2006 Nissan 9.8 NFS9.8A3 Revival

Oday20

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Oct 3, 2020
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9
Got this motor with a sailboat. Working through it to see if I can get it to run.
I finally got my Nissan electric start 9.8 to crank (special thanks pvanv. Yes it was simple...had the B- on the solenoid rather than to a grounding point) . Now on to getting it to start. I put some gas in the tank, pumped the bulb until firm. I heard the gas entering the motor. I cranked a several times on full choke. I did not smell any gas. Haven't pulled the plug to see if gas is in carb but I had gotten that far before and suspect gas is reaching the carb.
So, what is the next logical step? The following are my WAGs based on my reading of some things to consider. I'm sure I missed something.
1) pull carb dissasemble and soak overnight in seafoam or other recommended solvent, reassemble...looking at the old Nissan tank I found white corrosion on the mechanical gauge. So, I suspect water had been in the fuel at some point.
2) pull plugs smell for gas and then maybe squirt in a little gas to see if I can get the motor to fire
3)buy a carb kit and install
4)buy a carb
5)new plugs since plugs are oil fouled (oil was overfull when I got the motor) I have changed the oil and filled to just over the add mark on the dipstick.
Recommendations
 

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Oday20

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Oct 3, 2020
Messages
9
I found this Tohatsu service manual online which is for the same outboard (as far as I can tell). Much easier to read than the paper manual I have. I could not make out the wiring diagram symbols on in the paper manual I have. With this electronic copy the imagery was clear and helped me better understand how to fix my problem.MOD EDIT - Removed link.
 
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pvanv

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Apr 20, 2008
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Please remove the link to the illegal FSM. They are copyrighted, and Tohatsu may sick their attornies on them.

Forget seafoam. It's just mineral spirits. You can soak all non rubber bits in real carb dip overnight. You can get that in 1-gallon cans at the auto parts house.

Occasionally a kit is needed, but not every time.

Yes, some new NGK DCPR5E plugs is a good idea.
 

Oday20

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Oct 3, 2020
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9
I purchased a sparkplug tester and verified I have spark from both sparkplug wires so the coil seems to be working. I tried to crank and got a little intermittent firing on one or two occasions. I plugs were dirty but not as oil fouled as I thought I remembered. I'll replace them anyway and see if I can get it running. I did smell some gas in the cylinders when plugs were removed.
 

Oday20

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Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Messages
9
Please remove the link to the illegal FSM. They are copyrighted, and Tohatsu may sick their attornies on them.

Forget seafoam. It's just mineral spirits. You can soak all non rubber bits in real carb dip overnight. You can get that in 1-gallon cans at the auto parts house.

Occasionally a kit is needed, but not every time.

Yes, some new NGK DCPR5E plugs is a good idea.
Thank you
 

Oday20

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Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Messages
9
Ok, replaced the plugs. It fired right up. Amazing. I was able to adjust the idle pretty low. Starts immediately pull or electric start. Only problem is that I don't see any water coming from the cooling water check port. I never let it run over 10 or 15 seconds. How long should I let the motor run to determine if the water pump is working? I am using a hose with earmuffs.
 

Oday20

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Oct 3, 2020
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Watched videos on replacing water pump impeller. Seems pretty straight forward. Going to order a waterpump repair kit from tohatsu. I'll wait until tomorrow in case maybe someone has a better idea.
 

Oday20

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Oct 3, 2020
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9
Ordered a tohatsu water pump kit, cowl seal and anode. Looking forward to mounting this now apparently functional motor on my sailboat. What is best adhesive for attaching cowl seal to the plastic cowl?

Looks like PO hit an oyster rock and prop is slightly dented. I plan to, for now, just remove the prop and try to remove the dent with a brass hammer on a large piece of wood. Any problems with that? Lastly, my sailboats displace 1600 (oday 20) and 2200 (Mac 25) pounds...at these weights is a high thrust prop of any value? I live in a coastal area with strong tides. Asking because but I'll probably buy a prop, if this motor proves itself, and use the current prop and hardware for onboard spares.
 

pvanv

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Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,500
3M 5200 is good. Also 4200 fast cure.
Yes, a 7 pitch HT prop will work well.
 

Oday20

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Oct 3, 2020
Messages
9
Alright, I installed a water pump rebuild kit and also the plastic water pump body which was damaged. Reassembled. Started right up and now dripping from pee hole. The old water pump was completely shot...the impeller was trashed and the upper plastic water pump housing had gotten so hot it had melted.

When I disassembled the lower leg/water pump I found the tube up to the motor was clogged with sediment. The sediment was pretty hard but cleared out when I ran a wooden dowel up the tube to the motor. I also found that the inlet ports were clogged. Those were cleaned. I suspect there is debris/mud still in the system. I'll try cranking again tomorrow to see if after being wet any blockages will loosen. Yes, I used a piece of weed wacker line and ran it about a foot into pee hole. There was a little dirt on the end when I removed it.

Any tips for where I might want to look for blockages are appreciated.
 

pvanv

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If you have compressed air, blow that in the pee tube while the motor is idling. That will help dislodge a bunch of crud.
 

MattFL

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Oct 20, 2010
Messages
827
If you rammed a rod up the water tube, maybe remove the thermostat and put some water backwards through the system to try to flush that pipe out so any remaining crap doesn't get pushed up into the motor when you start it up.

Disclaimer: I have not tried this myself, but if you think it might be clogged with salt or calcium deposits, then you can try flushing it with Rydlyme, Barnacle Buster, etc.. The chemical reaction does work to dissolve that stuff, the question is whether there is significant risk to the metal in the motor from it, in particular any sacrificial anodes. There are lots of videos showing before and after use on outboards and it definitely cleans things out, and it makes sense as an acid will dissolve calcium so I think the videos are legit. If you think the motor is too salty to disassemble for fear of broken bolts, etc.. then flushing it with a chemical like this might be worth a shot.
 

pvanv

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Apr 20, 2008
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Remember that some vanes may have come off the old impeller, and gotten stuck up in the cooling system.
 
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