2008 3.0L AlphaOne no water to engine

TBarCYa

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 13, 2005
Messages
781
Hello everyone. Long time no see.

My lower unit water pump was recently replaced by a professional but afterwards I had a drive oil leak from a bad o-ring and had to pull the lower unit. When putting the lower unit back in, I was having trouble getting the water tube from the pump to connect to the upper gear case. I ended up putting the tube on the gear case first and it appeared that the hose went together because the lower unit went on without a hitch.

Now I'm not getting water to the engine. When running, I have water coming from the prop but very little, if any from the exhaust. I pulled a small hose that Ts from the main hose that brings water from the oil cooler to the thermostat housing and just got steam.

I'm going to pull the lower unit again but is there a trick to getting the water pump hose to line up with the gear case? Is water from the prop an indication that the water pump is pumping, just not up to the engine? When I have the water on and the engine not running, there is no water from the prop.

Thanks.
 

TBarCYa

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 13, 2005
Messages
781
I'm draining the gearcase oil and it has water in it. I'm assuming that this is because the water pump hose isn't connected and the o-ring that I just replaced let water get past it... But I honestly don't know.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,450
Likely the base for the water pump (below the water pump) is leaking oil. If your water pump tube isnt connected water will just come out the prop like you are seeing

I dont think your proefessional did the job right... but you also had it apart afterwards so hard to tell. Make sure you change the lube repeatedly to get the milk out, you can also fill it with kero and then run it a bit at idle to act as a solvent
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Not a fan of pulling just a lower off while leaving the upper attached to the boat. It takes just a few minutes to remove an entire drive. And making a drive fixture with a slot for the drive with a couple 2x6's is super simple. With the entire drive in the fixture, pull the upper off upward. Dropping an upper back down onto the lower in the fixture is the only decent way to do this and alleviates the issue of damaging upper seals while trying to lift and poke a lower into place.

You need to examine and redo whatever was done wrong the parts and pieces related to the 'repair' done by a sub par mechanic.
 

Campfire

Seaman
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
64
Are you not getting water when running on muffs or is the boat in the water?

If on muffs, I had an issue with no water (Walmart muffs), just steam. I then used a set of Quicksilver/Mercruiser muffs and voila, plenty of water squirting out of the main coolant line.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,366
Leak test it before you take it back apart to see where that waters getting in
 

TBarCYa

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 13, 2005
Messages
781
Are you not getting water when running on muffs or is the boat in the water?

If on muffs, I had an issue with no water (Walmart muffs), just steam. I then used a set of Quicksilver/Mercruiser muffs and voila, plenty of water squirting out of the main coolant line.
WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!!!!!!!!!!!!! I changed muffs and I now have cooling water to the thermostat housing. I'll be pulling the housing to clean it thoroughly and putting a new t-stat in but I think it's good.
 
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