4s full of oil

Teseal

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
63
No idea how to deal with this, do you? I picked up a 2000 Merc 50 4stroke and loaded in my pickup head down prop up. After a 6 hour drive the truck bed was full of oil. It did sit another day or so before I could get it up and out. I found the o ring in the oil fill plug was flattened and didn't seal, nothing to worry about so I thought. Its been a week or so and just getting it setup to try and start. Seller had a video of the motor running, so I didn't do as much prep as I normally would. It's on a stand now. I removed a spark plug and found it full of oil. Remove another and oil poured out the cylinder. Removed all and hand turn it over and pumped oil out of every cylinder. Any suggestion on how to deal with this???
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,046
with the plugs out crank it with the starter, "be sure the oil is reading full on the dip stick"" once the oil stops blurting out , put the pluks back in and hook up the leads.
the motor will fire once the plugs are back in hold the RPM to 1500 > 2000 , it will smoke a lot but don't worry , it will eventually clear up after an min or so.
for peace of mind you could replace with new plugs once the smoke clears , however you should be fine.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,968
Motors must be laid down the correct way.-----So ---Agreed get the oil out of the cylinders.-----Add oil to crankcase to correct level.----Start the motor.-----Install a new water pump impeller.----Enjoy the motor.
 

Teseal

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
63
OK Guys thx, that's what I'll do. I agree about laying it down, I had it the right way but I don't know how the owner had it stored off the boat.

Looks like I have a leak in the hydraulics to fix as well but I'll let you know how it works out. Thx
 

Teseal

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
63
Just a follow up. I did pump the oil out as suggested and didn't stop until the oil mist did. To my surprise it popped right off, smoked a bit, but wasn't running very good after the smoke stopped. Found one of the spark plug caps had an open 5k resistor. Waiting for parts now but thinking when I get all 4 firing it will run ok.
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,159
Smaller motors actually have a decal usually that says this side up for transport
 

Teseal

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
63
Update. Got it firing on all four but still problems so went ahead and cleaned the carbs. Got it re-assembled doing some of the preliminary adjustments for the carb linkage and discovered that the choke unloader adjustment screw and mounting tab had been broken off. Looks like it was made of plastic(?) That's the carb #4 linkage in the pic. The unloader lever and adjustment are not a part that can be purchased and replaced, guess it is considered part of the carb. Found a used carb for $300 but that's a bit steep just for a piece of plastic. I'm thinking possibly I can jury rig one if I can find a pic to use as a guide. Seems this outboard has a complex "auto start choke" system, maybe the whole thing can be converted to manual somehow. Anyway I sure am open for suggestions.
 

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Teseal

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
63
I did make a part for the choke unloader, it's not pretty but seems to be working and was able to make all the preliminary mechanical adjustments. Once the JB weld is cured I'll get the carbs mounted and we'll see where it's at. I haven't seen to many newer motors so the choke circuit on this 50 is a bit surprising, not sure I understand why the choke default appears to be in the closed position and the throttle linkage takes it off choke every time it the throttle is advanced. Being closed cold makes sense but where is the choke once the engine warms up?
 

Teseal

Seaman
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
63
OK answered my own question, the springs should return the choke to open once the electrotherm device releases but they are not. Seems the springs on the choke shaft levers aren't getting it done unless the choke solenoid core is in an exact position perpendicular to the swing. Appears the choke solenoid core is binding a bit preventing the chokes from opening sometimes.

Is there suppose to be a spring inside the solenoid to help push it out to help the chokes close?
 
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