235 Outboard Still overheating

[anthonyss89@gmail.com]

Hi,
So I have twin 235 and I am still having overheating issues at the lake. The initial first 20min go without a problem then afterwards I turn off the right engine and leave the left one running meanwhile I am in the no wake zone. Do that for about 3 hours then head back out of the no wake. Upon leaving the zone I turn the Right engine on and start going within 10 mins the right engine alarm on the thermostat comes on. I shut it off imedierly and return to the marina. I have tried replacing the water pump, impeller checking, Last night I checked the line that runs to the water pressure gauge and that was fine. the stream from the pee hole thing flows fine, removed the thermostat and replaced them. I have no idea what else I can do

 

[racerone]

Checked the water diverters ?----They are found in water jackets.-----Pee stream DOES NOT indicate water is circulating through the block !

 

[boobie]

Got a model # ???

 

[anthonyss89@gmail.com]

Have no checked the water diverters, and the Model is E235TRLCNE

 

[racerone]

Have a pair of those motors myself.-----Look into problems with diverters / water guides.

 

[Joe Reeves]

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(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

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