FiskandShi
Recruit
- Joined
- May 12, 2023
- Messages
- 5
Good summer, reader and first time poster. 1990 4.3l cobra ESA 2bbl in an 18 ft fish and ski.
Tl
r bogging and stalling on hard accel caused me to learn to check ESA and its not too bad. If you have a 30yo boat with occassional bog, test the overstroke switch by holding with a screw driver and then move the Interruptor, your cable jiggle on hard accel or trimming may be bogging from the Interruptor activating ESA ignition time when it shouldn't.
Ran well as a kid, could pull me up in deep water on a slalom. Years later I take a few rebuild attempts, a few trips to mechanics, and some get me a few hours a year. Start learning but after the last mechanic trip, and shaking out gremlins, occassionally to more often is bogging in the hole shot or on acceleration. I rebuild carb, messed with the nonadjust float 15-20 times, fuel filter and lines (surely has junk), drained tank, carb adjustments to no end, search this forum and hull truth, and rarely see the ESA in the bogging and stall. Last mechanic adjusted it and said cable was good, all set. I didn't dig into the shift arm for fear of knocking out a good adjustment. Although I still need an adjustment tool, I spent special tool budget on gimbal align and install tool for bellows this year, equally tepid waters for me but I installed a trans in my 5.3l and stayed at a Holiday inn in the last year... I have the ESA with an overstroke switch. So while wanking off with all the other repeated maintenance, and dropping prop down just to get a wakeboarder up on plane, I took a good look at the microswitches on the shift arm, and learned what Interruptor switch and Overstroke (i.e. ignore the Interruptor because I'm in gear and headed to party mode, cable is just jiggling) switch - and I see - at any long rate - the overstroke isn't doing anything. I was just keeping the Interruptor from triggering with throttle adjustment and angry jerks anytime it bogged down accelerating quickly - cable jiggle. In my defense, it ran well enough, or seemed like fuel delivery was a problem. I haven't tested old one to see if he had just bypassed the overstroke, more below on how he may have (un)knowingly done that.
I see that the overstroke is not used everywhere - a convo with the mechanic that I remember - and he may have not understood why bypassing to "be like mercruiser" or later-made timer-based Interruptor-only models. What really helps by knowing this - or however the mechanic may have bypassed - the replacement switch has both switches with the boot to the esa; Im replacing the Interruptor too. It was shipped where both microswitches (Interruptor and Overstroke) are separate (albeit short) circuits.. not running in series like the wiring diagram... well wth. Pluck the wires out instead of splicing, reset them to be a single circuit in the boot - using a tiny jumper wire in the boot... to just avoid another splice.. importantly had to know how it could have come and how to set it up for this OMC ESA module. And I think, after testing the overstroke is setting the Interruptor "to silent"/ignore when it knows its in gear and might hit party time quick acceleration... I'll be able to get the oldest nephew and myself on plane with a ski.
Arguably, it may have a little more cable jiggle or stiffness, but the trim causing the motor to bog (seemed like a alternator issue.. right) and several other things made me finally find it. If you have a bog on acceleration, test those microswitches because you cannot see it in the driveway without that.
I do plan to do a transom unless this experience has turned my newlywed wife off this boat, so I hope that's an introduction here, "channel" cred, and will hopefully appreciate a lesson I learned harder than needed. For the wife, I said that even the new ones do this and will have to shell out for parts at a similar rate. Arguably all the manuals would help, but the popular one has the info on ESA switches, and on these forums, but hopefully this will save someone some time if they have the same symptoms. Feel free to hurl questions or insults - appreciate the forum and just had not found one on here that addresses stalling and bogging on hard acceleration caused by overstroke broke or wired wrong. New pigtail, $125. Wife learning how boats. Woof. Godly patience.
Central IN 1990 VIP Fish and Ski 185 4.3l cobra ii 15p 14.75in prop
Tl
r bogging and stalling on hard accel caused me to learn to check ESA and its not too bad. If you have a 30yo boat with occassional bog, test the overstroke switch by holding with a screw driver and then move the Interruptor, your cable jiggle on hard accel or trimming may be bogging from the Interruptor activating ESA ignition time when it shouldn't. Ran well as a kid, could pull me up in deep water on a slalom. Years later I take a few rebuild attempts, a few trips to mechanics, and some get me a few hours a year. Start learning but after the last mechanic trip, and shaking out gremlins, occassionally to more often is bogging in the hole shot or on acceleration. I rebuild carb, messed with the nonadjust float 15-20 times, fuel filter and lines (surely has junk), drained tank, carb adjustments to no end, search this forum and hull truth, and rarely see the ESA in the bogging and stall. Last mechanic adjusted it and said cable was good, all set. I didn't dig into the shift arm for fear of knocking out a good adjustment. Although I still need an adjustment tool, I spent special tool budget on gimbal align and install tool for bellows this year, equally tepid waters for me but I installed a trans in my 5.3l and stayed at a Holiday inn in the last year... I have the ESA with an overstroke switch. So while wanking off with all the other repeated maintenance, and dropping prop down just to get a wakeboarder up on plane, I took a good look at the microswitches on the shift arm, and learned what Interruptor switch and Overstroke (i.e. ignore the Interruptor because I'm in gear and headed to party mode, cable is just jiggling) switch - and I see - at any long rate - the overstroke isn't doing anything. I was just keeping the Interruptor from triggering with throttle adjustment and angry jerks anytime it bogged down accelerating quickly - cable jiggle. In my defense, it ran well enough, or seemed like fuel delivery was a problem. I haven't tested old one to see if he had just bypassed the overstroke, more below on how he may have (un)knowingly done that.
I see that the overstroke is not used everywhere - a convo with the mechanic that I remember - and he may have not understood why bypassing to "be like mercruiser" or later-made timer-based Interruptor-only models. What really helps by knowing this - or however the mechanic may have bypassed - the replacement switch has both switches with the boot to the esa; Im replacing the Interruptor too. It was shipped where both microswitches (Interruptor and Overstroke) are separate (albeit short) circuits.. not running in series like the wiring diagram... well wth. Pluck the wires out instead of splicing, reset them to be a single circuit in the boot - using a tiny jumper wire in the boot... to just avoid another splice.. importantly had to know how it could have come and how to set it up for this OMC ESA module. And I think, after testing the overstroke is setting the Interruptor "to silent"/ignore when it knows its in gear and might hit party time quick acceleration... I'll be able to get the oldest nephew and myself on plane with a ski.
Arguably, it may have a little more cable jiggle or stiffness, but the trim causing the motor to bog (seemed like a alternator issue.. right) and several other things made me finally find it. If you have a bog on acceleration, test those microswitches because you cannot see it in the driveway without that.
I do plan to do a transom unless this experience has turned my newlywed wife off this boat, so I hope that's an introduction here, "channel" cred, and will hopefully appreciate a lesson I learned harder than needed. For the wife, I said that even the new ones do this and will have to shell out for parts at a similar rate. Arguably all the manuals would help, but the popular one has the info on ESA switches, and on these forums, but hopefully this will save someone some time if they have the same symptoms. Feel free to hurl questions or insults - appreciate the forum and just had not found one on here that addresses stalling and bogging on hard acceleration caused by overstroke broke or wired wrong. New pigtail, $125. Wife learning how boats. Woof. Godly patience.
Central IN 1990 VIP Fish and Ski 185 4.3l cobra ii 15p 14.75in prop
