LamathVader
Recruit
- Joined
- May 12, 2022
- Messages
- 5
Early May 2021, the boat was de-winterized and ran perfectly throughout the entire 2021 summer season and yes, we ran it as hard as we did in the previous year with water activities. I have 4 kids and they love the watersports. I would estimate, at this point we put almost another 50 hours on the engine with perfect operations.
Here we go again, during the very last lake run, the boat was filled with gasoline. It has a 55-gallon tank and approximately 50 gallons was pumped. Upon de-trailering the boat, it appeared to run a little rougher than normal during the idle from the “No Wake” zone. Upon throttle up, the loss of power returned and while I was able to plane, I knew this day was going to be cut short, so we immediately headed back to the dock. This time there was NO loud backfire or thump from the engine area so my first thought, BAD GAS? No way but it is possible. I also recalled the issues I experienced last year, so I had a second Camshaft Position Sensor at the house.
Knowing the Camshaft Position Sensor was the issue the previous year, I installed another new Camshaft Position Sensor; however, this time it DID NOT fix the rough idle or power loss. It was getting colder out now, and I had to winterize it and store for the winter season.
Ok so now it’s May 2022 and the boat was de-winterized. It did start right up, however idle was still rough. Water did not flow correctly through the outdrive “muffs” to the impeller upon startup which caused the impeller to break apart. No big deal, I cleaned all debris from the water-cooling system and since I had the thermostat assembly already apart, installed a new thermostat and gasket.
Because the new Camshaft Position Sensor did NOT fix the problem and I believe the issue to be Ignition related, I decided to investigate the “distributor” system. Upon inspection, I noticed the rotor was warped which I assumed caused the lack of spark to “fire” correctly. I also noticed there was a mark on the distributor which indicated it had been previously removed at some point. Not sure why, but it was.
I order an upgraded distributor by Titan Performance and installed the part using the TDC Cyl#1. I lined up and distributor marking alignment approach found in the Volvo Workshop Manual. With the new distributor assembly installed, the boat did run with the same hesitation and continued power loss.
Also, the distributor did NOT seat/seal properly onto the block using the new mounting bolt, so roughly 2 to 3 quarts of oil was pushed out of the block and into the bilge.
After cleanup of the all the oil, I once again re-seated and aligned the distributor with TDC #1. Also installed a new Titan Ignition Coil to rule that out. The engine starts, however appears to idle rough and I assume the same power loss is present.
I do want to point out, and this is where I need some further clarification, I cannot seem to get the distributor assembly completely lined up with the “tang” centered on the #8 of the distributor base. At TDC Cyl#1 the tang is either behind or in front of the “8” mark and even though I can rotate the base to align it, something doesn’t seem right to me when the following the instructions to keep the “flat” area of the distributor lined up with the engine. I have pictures if they can be shared somehow.
If you recall, I mention the very first time I had issue, I though the engine “jumped time”? Could time be an indicator the timing chain is off a tooth, which causes all these ignition issues? The only reason I debunk this is because it ran almost 50 hours perfectly. Unless finally timing was so off the ECM could not compensate and adjust for it.
Also did a dry compression test on all cylinders and here is what my gauge recorded. Hope I did it right.
Cyl#1(180) Cyl#3(175) Cyl#5(185) Cyl#7(185) Cyl#2(185) Cyl#4(180) Cyl#6(175) Cyl#8(185)
Anyway, moving forward. I ordered a TechMate Pro computer. Following the instructions, the boat has a MEFI4B interface and 322.7 hours as of this document.
I have 3 Codes showing and upon an erase reappear and I’m having a hard time finding anything that can point me in the direction needed from here.
There “reduction” mode is OFF, so I’m pretty sure the engine is NOT in “Limp” mode. It does also reflect the Fuel Pump Output = ON and Engine Waring Light = ON so I’m not sure exactly what that means.
