200hp evinrude no spark on #6cly

[davek1]

I have a 96 200hp evenrude, no spark on #6 cly.
I swaped out Coils with # 4. coil and still no spark. What should I try next and how do I do it. Thanks

 

[boobie]

Go to cdielectronics.com for trouble shooting on ignition.

 

[gm280]

I suspect you have a power pack feeding that #6 cylinder that is iffy. Once you rule out the spark coil, as you already did, whatever is feeding the coils is next inline to check out. But before just buying any part, verify it is either good or bad by following boobie's suggestion above first. JMHO

 

[boobie]

Yeah, I guess I'm from the old school. I always like to "test" before I "guess". JMO.

 

[davek1]

thanks for the reply. I also like research before buying parts. I will look up cdi thanks again. Dave

 

[davek1]

I used the cdi site, I don't have a DVA tester, The power pack ohm was the same as the other cyl does this mean its ok and start looking at the trigger. again I don't have a DVA tester is this a must have. thanks

 

[gm280]

I used the cdi site, I don't have a DVA tester, The power pack ohm was the same as the other cyl does this mean its ok and start looking at the trigger. again I don't have a DVA tester is this a must have. thanks

I am not sure how your particular ignition system is set up. But I think the trigger is a one time trigger that sets the entire revolution to fire progressively. Meaning if the trigger works for one cylinder then it works for all cylinders, If that is incorrect, someone correct that assumption. Can you test the spark coil input to see if it is there for each coil? I suspect it isn't for #6 cylinder. And that points to the power pack. :sorry:

You can make a DVA circuit very cheaply to test it. Click on this link and watch;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juhri_NxQcQ

 

[daselbee]

I am not sure how your particular ignition system is set up. But I think the trigger is a one time trigger that sets the entire revolution to fire progressively. Meaning if the trigger works for one cylinder then it works for all cylinders, If that is incorrect, someone correct that assumption. Can you test the spark coil input to see if it is there for each coil? I suspect it isn't for #6 cylinder. And that points to the power pack. :sorry:

You can make a DVA circuit very cheaply to test it. Click on this link and watch;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juhri_NxQcQ

You asked for a correction...here it is....NO, that is not how the trigger works. The timer base has individual pickups in it, six in all, and as each pickup passes by the one slot in the center magnet ring, it fires the appropriate cylinder. The timer base is not simply a set of pickups (reluctors), it contains SCR circuitry also.

With today's modern meters and today's modern semiconductor circuitry, is it virtually impossible to use a meter on the ohms scale and get readings that mean anything. It is not a valid electronic test method to meter what is called an active circuit (semiconductor components) while in OHMS mode.

All meters have different design, and they use different bias current. They will give inconsistent readings.

So, on the V6 he is talking about, there are four wires in the rubber TB to pack connectors on each side.
Both sides have blue, purple, and green wires, and one side has white, the other side has black with a white stripe.

The blue, purple, and green wires fire the three cyls for their respective engine bank side. Look at stbd wires from TB to pack. The blue wire fires the top cyl (1), the purple wire fires #3, and the green wire fires #5. Likewise for the port side.

So, IF the problem is in the TB or wiring, his problem would be localized to the post side TB to pack wires, and the green wire specifically. Look for possible problems in the connector, green wire.

 

[gm280]

You asked for a correction...here it is....NO, that is not how the trigger works. The timer base has individual pickups in it, six in all, and as each pickup passes by the one slot in the center magnet ring, it fires the appropriate cylinder. The timer base is not simply a set of pickups (reluctors), it contains SCR circuitry also.

With today's modern meters and today's modern semiconductor circuitry, is it virtually impossible to use a meter on the ohms scale and get readings that mean anything. It is not a valid electronic test method to meter what is called an active circuit (semiconductor components) while in OHMS mode.

All meters have different design, and they use different bias current. They will give inconsistent readings.

So, on the V6 he is talking about, there are four wires in the rubber TB to pack connectors on each side.
Both sides have blue, purple, and green wires, and one side has white, the other side has black with a white stripe.

