3.0GPL-E high idle and other issues

Hicksuperman

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Hey All, first I just wanted to say this is my first post on this awesome forum. I've been searching on the forums on various issues but I had to sign up to ask these specific questions.

I've been trying to chase the high idling issue that I've been having. It started with the carb going bad, there was gas leaking out of the butterfly shaft due to the seals giving up. After reading I assume this issue will also cause high idle. I've since then replace the carb with a new rebuilt carb. But the problem is still there. I'm still idling at 1000-1100 on muffs, I can't mess with the idle screw anymore b/c it will stalls out if it goes below 1000.

I figure I should check the timing to see if it somehow went off. I followed the direction on this post:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...s-outdrives/278257-volvo-est-timing-procedure


I'm currently at a stand still b/c as soon as I connect the B+ wire to 12v, the engine will dies. So obviously I can't check my base timing. So any advice on what my next step is?

little background"

3.0GLP-E penta with new re-manufactured carb
new plugs, caps and wires
new oil.

thanks in advance.


Vince.
 

alldodge

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I can't mess with the idle screw anymore b/c it will stalls out if it goes below 1000.

If your tachometer is accurate then you most likely are way out of time or there is a vacuum leak

Have you tried to move the distributor slightly and get the idle lower?

Place a vacuum gauge to the intake or base of carb and what reading do you get?
 

Hicksuperman

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If your tachometer is accurate then you most likely are way out of time or there is a vacuum leak

Have you tried to move the distributor slightly and get the idle lower?

Place a vacuum gauge to the intake or base of carb and what reading do you get?

I have done neither, which do you think I should do first? Also where should I hook the vaccume gauge to? Thanks.
 

alldodge

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I'm seeing a PCV valve going to the base of carb or intake. This would be the place to connect the vacuum gauge. Also before connecting the gauge, pull the valve from the cover and place finger over the valve to see if it idles down

If this does not help then try to move the distributor

vp30gpl.jpg
 

Hicksuperman

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I'm seeing a PCV valve going to the base of carb or intake. This would be the place to connect the vacuum gauge. Also before connecting the gauge, pull the valve from the cover and place finger over the valve to see if it idles down

If this does not help then try to move the distributor


Thank you! I will try that later and report back. Also, I looked at the notch the manufactured put on the distributor, the notch hasn't been moved. Can the timing be off without the notch moving?
 

alldodge

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Anything can happen over time, and the notch may not have been put there by the manufacture

Only way to know if its out of time is to check it with a light
 

Hicksuperman

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Anything can happen over time, and the notch may not have been put there by the manufacture

Only way to know if its out of time is to check it with a light

Got to work on it yesterday and sadly enough to report back the problem hasn't been solved.

I first pulled the PCV valve and put my finger over it, there is a very very slight difference in engine noise. So I checked the base timing, I was able to remedy the engine stalling after connecting B+ wire to 12v by messing with the low idle screw for a bit. Timing was in fact on.

After timing was checked, I pulled the B+ wire off and the RPM went back up, subsequently I had to turn the low idle screw down to where it was and I'm back to square 1, idling between 900-1k and stalling at anything below. Maybe the stock gauge just suck and that's where it's supposed to be? What should i check for next? Thanks for being patience with me.
 

alldodge

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If your using the boat tach it might be off. Have you tried a hand held one?

If the tach is accurate, spray some WD40 around the base of the carb and around the intake to see if the rpm will change
 

Hicksuperman

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If your using the boat tach it might be off. Have you tried a hand held one?

If the tach is accurate, spray some WD40 around the base of the carb and around the intake to see if the rpm will change

I haven't used a hand held one, is there one you would recommend? Also does it matter if I'm doing all this in on muff or in water?
 

alldodge

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Doesn't matter if your on muffs or water. Many local auto parts stores have tool loaner program

I have one of these but there are many that work well. I like the ones that use spark plug wire pickup over photo laser

http://www.esitest.com/325.html
 
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