350mag Mpi

[Masinc]

Hi folks,
So I now own a very used/abused/neglected SeaRay 220 Select (2006/7) S/N SERV2078H607 with a 2014 Mercruiser repower 350MagMpi P/N 803611R11 S/N 1G406137
with ECM 8M0085882 Alpha. I have reached out to SeaRay and got a confirmation on the prop/bravoIII outdrive/and 350MagMpi setup as delivered originally.
Previous ownership has made a mess of the wiring and SeaRay is (as time permits) trying to gather some wiring data for me. As for the powerplant,,I have set up a Mercury/Mercruiser account and now to get to the point. How do I determine what books I should ask for? I bought the tool kit to check alignment/gimble bearing tools/bellows tools. None of the digital display portion of console gauges work so I cant see any ECM messaging. I would like to get the gauges replaced and wondering if they would be a better investment than a diagnostic kit. I have already found/fixed the fuel tank sender leak and fixed the drain plug leak (broken flange screw with no urethane sealant). Boat floats and runs but it is weak and stutters a bit above 3000rpm and is limited to 4200 rpm. Thanks for any directions to threads that better suit my questions.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You get the manuals for the motor/drive/fuel injection from Mercruiser for your 2014 motor

You get the boat (not motor) documents from SeaRay

 

[Masinc]

Compression checked with none under 175. Plugs have about 6hrs (hour meter inop) since new and they all look clean and dry. Scheduled for diagnostic visit this Friday. Tech suspects the stuttering at 3000rpm may be switches (positions) on throttle/shift brackets.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your gauge is off as new motor spec is 150 psi. However as long as your gauge reads with a 10psi window across all 8 compression is good

Check fuel pressure

 

[Masinc]

2014 Merc Reman S/N 1G406137 P/N 803611R11 with ECM (2014) P/N 8M0058582 Alpha.
Will do on gauge. Missed my opertunity today to shop/buy merc book applicable to this engine. Hopefully diagnostic tech can advise at Friday’s visit so that I can study how to check fuel pressure. I found what I think was the WOT limitation. The perfect pass system is out of rig (as well as missing some console control components) and had a lot of cable lost motion. That is rectified and unplugged at the servo now. Will circle back to that after the new counsole gauge investment is dealt with. The previous owner just prior to sale had some service work done which included new fuel filter. The test ride was limited due to low fuel (and fumes). After we got it home I lifted the bench seat/engine encloser and deck covering the fuel tank and ooohhh yeah what a mess. Someone had the fuel sensor out and didnt know/care that it only fits one way and on the last screw they just angled at the hole and broke it off. Fuel getting out if filled or sloshed and water getting in. Appearantly the same screw person broke one off in the transom drain and no urethane sealant so it was taking on water. They removed the bilge float switch and installed a new pump/switch combo BUT left the naked float switch wire loose under the engine. Perfect insurance gig. Anyhow I removed fuel sensor, drew out the last of the fuel and water and correctly refit sensor with new gaskets and washers. Pressure soap tested tank and hoses with no leaks. Insulated and secured old wire. Dremel tooled the broken drain screw and fixed transom leak. All of that water/fuel issue now has me concerned about the fuel injector nozzle conditions. Buy new or have cleaned? Maybe after some hard work we have us a keeper. Can’t see selling the old girl now. Getting kinda attached.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You have an MPI motor. Screw a 60psi pressure gauge into the Schroeder valve and read the pressure

 

[Masinc]

Found the fuel px test fitting. Looks like my Optimax rig will work here too. Will check this afternoon. Tks again.

