2003 Evinrude 250 FICT - Stumped

Faztbullet

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You cant use EV diagnostics to trouble shoot the PDP. The 1 volt drop is normal as the relays are drawing current from system. And thats a 40amp relay.


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Crosbyman

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ok if TT works and the engine does not then that clears up the main power into the PDP power

seems that cooling down brings it back to life.... one method you can try is to excelerate (reduce) the cooling of suspect components. A can of cooling refrigerant from the local electronics shop will let you cool down parts (ex: fat capacitor) . work methodically and eliminate suspect parts one at a time.

if conclusive repeat the test to confirm. keep the key on START as you probe around with the coolant


common $4 keyboard spray from the Dollar store with the can help upside down may work.


check for vapour flamability
 

j_eizy

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Aug 19, 2022
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You cant use EV diagnostics to trouble shoot the PDP. The 1 volt drop is normal as the relays are drawing current from system. And thats a 40amp relay.


View attachment 369127
The 1 voltage drop occurs before the engine the is one. The drop occurs at the wires exiting PDP on the page before with only the ignition key on.
 

j_eizy

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Joined
Aug 19, 2022
Messages
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ok if TT works and the engine does not then that clears up the main power into the PDP power

seems that cooling down brings it back to life.... one method you can try is to excelerate (reduce) the cooling of suspect components. A can of cooling refrigerant from the local electronics shop will let you cool down parts (ex: fat capacitor) . work methodically and eliminate suspect parts one at a time.

if conclusive repeat the test to confirm. keep the key on START as you probe around with the coolant


common $4 keyboard spray from the Dollar store with the can help upside down may work.


check for vapour flamability
Do you not think the 1 voltage drop across the relay could be what is causing the increased heat and eventually why the EMM shuts off?
 

Crosbyman

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4,997
if heat is shutting off the Emm it would have logged fault codes to that effect ....long ago.

with no EMM codes one must assume the EMM is not initating the shut down. The cause certainly looks external

nonetheless nothing wrong with check water flow or temperature via the EMM

this looks like purely electrical issue and will require patience to zero in on the problem.

take voltage sample readings where you can and compare things when the engine shuts down. try to locate any compromising heat with an IR temperature

scan key areas of the engine..... take readings and compare with the readings in failure mode.

patience brings joy.....

have you cleaned up all connectors on the EMM ....???
 

j_eizy

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Here is the voltage readings coming out of each wire on the PDP. As you can see the EMM and start stop iginiton circuit as well as many others are getting a 1 voltage drop with the engine off. Under load this voltage drop could be dropping lower allowing for build up of heat and eventually shutting down the EMM hence why we see no error codes on the EMM. Going to give DFI a call now.
 

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Crosbyman

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you have circuits which have voltage flowing via blocking diodes and diode do cause voltage drops so a 1volt drop does not seems exhorbitant as long as any associated connection is solid..btw diode can be affected by heat and cause an increase in voltage drop which may mess things up EMM wise. hard to say . scan the diode to see if they get HOT !!


kind of hard to pick up a component inside the EMM which suddenly opens up when to hot. the trouble case provided indicates your EMM may be at fault.

why not do an IR scan before spending $$$ to much money on a rebuild.


up to you.
 

j_eizy

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you have circuits which have voltage flowing via blocking diodes and diode do cause voltage drops so a 1volt drop does not seems exhorbitant as long as any associated connection is solid..btw diode can be affected by heat and cause an increase in voltage drop which may mess things up EMM wise. hard to say . scan the diode to see if they get HOT !!


kind of hard to pick up a component inside the EMM which suddenly opens up when to hot. the trouble case provided indicates your EMM may be at fault.

why not do an IR scan before spending $$$ to much money on a rebuild.


up to you.
got it. Will try an IR gun this weekend. See if we can find the hot spot on the PDP or EMM
 

j_eizy

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Found two cold solders in PDP, still not fix the issue. EMM is packed up and being shipped to Chet at DFI right now.
 

Crosbyman

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I guess it is possible the EMM was a victim of flaky cold solder joints much like an EMM can be damaged by using wing nuts on the battery post

keep us posted ! good find on the PDP !!
 

j_eizy

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This has been a long road for you guys, hope this completes it.
We sure hope so too. 2022 fishing season was a season of repairs. Fingers crossed Chet gets us back in the water for the last month. At least we will have the utmost confidence in the boat.
 

j_eizy

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EMM failed DFI test and Chet fixed it and should arrive monday. Waiting to get a hold of him to figure out what exactly was wrong with it. Water test either monday evening or tuesday. fingers crossed
 

j_eizy

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Well, Chet at DFI got us back on the water. If your boat is having similar symptoms or giving the three red light middle finger on the tach, don't waste your time and money trying to figure it out, just send your EMM to Chet for a test and most likely repair. Thread closed.
 

Crosbyman

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almost closed.....

Did Chet give you an idea of exactly what failed in your EMM ???
 

j_eizy

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almost closed.....

Did Chet give you an idea of exactly what failed in your EMM ???
Positive temperature coefficient (PTC) sensor failed and needed replacement. He also re-calibrated our EMM. Engine ran and sounded great. About 1.5 gph more efficient now at equivalent RPM.
 
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