230A condenser failure

[Edmaine]

I need some advice about condenser failures. I replaced coil, condenser, points, rotor, cap, plug wires and plugs about 3 years ago. Since then I have had 3 condenser failures. The condensers have the Sierra brand, which I have recently learned many dealers will not repair with Sierra due to reliability. My question is —- are the failures brand related or might there something in the ignition system that is causing this ? Boat runs super when condenser is good ! Any thoughts ?

 

[Bt Doctur]

tha capacitors limit and control the arcing from the points. too mush voltage is the culprit What is the coil voltage when running? should be around 9ish because it reduced from the ballast resistor or resistance wire

 

[Edmaine]

How do I test this when running?

 

[Bt Doctur]

put a voltmeter on the + side of the coil and read the voltage

 

[stresspoint]

check the ballast resistor OHM reading if you have one on that system ,
or if you don't have a resistor coil , then you need to replace what you have with a resistor coil.
OR replace the resistor coil you have with a new one because the primary circuit has had a melt down and pumping too much power to the condenser. .

 

[Edmaine]

Soooo, I pulled the coil and ohm tested it. It was basically 4 across the primary and .7 on the meter so it would be 3.3 (yes?). There is no reading on the secondary side so I’m assuming it’s a broken circuit and the coil is no good ????

 

[Scott Danforth]

read voltage at the coil + both during cranking and running.

When cranking you should have battery voltage at the coil. With the motor running, you should be in the 9 volt range. if you are running battery voltage while running, that will kill points and condensor. it also means your resistor wire is no longer there and someone replaced it.

there are 3 ohm coils and 1.5 ohm coils. your coil is fine

 

[Edmaine]

I removed the coil and used a multimeter to check resistance in both the primary and secondary coils. The + and - check (primary) calculated to 3.3 ohms. The + and ignition wire terminal check (secondary) did not read anything (as in not connected internally or “open”). My logic says there has to be some readable resistance between the + and ignition cable terminal. Am I getting this wrong?

 

[Bondo]

I removed the coil and used a multimeter to check resistance in both the primary and secondary coils. The + and - check (primary) calculated to 3.3 ohms. The + and ignition wire terminal check (secondary) did not read anything (as in not connected internally or “open”). My logic says there has to be some readable resistance between the + and ignition cable terminal. Am I getting this wrong?

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... You need to test the in-coming voltage, not the ohms,.....
Reread the above replies,....

 

[Scott Danforth]

I removed the coil...... Am I getting this wrong?

Yes, you are getting it wrong.

You went down a rabbit hole in resistance and ignored what we are telling you on reading voltage

With the coil mounted and wired in the boat. What is the voltage between lock ground and coil + during both cranking and running.

 

[Edmaine]

Got it. Left boat until AM
Can get cranking voltage, but can’t get running voltage because I’m in no spark

 

[Scott Danforth]

File the points

Key on voltage should be 9 volts, just like running.

Cranking voltage will be battery voltage

 

[Edmaine]

Finally getting to this
Key on voltage 11.8
Cranking voltage 10
Does not appear to align with what it should ?

 

[Edmaine]

Do you think the condenser failures are a result of to much voltage?

 

[ESGWheel]

Do you think the condenser failures are a result of to much voltage?

It certainly can be.

A condenser (really a capacitor) is essentially two plates (+/-) separated by an insulator. And the insulator is designed for only so much voltage. The higher the voltage the more ‘robust’ the insulator needs to be. Here is a couple of write ups talking about why a ballast resistor is needed and what excessive voltage can do to a condenser. Link and Link

While you set up may be different these write ups provide an understanding of what is going on.

Hope this helps.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Finally getting to this
Key on voltage 11.8
Cranking voltage 10
Does not appear to align with what it should ?

Looks to be wired wrong (with the resistor on the wire going to the starter R terminal and not the wire going to the ignition switch

Or your battery is not up to snuff, and your coil isn't wired with a resistor

 

[Edmaine]

The wires (other than new plug wires) are original (1989) ,there is a resistor wire on the generator (original), the coil is wired correctly (+/-), across the terminals the battery is 12.45V, new condenser, points ok, cap &rotor new this year. Still in no spark and I can’t say why.
Beginning of July I changed cap, rotor, points, condenser to get out of another no-spark. Boat ran super with long days of running on a really big lake. Parked the boat for 7 weeks and took it out just a week ago.
Never started and in another no spark. Frustrating

 

[Scott Danforth]

File the points, then set them with a dwell meter

 

[ESGWheel]

Am PM’ing the OP and needed to post a pic on the PM but do not know how so posting here.