the key in the on position and found none so I thought it may be bad. But I never tested it with the motor running so if it is connected to the alternator that would make since.

I'll test the stud on the alternator that wire is connected to while the engine is running, watch for the butterfly to open and time it to see how long it takes.

Thanks kenny.

 

[Blowinup]

I discovered I have a bad alternator which explains a lot like the choke and fuel pump not working.

Looking at replacement options and considering going to a 120amp. Worth the extra $ or not necessary?

 

[kenny nunez]

Try to get the original one rebuilt, 120 amp would be good if you had some high dollar sound system in the boat. You should be able to find a rebuilder in your area.

 

[Blowinup]

Good advise kenny.

The alternator failed on my very first car I owned. I knew nothing about engines at the time so a friend pulled it for me and we went down to an alternator/starter repair shop where they rebuilt in right in front of me. I was in awe.

So my 1st thought was to find a shop like that one. But I've come up empty. When I recite the story above most folks chuckle and tell me they shops like that don't exist anymore. The closest I've found is a shop that tells me to drop it off and they will call me back in a week to let me know if mine can be repaired and if so how much it will cost and how long it will take.

I needed a faster turn around time since I have someone who wants to buy the boat. So I ordered another marine grade unit that, at least on the surface, looks exactly like mine and has the same specs. It's only a couple of hundred miles from me so I should have it within a few days.

I may still take the old one to that shop to see what they can do with it since I didn't have to provide a core for the unit I bought.

Thanks!