2016 Yamaha F4 Rectifier Wiring

[Shermanator31660]

Unable to find any wiring schematics for my F4 four-stroke, to hook the rectifier up, including from Yamaha themselves! The F4 came charging ready, 6amp alternator. I bought the applicable rectifier from Yamaha, a four wire unit, 1 black, 1 red and 2 green wires. A four pin plug comes off the alternator/stator, only 2 pins are utilized, one wire to ground and the other to the kill switch. There is 14.5 volts AC coming off these pins. The other 2 pins are dead, nothing coming from them. I've tried numerous "ways" of trying to run this AC current through the rectifier but to no avail. Anyone wired these before??? Yamaha sells a "lighting kit" for $600 to get the unit to charge!! It's already producing the necessary AC current, just have to figure out the wiring, I hope! Sherm

 

[sam am I]

The "other two pins that are dead"............Did (or can) you use you meter to measure any resistance across the two wires? If it's a/the charge coil, the measurement should be 0'ish ohms.........

 

[Shermanator31660]

The "other two pins that are dead"............Did (or can) you use you meter to measure any resistance across the two wires? If it's a/the charge coil, the measurement should be 0'ish ohms.........

Just cranked it up again and yes, 0 ohm's across the 2 dead pins....

 

[sam am I]

Just cranked it up again and yes, 0 ohm's across the 2 dead pins....

"just cranked it up and yes, 0 ohms"???

No.......ALWAYS measure resistance (Ohms) with all power off/disconnected, motor off, key off.

HOWEVER I will assume the coil is good and your previous AC measurements when running are suspect.....SO,

Hook the two green wires/pins to the "AC" pins (~) on the rectifier, get a ALREADY charged test battery, connect the "-" pin of the rectifier to the test battery's NEG post, hook the "+" pin of the rectifier to the test battery's POS post.

DO NOT START motor....yet,

1) Set meter to DC setting
2) Measure test battery's "resting" voltage, should be 12'ish volts DC
3) Start motor, rev motor up to around 1500RPM, and while still running/rev'ing recheck battery voltage......
4) Be surprised, it's charging!! The voltage has gone up!!......WOO HOO.

 

[Shermanator31660]

"just cranked it up and yes, 0 ohms"???

No.......ALWAYS measure resistance (Ohms) with all power off/disconnected, motor off, key off.

HOWEVER I will assume the coil is good and your previous AC measurements when running are suspect.....SO,

Hook the two green wires/pins to the "AC" pins (~) on the rectifier, get a ALREADY charged test battery, connect the "-" pin of the rectifier to the test battery's NEG post, hook the "+" pin of the rectifier to the test battery's POS post.

DO NOT START motor....yet,

1) Set meter to DC setting
2) Measure test battery's "resting" voltage, should be 12'ish volts DC
3) Start motor, rev motor up to around 1500RPM, and while still running/rev'ing recheck battery voltage......
4) Be surprised, it's charging!! The voltage has gone up!!......WOO HOO.

Sorry, yes, motor off and 0 ohms. Just to verify, the two greens from the rectifier will go to the 2 pins that I'm getting the AC voltage from. The red wire from the rectifier to the POS on the battery and the NEG ground wire from the rectifier to ground on the motor which then goes to NEG on the battery? If I remove that factory 4 pin plug to do that then the kill switch will not work as it is coming off the live AC pins.....

 

[sam am I]

No....Forget about the other two wires/pins...The "Kill switch and ground wires/pins" I'm pretty those have NOTHING to do with and ARE NOT your 6A charge wire outputs.

I'm referring to the "two dead pins" and am asking to measure resistance across those. If it's 0'ish ohms between the two, I believe that is in fact your charge coil output wires.

And as such ( I know you've tried a few ways already and said it was dead) BUT, I suspect something is in fact there, just not seen. HOWEVER, just as a starter, please do a ohm check, this will help us to know if there is at least a coil winding....

So sorry, thought the green wires were on the boat not just the rectifier.......

Hook the two green wires coming off the "AC" pins (~) on the rectifier to the two "dead pins" of the 4 pin connector, get a ALREADY charged test battery, connect the "-" pin of the rectifier to the test battery's NEG post, hook the "+" pin of the rectifier to the test battery's POS post.

 

[Shermanator31660]

No worries, appreciate the help! Yes, 0 ohms across the dead pins, AC current present on the 2 kill switch pins, and 2 green wires coming out of the rectifier only, no other wires coming from under the stator area. When the motor was running I did test the 2 dead pins but got no reading, assuming it has to be connected to the rectifier first in order to draw current. I'll give it a whirl, do you think I'd wreck anything by hooking up the 2 live pins to the rectifier?? I can probably find a different way to hook the kill switch up...

 

[sam am I]

Oh good.........0 ohm on dead pins is good!! Most likely is then the charge coil......Thinking there is AC there, it's just the type of wave form your meter probably couldn't quite capture.

Yes, hook the rectifier's green wires to the two dead pins and the rectifier's red wire to battery's (pre-charged) positive post and then the rectifier's black wire to battery's neg post.

