280 C-N. Corrosion

[Tafflad]

Volvo Penta drive exchange. (Detailed in previous post)

Finally after 14 months of waiting my new DPS drive has been fitted.
The ‘old’ one had severe corrosion, I had spotted this initially on bearing carrier, and that is what I reported in Aug 2021
First dealer took boat in, after 5 weeks of saying they were waiting on Volvo, called to say ‘collect boat today we have gone into Administration’
Annoyingly when pushed for details they advised they had not reported it to VP

Took to another dealer (in a different country) VP engaged, needs new drive .. all of 30 Hrs use
Each month told 3 months eta for parts.
Finally after 14 months the job was completed today.


On inspection, all bolts into drive had corrosion under the paint around the holes, ram outers corroded, bottom of transom shield corroded, Exhaust edges corroded.
All this on a boat that had only done 30 Hrs, never been moored, never more than 4 Hrs in water at the time (2 Hrs either side of tide)
Always trailered, flushed with fresh water after use.

Big Q remains what caused it … maybe I will never know.

At least all done under warranty.

 

[Scott Danforth]

could have been poor prep on the paint

could have been bad paint (product)

could be a bonding issue (look to make sure that is not it)

 

[Tafflad]

could have been poor prep on the paint

could have been bad paint (product)

could be a bonding issue (look to make sure that is not it)

dealer has installed all new bonding kit, and confirms all fully bonded.

 

[Tafflad]

dealer has installed all new bonding kit, and confirms all fully bonded.

After 14 months ..... boat was back home with new drive.
Run up today to winterise - not good news.

Started perfectly on the winterizing 2-stroke mix (hence the smoke)
In Neutral, increased to 1500rpm (as per Volvo winterisation procedure)
Horrible noise - sounds like gears meshing & slipping - it's in Neutral.

I then put it in fwd and run to 1500 rpm ... this ran without noise

Then found that I cannot select reverse.

This is not what I expected from a 100% new drive. especially having waited over a year for this.

My basic level of engineering would suggest that gearbox linkage is incorrectly set allowing gears to mesh when in Neutral, and so far out to prevent reverse (maybe Neutral interlock) will this have caused any damage? as this is supposed to be a new drive.

I videoed (with audio) the 3 conditions ..... please watch & listen, welcome any comments - it's going back into dealer for sure.

 

[Horigan]

I'm not familiar with this newer drive, but I would pull the back cover off the drive and confirm the cable is actuating the gear selector lever fully in both forward and reverse. Maybe the cable wasn't adjusted correctly. With the cable disconnected you should be able to shift it fully into forward or reverse at the lever manually.

Also, I would not run the engine with the drive trimmed up that far. The U-joints are getting a work out and may be clashing with surrounding structure. Can you lower the front of the trailer so you can trim the drive down? I would investigate the cable issue above before running it again.

 

[Tafflad]

I'm not familiar with this newer drive, but I would pull the back cover off the drive and confirm the cable is actuating the gear selector lever fully in both forward and reverse. Maybe the cable wasn't adjusted correctly. With the cable disconnected you should be able to shift it fully into forward or reverse at the lever manually.

Also, I would not run the engine with the drive trimmed up that far. The U-joints are getting a work out and may be clashing with surrounding structure. Can you lower the front of the trailer so you can trim the drive down? I would investigate the cable issue above before running it again.

It's going back to Dealer to resolve, as it's a brand new drive, I'm not going to fiddle. Just interested on thoughts of the cause.

 

[Tafflad]

The dealer came to my house.. and found the cables not adjusted properly.

 

[Horigan]

Excellent!