The blue, purple, and green wires fire the three cyls for their respective engine bank side. Look at stbd wires from TB to pack. The blue wire fires the top cyl (1), the purple wire fires #3, and the green wire fires #5. Likewise for the port side.

So, IF the problem is in the TB or wiring, his problem would be localized to the post side TB to pack wires, and the green wire specifically. Look for possible problems in the connector, green wire.

Ha daselbee, I welcome your correction. I have never worked on that engine and was thinking it was all electronically fired after the initial trigger pulse per RPM. The fact that there are individual trigger pulses, one for each cylinder, then the trigger itself can be a problem as well. Thanks for the correction and the info. :thumb:

 

[daselbee]

^^^^ Yes Sir!!!

 

[davek1]

Thanks that was a great reply. So my next step is to make or buy a DVA tester

 

[gm280]

Thanks that was a great reply. So my next step is to make or buy a DVA tester

You don't have to buy a DVA tester, you can make one very simply to use with your meter. Just watch this video and make your own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juhri_NxQcQ

 

[daselbee]

Well, honestly, I wouldn't do that.

Substitution is a good method for troubleshooting. Ppl will recommend swapping coils, swapping packs, etc. in order to determine the problem.
But, you did the coil swap, you probably don't have spare packs or TBs. But since you do have spark on all but #6, this is what I would do.

First, make absolutely sure you have the engine spinning fast enough to generate a strong voltage from the stator to energize the pack.
This is done by removing all plugs so it spins as fast as it can.
I have seen intermittent spark results when the engine is ALMOST spinning fast enough...just on the edge, so to speak.

Next, lift the pack up and locate the large rubber Amphenol connector coming from the TB to the pack, on the left side of the engine center line. Inspect very carefully the green wires as they enter the connector. Look for signs of corrosion. Look for a broken green wire. Look to make sure that green wire has not been pinched to ground when the pack was installed last. Pull the connector apart and look at the condition of the contacts. Is the contact for the green wire pushed back?
Look for stuff like that. If all looks good...then if you have the balls, try THIS!

You can effectively do a "swap" process by pulling both the green wire and the purple wire from one side of the Amphenol connector and swapping positions.
When you do that, if the TB is bad, then you will lose spark on #4 and regain it on #6.
If #6 is still bad, then you have a bad pack.

You do not have to remount the pack to try for spark. Just let it hang off the back of the engine, but make sure you re-connect the black ground wire that is usually attached to the right rear pack mounting stud. I just hook it to the top bolt of #1s coil....it will reach. Make sure all wires are clear of the flywheel.

Pulling the contacts from one of those Amphenol connectors is a real task. You run the risk of breaking a contact, pulling a wire loose, any other damage scenario.
It can be done, but you gotta be good. You almost have to have a surgeon's skill to get it out and back with no damage. If you break it, you will be set back in your progress until you can get that new problem fixed.
I do it, and I always worry that something will break, so use your best judgment.

 

[davek1]

This is just grate. Thank you daselbee. It makes perfect sense to me. It will be a few days till I try it , I will post the results

 

[Faztbullet]

Is #6 not firing while running or not firing while testing??

 

[daselbee]

This is just grate. Thank you daselbee. It makes perfect sense to me. It will be a few days till I try it , I will post the results

Just be very careful to keep from damaging the Amphenol connector and the electrical contact. It is very easy to do. I warned you....LOL.

And realize that it aint going to run right....all you are doing is looking to see if the fault moves to a different cylinder.

 

[davek1]

Got it. Thanks. I will post back in a few days

 

[davek1]

The boat is new to me. It seamed to run fine but took a long time to get on plane. I've had a lot of boats and this one just took forever to get on plane. So I started to do a compresson test and noticed # 6 plug looked new white as if never used the rest looked used so I checked for spark not running but with a fresh battery. All others sparked well. I will do some testing this weekend. Thanks

 

[davek1]

Thank you daselbee. I did the test as you suggested the pins came out easily. Still no spark on #6. Thank you again. Ordered a power pack, This is a grate site

 

[daselbee]

Great!!! Let us know if the pack does the trick....