2004 volvo penta 5.0 gl-e camshaft

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Texanatc

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So I failed to winterize. Got a short block on the way. I was gonna reuse the cam but after teardown it has surface rust and some tiny pits on some of the lobes. Part #3856119. Dang expensive and mostly out of stock.

So my question, is there a comparable cam available from Jegs or summit. Both have marine cams for 305 but I can't find specs for oem part.
 

alldodge

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Look for GM truck cam for same year
VP didn't make any part of the block and heads
 

alldodge

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Could also take the cam to a machine shop to find out if it can be repaired. Polish the lobes and if bearings need to be turned

If you use old cam, keep the lifter position marked for each lode
 

Texanatc

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I'm having them install new cam bearings. Was thinking about getting new lifters. Price seemed reasonable. Just concerned about cam.
 

Texanatc

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Would this cam work
 

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cptbill

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You've come this far, might as well do it right
 

Scott Danforth

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being a GL-e, should be carbed. please confirm.

the cam I would run with a 305 would be this one:

or if you go to 350, this one: https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-mar...ler-cam-and-lifter-kit-for-oe-roller-sbc.html

available at both Jegs and Summit.

stock cam grind for the GM motor is just a step below the XM264HR

specs for the late model Marine vortec hyd roller cam used in the 5.7/350 engines. GM# 431-811658/mercruiser# 18-1485/Volvo# 3853159/OMC# 3856119.

Duration @ .050: 197 intake, 207 exhaust Valve lift in inches: .430 intake, .450 exhaust Lobe centerline
 

Texanatc

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being a GL-e, should be carbed. please confirm.

the cam I would run with a 305 would be this one:

or if you go to 350, this one: https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-mar...ler-cam-and-lifter-kit-for-oe-roller-sbc.html

available at both Jegs and Summit.

stock cam grind for the GM motor is just a step below the XM264HR

specs for the late model Marine vortec hyd roller cam used in the 5.7/350 engines. GM# 431-811658/mercruiser# 18-1485/Volvo# 3853159/OMC# 3856119.

Duration @ .050: 197 intake, 207 exhaust Valve lift in inches: .430 intake, .450 exhaust Lobe centerline
Yes sir. Carbed. Thanks for getting back. And thank to Alldodge as well.
 

Texanatc

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I was planning on reusing head. Assume there is no need to change valve springs?
 

Scott Danforth

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I was planning on reusing head. Assume there is no need to change valve springs?
You need to measure. Talk to your machinist. At least, swap to the beehive springs. Stock heads good for total lift of .420 to .450. Simple mod to valve stem seal at machine shop and you can run in the .550 range plus
 

Scott Danforth

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BTW, if it was me, I would just slap it together

nothing wrong with the cam that your finger and some oil wouldn't cure

literally, nothing wrong with it other than some staining

20210324_174608-jpg.336179
 

Tail_Gunner

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Just a question....did you remove your lifter's? if so what is the stock compression of this engine...it does make a difference in cam selection.
 

Texanatc

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Just a question....did you remove your lifter's? if so what is the stock compression of this engine...it does make a difference in cam selection.
I have not removed the lifters yet. I don't know the stock compression. I've been trying to find all the paperwork that came with it but no luck
 

Tail_Gunner

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Hmm well here.
1. Soak this cam in vintage for the weekend.
2. Soak this cam in woodbleach for 24 hours.
As crazy as that sounds both solutions will chemically dissolve any and all rust without effecting the cam hardened lobes surface.

Once clean and if the lobes have not been pitted in any fashion your good to go.

If you have have moved the lifters in any manner you will need new ones. Lifters actually are designed to be burned into by a cam, any movement after they have been burned/broken will be nasty if reused again.
As always strictly a opinion,your mileage may vary.
 

Texanatc

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Hmm well here.
1. Soak this cam in vintage for the weekend.
2. Soak this cam in woodbleach for 24 hours.
As crazy as that sounds both solutions will chemically dissolve any and all rust without effecting the cam hardened lobes surface.

Once clean and if the lobes have not been pitted in any fashion your good to go.

If you have have moved the lifters in any manner you will need new ones. Lifters actually are designed to be burned into by a cam, any movement after they have been burned/broken will be nasty if reused again.
As always strictly a opinion,your mileage may vary.
Thanks. I haven't moved the lifters yet. Gonna pull them keeping them in order and in same orientation (towards center line of block). Clean cam as u stated and check for pitting.

I'll be pulling the cam this weekend. Post pics when I do.
 
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