 

[Masinc]

Visited diagnostic tech today. Shows 206 hrs since 2014 merc reman. It has the ECM555 so now I can get the correct Rhinda adapter. Fuel pressure initial key on will make 42-43 psi on new gauge. Idle to 1500 is 35 and 3000 is 37. Books from Merc are ordered but may be a few days. New Merc speedo and tach ordered so we can see more of the engine data and get er back to how she was. Data showed no indication of IAC faults, no fuel injector faults (unplugged each one to see if they have any effect (they do but not on the diagnostic rig). It did show the overspeed capture and it made the long tone beep so that works. It also showed the shift switch tricked with screw driver. Tech suggested new IAC and muffler(ordered) and suggested the throttle cables are old and troublesome (2016 dated on both). After that critique I was able to finally mimic the low idle (wake zone) stall with short beep after hard running by tricking the aft shift switch just by pressing on cable connections. Oil temp messured at filter and oil pan only got to 167*f running on the muffs. Lots to do before any river trips. Putting in new comm radio and connecting to the helix 7.

 

[alldodge]

Fuel pressure initial key on will make 42-43 psi on new gauge. Idle to 1500 is 35 and 3000 is 37.

Fuel pressure is low, should be closer to 43 when running. Not enough pressure means less fuel then what is needed to run

Changing parts just to change parts is a bad idea. While the IAC muffler is just a piece of foam and not bad to replace being it's like a air filter, but the IAC replacement should not be done without a fault

 

[dubs283]

Faulty IAC won't always set a fault, but maybe the first shot from the cannon has been fired

I'd be curious to know the complete fault history. More of what faults were present as opposed to one's not set

Can't say I've ever noted a date code on control cables, oem or otherwise. Ignition wires and hoses/lines yes

Based on provided info I'd be focusing on ignition and fuel supply as well as abating the perfect pass system

Is this an EC engine?

 

[Masinc]

Faulty IAC won't always set a fault, but maybe the first shot from the cannon has been fired

I'd be curious to know the complete fault history. More of what faults were present as opposed to one's not set

Can't say I've ever noted a date code on control cables, oem or otherwise. Ignition wires and hoses/lines yes

Based on provided info I'd be focusing on ignition and fuel supply as well as abating the perfect pass system

Is this an EC engine?

All advice accepted. Thanks much. Negative Emmisions control. I will be ordering my own data collection kit. Cant afford to haul it 1.5hrs one way only to have them say their printer is out of service and internet down so they couldnt coordinate with Merc. I tried to take pictures of his computer screen while he had it up to see but that didnt leave me much. Poor guy didnt even remember there is a rigging tool for the shift/throttle links up on the exhaust. He was steadily headed for the out drive link tools. In his defense though,, he looked like the only motivated fella there. In that I am able to consistantly stall the engine at idle just by fiddling with the linkage/shift switches or just slowly shifting from the console, I am first going to sort out the stiff cables….and yeah they are exceptionally hard to move. I dont have books yet so I wont be making drastic changes. I suspect the fuel pump was damaged (low pressure) with water due to the idiots breaking sensor screws off in fuel tank and leaving wires unattended under the engine. No wonder Merc (as well as many other OEMs) have so many hoops to jump thru to get help. The coil has the little “module” attached to it and previous experience with a nearly identical part in another machine suggests that even a small amount of moisture in it will corrode the tiny circuit board so just for piece of mind I plan for a new one. Make old one a spare for emergancy. Gotta get shed built for the ole girl so I gonna let er rest a bit and get to studying in the evening to resolve the engine issue. Again thanks for any ideas.

 

[Scott Danforth]

All advice accepted. Thanks much. Negative Emmisions control. I will be ordering my own data collection kit. Cant afford to haul it 1.5hrs one way only to have them say their printer is out of service and internet down so they couldnt coordinate with Merc. I tried to take pictures of his computer screen while he had it up to see but that didnt leave me much. Poor guy didnt even remember there is a rigging tool for the shift/throttle links up on the exhaust. He was steadily headed for the out drive link tools. In his defense though,, he looked like the only motivated fella there. In that I am able to consistantly stall the engine at idle just by fiddling with the linkage/shift switches or just slowly shifting from the console, I am first going to sort out the stiff cables….and yeah they are exceptionally hard to move. I dont have books yet so I wont be making drastic changes. I suspect the fuel pump was damaged (low pressure) with water due to the idiots breaking sensor screws off in fuel tank and leaving wires unattended under the engine. No wonder Merc (as well as many other OEMs) have so many hoops to jump thru to get help. The coil has the little “module” attached to it and previous experience with a nearly identical part in another machine suggests that even a small amount of moisture in it will corrode the tiny circuit board so just for piece of mind I plan for a new one. Make old one a spare for emergancy. Gotta get shed built for the ole girl so I gonna let er rest a bit and get to studying in the evening to resolve the engine issue. Again thanks for any ideas.

