4.3 vortec Mercruiser..lots of questions

[43vortec]

I'm a proud owner of a 2001 185 4.3 Vortec..IDK if the motor runs yet but I'm super excited about it. Long story short but I grabbed this 185 from an owner who didn;t took care of it and I'm hoping to bring it back to life.
So water got into the motor, I think due to a valve cover gasket that was not installed properly. Boat was outside without cover/shrinkwrap year around and water got into the motor. Owner decided to removed the dipstick tube to drain the oil right in the bilge..absolutely disgusting. Now that I have cleaned the inside so I can start working on it, I finally remove the valve cover in question to fix the gasket and noticed the milky oil in there, nothing crazy but its noticeable.
Yes, motor does turn over. I just purchased everything I need for a tune up this weekend.

 

[43vortec]

I also need help finding the S/N for this motor...I've looked everywhere:

 

[43vortec]

 

[43vortec]

 

[Scott Danforth]

that is the part number of the intake manifold. the serial number of the motor will be riveted just above the starter boss or on the top of the spark arrestor (that you appeared to have whited out in the photo)

 

[Scott06]

Did water get down the intake into the engine combustion chambers?

Look for signs of freeze damage if you are in a northern climate. If not winterized you will typically see freeze cracks on exhaust manifolds, outside of block by oil pan rail, and in lifter valley. Might be worth pressure testing cooling system and looking in spark plug holes with scope camera. If cracked or rusty (likely) no sense messing with it as you will need new engine.

Not sure how a valve cover gasket could lead to water in the engine?

 

[43vortec]

Did water get down the intake into the engine combustion chambers?

Look for signs of freeze damage if you are in a northern climate. If not winterized you will typically see freeze cracks on exhaust manifolds, outside of block by oil pan rail, and in lifter valley. Might be worth pressure testing cooling system and looking in spark plug holes with scope camera. If cracked or rusty (likely) no sense messing with it as you will need new engine.

Not sure how a valve cover gasket could lead to water in the engine?

externally I can not see any cracks anywhere, the engine seems to be in great shape (externally). I just picked up this boat up last friday and need to do a bit more troubleshooting. Previous owner removed the dipstick tube and oil plug dumping oil right in the bilge. I'm trying to get all of this put together before attempting to get it started.

 

[Scott06]

externally I can not see any cracks anywhere, the engine seems to be in great shape (externally). I just picked up this boat up last friday and need to do a bit more troubleshooting. Previous owner removed the dipstick tube and oil plug dumping oil right in the bilge. I'm trying to get all of this put together before attempting to get it started.

yeah sounds like you are cleaning up after a idiot... If it were mine I would pressure test cooling system, do a cold compression test, and look in cylinders with bore scope before dropping time and money into it

 

[kenny nunez]

I bet that if you pull the drive the driveshaft bellows will have water in it. Have you tried the power tilt, it may have water in it also. If you pull the drive then it would be a good time to pull the engine. That way you can clean the bilge and do any repairs from water damage.

 

[43vortec]

I bet that if you pull the drive the driveshaft bellows will have water in it. Have you tried the power tilt, it may have water in it also. If you pull the drive then it would be a good time to pull the engine. That way you can clean the bilge and do any repairs from water damage.

Yes power tilt works, but I haven’t done anything else besides that

 

[43vortec]

yeah sounds like you are cleaning up after a idiot... If it were mine I would pressure test cooling system, do a cold compression test, and look in cylinders with bore scope before dropping time and money into it

help me out here..the only thing i have on had is an HVAC vaccum pump with all hoses and gauges. but I dont think that would work right? I think I will have to find a harbor freights

 

[Lou C]

If you do a search on this forum people have posted up on how to air pressure test the cooling system passages, you need some hose & adapters and a small air compressor. These engines are actually quite rugged and simple to repair but the one Achilles heel of them is raw water cooling. If left with water in the engine & it hits freezing even just once it’s new engine time. I’ve said this many times if I ever re power mine it’s getting a half closed cooling system for the block. That way the winterizing is much easier. At my age getting at those block drains has become a trial . With that I just have to drain the H/E & manifolds & raw water hose; easy. Good luck; I brought mine back from a bad overheat & blown head gaskets & cracked cyl heads. Repaired all that & installed new center riser exhaust for about $2,000 my cost; still running the original untouched short block, pistons crank cam & lifters. Like I said; rugged and cheap to repair.

 

[Scott06]

help me out here..the only thing i have on had is an HVAC vaccum pump with all hoses and gauges. but I dont think that would work right? I think I will have to find a harbor freights

No you just need compressed air. Basically you block off the cooling system hoses T in an air line quick disconnect and pressure gauge , put 15 psi in and it should hold indefinitely . Since the PO wasnt that bright would just verify before you get too excited.

 

[Pmt133]

No you just need compressed air. Basically you block off the cooling system hoses T in an air line quick disconnect and pressure gauge , put 15 psi in and it should hold indefinitely . Since the PO wasnt that bright would just verify before you get too excited.

You can also rent a universal cooling system tester from any auto parts store. Block the hoses and jam it in the thermostat housing or circulating pump hose and plug the other side. That's how I did mine.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I use a mity-vac 8500 for vacuum and pressure testing. I also use it for vacuum bleeding brakes, verifying vacuum actuators, etc.

 

[43vortec]

if that is where the dipstick tube connects to..the block most likely is cracked internally. I just decided to connect a garden hose to one of the cooling hoses and water is pouring out of that fitting.

 

[Scott Danforth]

water out of that is not a good sign

 

[kenny nunez]

it looks like you will need a replacement engine.

 

[43vortec]

it looks like you will need a replacement engine.

yea need to figure out my options...manifolds along with everything else looks fine. fiberglass is in great condition. I paid $200 for it with trailer

 

[Scott06]

yea need to figure out my options...manifolds along with everything else looks fine. fiberglass is in great condition. I paid $200 for it with trailer

Test the manifolds with acetone before reusing them. Acetone will wick through cracks better than water.

cheapest way is to get a truck 4.3 fro. Wrecking yard and Marinize it.

if there is room in front yiu could upgrade to a 5.0/5.7 fairly easily too.

I did a similar project in winter of 2015/16. 2004 Sea Ray200 sport . po had cracked the 4.3 only had 37 hrs. Bought a partial 5.0 with exhaust manifolds swapped accessories off the 4.3 did it fairly cheap.