We spent 8 hours pretty much non-stop on Thursday to replace everything (exhaust manifolds, carb rebuild, water pump, and thermostat). We had to lift engine up a little bit to remove one of the manifolds which took the longest. All said and done with his labor/parts I am at about $1300. Boat started great Thursday night on muffs after he adjusted carb, yesterday on muffs, and this morning on muffs. NO HYDROLOCK!!
My only complaint is the boat was hard to start this morning. I ended up pouring a couple milliliter of gas (very very little) into carb to get it to start. I used to only have to do this a week after I haven't run boat, not the next day. Not sure what to do about this.
But most importantly NO HYDROLOCK! Didn't see any leaks under the engine either. Before I had some from the seeping water pump so hard to tell if water was coming elsewhere.
I am taking it to the lake today for the first time this season (high of 88 today!). Here's to hoping we don't get stranded!
some of the 4.3's had drains on the front of the intake manifold, 9/16" square plug, if this was not removed at winterize the intake may freeze crack
also, with no visible exterior cracks in the block/manifold the blocks are notorioous for cracking in the valley
Well yesterday I said I had the "chocolate milkshake" but I just said that because thats what everyone refers to it as. But mine really doesn't look anything like a chocolate milkshake. It is actually like a dark olive green color and really smells of fuel really bad. There is no chunkiness, foaminess or anything, and it is very thin.
My oil had a slight fuel smell to it before I had the carburetor rebuilt, but the color appeared good. Not the color is really weird.
I tried to duplicate the color by mixing new oil with water, fuel, water/fuel combo, and even tried boiling all these combinations. Couldn't get anything close to the olive green color.
I realize all signs are pointing to an internal cracked block but this just confuses me.
Any thoughts?
Put the oil in a glass container and let it sit. You will know by the next day if there is water in it. Fuel in the oil won't do this. You could have a crack somewhere. Draining and pouring in antifreeze is a good way to crack a block. Nobody does that where I live and its -40 all winter.
The oil sat for over 24 hours and had time to separate. Here are a couple pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/db3cduv6bxoo1ld/d8m83B3ggx
I do not understand your comment about pouring antifreeze as a good way to crack a block. How is that possible?
The mercruiser manual says to pour antifreeze down the hoses. I recently noticed that I poured antifreeze down 3 hoses off the t-stat housing: hose to left manifold, hose to right manifold, and intake hose (when I poured it in it went out the lower unit muff holes). So really no antifreeze would have gotten into block. The antifreeze was hardly in the boat very long. I just poured it in to help dilute any water and the manual said to. I then pulled all five plugs.
I then pulled all five plugs.
When you pour antifreeze into the engine you risk diluting it with any water left in the block due to plugged drain ports ect. Then you end up with a large amount of diluted antifreeze that will turn into a solid at far warmer temps than -40. Maybe minus 10? Who knows.
Then come spring you have a cracked block.
I read that antifreeze thing in my brand new 4.3 manual two years ago. Needless to say I never followed that advice. Like bondo is always saying, "air don't freeze".
I bet antifreeze in the number one cause of cracked blocks come spring. .
I did not check this yet as I'm not really sure what exactly the intake manifold entails. After searching, it looks like it is what the carb connects to? If thats the case, how would it freeze if it doesn't have water going through it? (I'm a novice so bare with me!)did you check to see if there is a plug in the front of the intake manifold??
Can you please point me in the right direction on how to do this?Maybe you could try doing a pressure test and find where the air is coming from before ripping into the motor.
I did not check this yet as I'm not really sure what exactly the intake manifold entails. After searching, it looks like it is what the carb connects to? If thats the case, how would it freeze if it doesn't have water going through it?
Earlier you said you pulled 5 plugs, my 4.3 has 4 drain plugs, 1 on each exhaust manifold and 1 on each side of the engine block. Then I pulled all the hoses to let the water out of them. Your last post you said you just drained the block, I wonder if not taking the hoses off could have let some water stay inside, just a thought. Where is the 5th plug you talked about?