40 HP VRO Engine Problems

[G DANE]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

Hi EDU<br /><br />I live in the southern seeland. I could sound like you maybe are loosing lower cylinder, it can iddle on one OK. Try to remove the lower cylinder spark plug wire, attach it to an extra plug, grounded so it can spark in the air ( or you may damage power pack ) Start it and if it runs like before the lower cyl is dead. If it is so, you probably have a bad reed leaf. Post back when you know.

 

[xwingz2]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

Where is the Reed Valve? I am understanding that it is somewhere in the intake manifold... Is this correct... Something that cannot be repaired while on vacation~ If someone could please confirm where they are and how they are repaired it would be great.<br /> <br /><br />Still puttering around~ <br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Trey F.

 

[G DANE]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

Hi EDU<br /><br />First you have to verify if it runs on only one cylinder. Another test to to is: remove air silencer cover. Start motor. If you have a bad reed ( which is quite rare, but seen now and then ) it will spit a significant amount of fuel/air mixture back thru that carb when running at iddle. From what you have explained, i would lean towards the theory that the high speed circuit on lower carb is restricted somehow, but the reed issue could be cause of the problem too, I experienced that myselves. A reed failure will develop suddenly, within 5 minutes while running, typically at lower speeds.

 

[xwingz2]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

I think that is the drop of the hat... There is allot of fuel comming back through the carbs at idle and when the carbs are open. I guess from this it is safe to assume that the reed valves are bad. Where are they? How are they repaired?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Trey F.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

EDU.... The red lever on the primer solenoid should be in the automatic position. This allows the fuel to pass through it in order to prime (choke) the engine when you press in the ignition switch key.<br /><br />The automatic position for that red lever is having the lever turned all the way so that it faces the other end of the solenoid (over top of the solenoid, not away from it).<br /><br />I don't like to run down anyone, but your mechanic comes across as one who is lacking somewhat in knowledge pertaining to your engine. It would be best to search for someone that is more knowledgeable in the OMC outboard marine line.<br /><br />The carburetor float level should be adjusted with the carburetor being upside down (as you mention), and have the end of the float (when viewed from the side) opposite the hinge pin ever so slightly higher (off level).<br /><br />The float when viewed from the end should be straight across (not cocked).<br /><br />Although you say the carbs have been rebuilt, it sounds like something is still wrong in that area. I'd suggest that you re-check the carbs and make sure of the float settings, and also make sure that the fixed brass high speed jets (in the bottom center of the float chambers) are perfectly clean.<br /><br />The above last paragraph is assuming that the compression and spark are as they should be and the reed valve(s) are okay.

 

[xwingz2]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

Joe,<br /><br /> I thank you for your help with this. There is no doubt that the mechanic that has been working on this boat might be short a few screws... The problem is finding someone to work on it who is not going to take me for a ride. At any rate... <br /><br />This engine has had this problem from day one when I bought the boat 5 years ago. When I took it for a test run before I bought it...it was doing it... I was assured that the engine would run so... I reluctantly bought it. Well... as it turned out the engine did run...but the issue is... Between the time that it did not run and the time that it did... NOTHING was done to the engine... I think the time period of a winter passed and then I took it out the following spring and it ran like a charm... so I thought nothing of it... Thought that something got in the carbs and it just worked itself out. <br /><br />On this thread someone was telling me that because there is fuel in the carbs while running that this is the reed valves are bad... Is this right or wrong? <br /><br />I work on CARS (racecars) not marine engines and I know only the basics about this thing... <br /><br />A local marina will sell me a set of NEW carbs for 250 dollars... Would you recommend buying them and putting them on?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Trey F.

 

[G DANE]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

EDU<br /><br />If this problem occurred during sitting in the winther, check and see if the stator moves freely and ignition advances all the way when you open throttle. This model has a spring in the linckage making it possible that the stator plate stays at low advance if "frozen". It will run bad then. It is easier to see if throttle cable is removed and you move throttle from iddle to full by hand. Will the stator plate follow without delay ??

 

[G DANE]

Re: 40 HP VRO Engine Problems

EDU<br /><br />I thing Joe can give you a safe way of determing if a reed is faulty.