so guys it’s now about time for me to deal with my friends engine issues. I’m decent enough with my own current and precious engines. Mpi 5.0 and all variants of GM engines before that in carb form. This 350 mpi with Bravo 3 is a new challenge.
First issue (previously touched on last year)
the engine snapped its belt and creeped towards the upper end of the temp range and just over at about 180/190 and was noticed almost instantly. He shut it down and was towed in. Fitted the new belt. All was well for 10 mins then it started to overheat at slow rpm. Bring the revs up and it would settle down. Naturally I thought it must be the impeller on the front of engine...later asking myself why this would suddenly go bad if it wasn’t ran dry. It surely just stopped turning when the belt snapped ? Any thoughts on this ? Perhaps the belt snapped for a reason ??
secondly and perhaps a complex issue.
The boat was bought on a sold as seen basis. It had had a new full distributor gear fitted 2 years previously and sat ashore un tested until he bought it.
I took the boat out on the lake and it wouldn’t even near get on plane. Popping and banging and missing.
I loosened the retaining on the diz assembly and turned it a few mm. Literally about 2/3mm until it ran much better. (I know, I know. These engines are timing set by ecu and the diz needs only be within the setting lines, but it improved it 90%). The boat now takes off like a rocket and sees max rpm at 5000 and a healthy 50mph gps. Only thing is that at about 2700 rpm and right where the cruising rpm is. It still takes a wee pop and a miss occasionally.
So. We try to replace the diz cap after knowing that these are easily bad. The oem cap would not fit the assembly quite perfect. Literally a mm off getting it down in place enough to tighten the two torx screws. The cap fitted is blue...any I’ve seen are black. Is it possible the seller fitted the wrong assembly perhaps from a similar GM engine but not the same ?
Other thinking is around this cool fuel paint issue and fuel regulators.
What say you all ? Thanks.
First issue (previously touched on last year)
the engine snapped its belt and creeped towards the upper end of the temp range and just over at about 180/190 and was noticed almost instantly. He shut it down and was towed in. Fitted the new belt. All was well for 10 mins then it started to overheat at slow rpm. Bring the revs up and it would settle down. Naturally I thought it must be the impeller on the front of engine...later asking myself why this would suddenly go bad if it wasn’t ran dry. It surely just stopped turning when the belt snapped ? Any thoughts on this ? Perhaps the belt snapped for a reason ??
secondly and perhaps a complex issue.
The boat was bought on a sold as seen basis. It had had a new full distributor gear fitted 2 years previously and sat ashore un tested until he bought it.
I took the boat out on the lake and it wouldn’t even near get on plane. Popping and banging and missing.
I loosened the retaining on the diz assembly and turned it a few mm. Literally about 2/3mm until it ran much better. (I know, I know. These engines are timing set by ecu and the diz needs only be within the setting lines, but it improved it 90%). The boat now takes off like a rocket and sees max rpm at 5000 and a healthy 50mph gps. Only thing is that at about 2700 rpm and right where the cruising rpm is. It still takes a wee pop and a miss occasionally.
So. We try to replace the diz cap after knowing that these are easily bad. The oem cap would not fit the assembly quite perfect. Literally a mm off getting it down in place enough to tighten the two torx screws. The cap fitted is blue...any I’ve seen are black. Is it possible the seller fitted the wrong assembly perhaps from a similar GM engine but not the same ?
Other thinking is around this cool fuel paint issue and fuel regulators.
What say you all ? Thanks.