replace the cables.

stiff cables with an alpha will trip the shift interupt. which may cause it to stall while shifting.

stiff upper cables are usually an indication of the boat being submerged. However they generally last about 15 years. your boat is coming up on 18

 

[Masinc]

replace the cables.

stiff cables with an alpha will trip the shift interupt. which may cause it to stall while shifting.

stiff upper cables are usually an indication of the boat being submerged. However they generally last about 15 years. your boat is coming up on 18

 

[alldodge]

Seeing it's over heating and going to guardian
Is anything else happening

 

[Masinc]

Seeing it's over heating and going to guardian
Is anything else happening

So the brief verbal history during the sale/test ride was they had very recently installed a new thermostat. Interestingly after money changed hands he admitted an insurance claim that he pocketed the money and had a private entity remove and “fix” the outdrive and put a fuel pump on it. I guess between that issue and the youngsters running the props thru the gravel it probably took on water again and got into the fuel tank thru the broken sender screws and gaskets. Since I have had it running I have never seen the console gauge reach 170. After several hours of videos I am prepairing for addressing the stiff shift cables and I feel pretty sure that will help the low idle stalls. Then I once we get the books I am going to dive into the steering issue. That will be a serious event I am sure.

 

[Masinc]

Hi folks,
100degrees today so little bit of prep work for new boat shed and yard work was about it. However I did some more poking around in the engine bay. Attached are a few pics of plugs I cannot identify. Books soon I hope. One pic is of a tagged harness that says diagnostic (2006) with un-asigned (tach) plug. Our tech guy made his connection in back of engine that currently has a blue cable connected to it that appears again in console. Another pic is also in back of engine with plug marked with 4 wire colors. Another was tucked under the distibutor cap that looks like maybe a water pressure sensor(?) and empty plug. And yet another is what I refer to as ugly. That splined shaft entering the coupling sure looks like dry powdered aluminum all over it. Neither of the grease fittings appear to have any grease on them. “Just serviced” as the previous owner proclaimed. I knew this project would be a training adventure. Added to the mix is the side to side (steering) slack in the the leg. Probably 1-1/2”. I was able to disconnect the upper end of shift cable at the switch bracket on exhaust elbow and the console works pretty smooth with no more resistance than my Optimax. But the shift cable down to leg is smooth but very stiff. So I guess at this point is where I would ask advice from the knowlegable regsrding how to develope a reasonably comprehensive work scope to head off pulling engine twice or out drive more than needed. Plz also advise if there is a membership dues payment or donation process, etc. for folks helping me.

 

[alldodge]

First pic looks like a fuse
Second pic looks like a 555 DLC connector
Third pic looks like MEFI 3 DLC connector
Fourth no clue

Being you have 555 ECM then I would go with pic 2

 

[Masinc]

Made it to the river and back today. All the latest efforts have made a bit of positive change. Saw 50mph one time but I think the wind was helping. 47 tops on all other WOT runs. Oil pressure stays up 40-50 now unless I really try to screw up the shft/neutral operation but even then it stays up nearly 20psi. Never died during dock operations and no beeps. Ran much smoother and never heard that odd growl around 2500-3000 it made in the past. (Polished some more of the gravel damge out of props too). Humminbird worked without a miss on depth readings (relocated the sensor left side of drive). Emergancy comm/weather radio works. New electronic gauges are suppossed to be here next week to make a big dent in this restoration. This one will definately stay in the family for a while. Thanks to all for the advisories.