305 to 350 engine swap 1984 Sea Ray

grouly925

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Apr 18, 2018
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Hello all, first time poster, been doing a little trolling and I decided it was best to start my own thread. Needing to replace the 305 in my 1984 Sea Ray 220 because of a hole in water jacket of the engine block. Still runs like a top, but pukes out water faster than the bilge would pump it out! Wanting to swap in a 350 for the relative cost and a bump in performance. Not new to engine swaps in general, but first time in a boat. When researching purchase of long block replacement, I notice that there is a break between 1967-1986, 1987-1995, and 1996-current 5.7l engines. I know the heads changed and rear main seal changed, but what will and won’t swap into this boat I have? I am going to do any preventative maintenance while I have the lower unit off as well so any advice or input on what to check/change. Any input on places to buy a long block? I am in Michigan so I am going to contact michiganmotorz to see what they have and if I can pick it up to save freight. I think the only tool I don’t have for the job is an alignment tool for the engine alignment, but I can buy or find one to borrow I’m pretty sure. Also looking at doing an hei swap at the same time. Thanks for any pointers and information.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Buy the alignment tool (its $30). If you change the coupler, you can use any vintage motor you want.

86 was the start of 1-piece RMS and the change to 78 degree manifold bolts and perimeter bolt valve covers.

1996 and later gets you roller cam and vortec heads.

I would build a motor myself vs buying a long block. But i like to turn wrenches
 

Bondo

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the 305 in my 1984 Sea Ray 220 because of a hole in water jacket of the engine block. Still runs like a top, but pukes out water faster than the bilge would pump it out!

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... If the block is only cracked Outwards, 'n not into the oil cavities, you can epoxy it up, 'n Run it if ya want,.....

If ya want to drop in a 350, without havin' to adapt anything,..... Ya need a '79 to '85 long block,.....

Rear main switched in '86, so you'd need the newer bolt pattern flywheel,.....
Also the intake manifold center bolts changed their angle,.... so a different intake manifold,....

In '96, Vortec heads came out, 'n you'd need a different intake manifold,....

'n somewhere along the way, they quit drillin' the fuel pump boss, so an electric fuel pump would need to be adapted,....
 

grouly925

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Apr 18, 2018
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I agree about purchasing the alignment tool. Better safe than sorry. If it was a performance situation I would probably build one out too, but I just want to get it fixed and get back to using it.

I have read and done some research on repairing engine blocks, but as far as I can tell, I have a 3" hole and it appears like its fairly close to the starboard motor mount. If I intend to keep this thing around, I'd like to fix it properly and hope that it runs for another 15 years or more. I'm not even sure how the crack and then eventual hole happened. The boat has been properly winterized each year and stored in an insulated and heated building along with other boats and RV's. None of the other machines have had any issues.

I am thinking the long block is the way to go, any input on locations to purchase one from?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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A 3" hole in a block is fixed by replacing the motor
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Joined
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Messages
52,172
The embossment around the core plug is about2-1/4" so a 3" hole took a bit of the block with it
 
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