Nah, don't think you hurt anything, everything seems to run okay still? right?

"I can probably find a different way to hook the kill switch up..." What do you mean?

 

[Shermanator31660]

I will give those pins a try tomorrow! I just thought if the dead pins didn't work I'd try the "live" pins, and if that worked find a different way to hook up a kill switch, like shove a sock into the intake! I'll report back, thanks!

 

[sam am I]

Yeah no........Think the live pin are(is) alive with AC just not the AC you want that will provide 6 Amps to charge a Batt with

 

[Shermanator31660]

Rigged it up with wires from dead pins going to rectifier green pin, zippo! Took the cover off the stator to see if I was missing some wiring, nothing there, it all goes through the CDI unit adjacent to the stator, which is where the 4 pin block is part of. I looked at pictures of the "kit" that Yamaha sells for charging and it shows the stator/coil and it has 2 green wires coming off of it!! I'm thinking some tricky advertising by Yamaha saying that it was able to charge with its 6 amp alternator but nothing else. A web search of my year of motor and the ad is different, saying that it has a 6 amp alternator but in brackets says "with the optional charging kit" ! Its beyond me, I'll have to try contacting Yamaha themselves and see if I can get some kind of answer, that or a different Yamaha dealer that will actually let me talk to one of their mechanics to see whats up. Appreciate your time on this, I'll just have to use the 15hp when I need my battery charged all the time when fishing! Sherm

 

[sam am I]

Dang.......Was hoping it was already under there for ya, BUT yes there has to be the that coil assembly (enameled copper coiled usually on laminated iron, sorta horseshoe looking things) that mounts right next to/under the flywheel..........

I'd assume these lower amp guys would look similar to each other...Can you look under'ish/by the flywheel? See anything that resembles the things below? If so, wires tied back?

Looks like the Yammie's type go on the inside of the flywheel (note the curve of the shoes), same as Honda's(mine).

Amazon.com: Outboard Charge Coil for Yamaha 9.9 HP, 15 HP 2-Stroke Outboard Engine 1996-2009 63V-85520-00-00 / 63V-85520-01-00 18-5183 : Automotive

Buy Outboard Charge Coil for Yamaha 9.9 HP, 15 HP 2-Stroke Outboard Engine 1996-2009 63V-85520-00-00 / 63V-85520-01-00 18-5183: Coils - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

https://marine.honda.com/content/images/accessories/10A%20Coil%20Kit%20-%20BF99-15%20AM.jpg

Since it sorta sounds like you're on your own now.......And IF there isn't one installed, you can certainly/easily add one......Bolts holes pattern and the shoe's foot distance from the flywheel's mags whizzing by is about it....Nothing too complicated, hook the two coil wires to your rectifier's AC (green wires)

 

[Shermanator31660]

Looked up under the flywheel, nothing like that there. The only assembly is the CDI unit that sits adjacent to the flywheel. Strange that it can produce 14V AC to the kill switch but nothing elsewhere. The stator in the kit is round and has the 2 green wires coming off of it. I'm good at changing flashlight batteries but not so much boat electrical!

 

[sam am I]

If you're not in a hurry...........SLOOOOW boat from China, but is most likely what is being sold in the US at a 400% markup...........

18.42US $ 31% OFF|6BX 85510 A0 Lighting Coil Assy for Yamaha Outboard F4L F4S F6L F6S F6C 4 Stroke|Boat Engine| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[Shermanator31660]

If you're not in a hurry...........SLOOOOW boat from China, but is most likely what is being sold in the US at a 400% markup...........

18.42US $ 31% OFF|6BX 85510 A0 Lighting Coil Assy for Yamaha Outboard F4L F4S F6L F6S F6C 4 Stroke|Boat Engine| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Just what I'm probably looking for, thanks! Always good to have options, the last time I did a China order it only took a week to get here!

 

[sam am I]

Page 54 of Rigging Parts 2013

www.who-sells-it.com

Last night I found myself near the end of the internet and found this, Page 2-12 has part #'s and such, might come in handy if ya haven't seen such yet...................ALSO, looks like (see page 2-11) you can even add a regulator if ya want.

Voltage regulator is always good idea/best practice if you take longer runs and/or use more sensitive electronics,, will keep ya from overcharging and auto shutting off due to over voltage.

 

[Shermanator31660]

Page 54 of Rigging Parts 2013

www.who-sells-it.com

Last night I found myself near the end of the internet and found this, Page 2-12 has part #'s and such, might come in handy if ya haven't seen such yet...................ALSO, looks like (see page 2-11) you can even add a regulator if ya want.

Voltage regulator is always good idea/best practice if you take longer runs and/or use more sensitive electronics,, will keep ya from overcharging and auto shutting off due to over voltage.

Further investigation by taking a few parts off in fact reveals there is no lighting coil up under the flywheel! Gonna check Yammy price but no doubt they will be out to lunch. Probably get the one either from China or the ones on Amazon come from Russia! Crazy!!!!!!!!