To add, I also ruled out the bad gas by running a small external fuel tank with siphon value during these tests. I’ve also wiggled the wiring harness and have seen no change in engines performance.
Here we go again, during the very last lake run, the boat was filled with gasoline. It has a 55-gallon tank and approximately 50 gallons was pumped. Upon de-trailering the boat, it appeared to run a little rougher than normal during the idle from the “No Wake” zone. Upon throttle up, the loss of power returned and while I was able to plane, I knew this day was going to be cut short, so we immediately headed back to the dock. This time there was NO loud backfire or thump from the engine area so my first thought, BAD GAS? No way but it is possible. I also recalled the issues I experienced last year, so I had a second Camshaft Position Sensor at the house.
Knowing the Camshaft Position Sensor was the issue the previous year, I installed another new Camshaft Position Sensor; however, this time it DID NOT fix the rough idle or power loss. It was getting colder out now, and I had to winterize it and store for the winter season.
Ok so now it’s May 2022 and the boat was de-winterized. It did start right up, however idle was still rough. Water did not flow correctly through the outdrive “muffs” to the impeller upon startup which caused the impeller to break apart. No big deal, I cleaned all debris from the water-cooling system and since I had the thermostat assembly already apart, installed a new thermostat and gasket.
Because the new Camshaft Position Sensor did NOT fix the problem and I believe the issue to be Ignition related, I decided to investigate the “distributor” system. Upon inspection, I noticed the rotor was warped which I assumed caused the lack of spark to “fire” correctly. I also noticed there was a mark on the distributor which indicated it had been previously removed at some point. Not sure why, but it was.
I order an upgraded distributor by Titan Performance and installed the part using the TDC Cyl#1. I lined up and distributor marking alignment approach found in the Volvo Workshop Manual. With the new distributor assembly installed, the boat did run with the same hesitation and continued power loss.
Also, the distributor did NOT seat/seal properly onto the block using the new mounting bolt, so roughly 2 to 3 quarts of oil was pushed out of the block and into the bilge.
After cleanup of the all the oil, I once again re-seated and aligned the distributor with TDC #1. Also installed a new Titan Ignition Coil to rule that out. The engine starts, however appears to idle rough and I assume the same power loss is present.
I do want to point out, and this is where I need some further clarification, I cannot seem to get the distributor assembly completely lined up with the “tang” centered on the #8 of the distributor base. At TDC Cyl#1 the tang is either behind or in front of the “8” mark and even though I can rotate the base to align it, something doesn’t seem right to me when the following the instructions to keep the “flat” area of the distributor lined up with the engine. I have pictures if they can be shared somehow.
If you recall, I mention the very first time I had issue, I though the engine “jumped time”? Could time be an indicator the timing chain is off a tooth, which causes all these ignition issues? The only reason I debunk this is because it ran almost 50 hours perfectly. Unless finally timing was so off the ECM could not compensate and adjust for it.
Also did a dry compression test on all cylinders and here is what my gauge recorded. Hope I did it right.
Cyl#1(180) Cyl#3(175) Cyl#5(185) Cyl#7(185) Cyl#2(185) Cyl#4(180) Cyl#6(175) Cyl#8(185)
Anyway, moving forward. I ordered a TechMate Pro computer. Following the instructions, the boat has a MEFI4B interface and 322.7 hours as of this document.
I have 3 Codes showing and upon an erase reappear and I’m having a hard time finding anything that can point me in the direction needed from here.
- CODE 41 – active fault EST bypass failure Type 1
- CODE 81 – active fault CAM signal fault
- CODE 81 – active fault EST A fault
There “reduction” mode is OFF, so I’m pretty sure the engine is NOT in “Limp” mode. It does also reflect the Fuel Pump Output = ON and Engine Waring Light = ON so I’m not sure exactly what that means.
To add, I also ruled out the bad gas by running a small external fuel tank with siphon value during these tests. I’ve also wiggled the wiring harness and have seen no change in engines performance.
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