2002 Mastercraft 5.7 harmonic balancer moving in and out

jchandu

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2002 Mastercraft 5.7 liter M/C Tbi engine
See picture for serial number and model number.

The harmonic balancer moves in and out approx. 1/2”; removed harmonic pulley and timing cover to expose timing chain and gears. Using the harmonic balancer bolt, the “crankshaft” can be pulled and pushed 1/2” approx. (See video file).

What could cause this? A thrust washer / bearing?
 

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Scott Danforth

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First, normally there is an interference fit between the crank and damper

Second, the bolt in the end of the crank would hold the damper tight

Are you missing the bolt. If so, replace the damper, inspect the crank snout, replace the bolt

You may have the outer ring moving in and out, which means that you need a new damper
 

jchandu

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Not missing the bolt for the harmonic damper. Damper was very tight onto the crank; took a lot of force with the puller to remove the damper. With the damper removed and the crank gear exposed, the crank still moves in and out 1/2” approx.
 

Scott Danforth

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Not missing the bolt for the harmonic damper. Damper was very tight onto the crank; took a lot of force with the puller to remove the damper. With the damper removed and the crank gear exposed, the crank still moves in and out 1/2” approx.
Time to pull the motor, get it on a stand and pull the pan.

If the crank is moving 1/2". You have serious issues
 

Bt Doctur

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Would not be surprised to have a broken crankshaft on a running motor The snout will fall off when you remove #1` bearing cap.
 

Bt Doctur

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Its what happened to one of my customers motors. Claimed the pully was moving and I said impossible . It has 3 bolts and a nose bolt. Pulled the motor and when #1 cap was removed the broken part fell out
 

jimmbo

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Its what happened to one of my customers motors. Claimed the pully was moving and I said impossible . It has 3 bolts and a nose bolt. Pulled the motor and when #1 cap was removed the broken part fell out
Would love to see pictures of the Crank. I am not Doubting you, I would just like to see how a Crank breaks. Google here I come...
 

jchandu

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Well, I was not planning on rebuilding this motor. However, I agree the crank appears to be cracked.

This is an Indmar engine, using a GMC 5.7 Vortec block. What aspects of this motor is different from a mercruiser? Where do you suggest we order parts from?
 

jchandu

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Can you expand on that, are you suggesting a “two piece” crankshaft? In other words a crankshaft with a “snout” attached to the end? Or are you saying that it is broken and you are using the “snout” as a door stop?
 

Scott06

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Not missing the bolt for the harmonic damper. Damper was very tight onto the crank; took a lot of force with the puller to remove the damper. With the damper removed and the crank gear exposed, the crank still moves in and out 1/2” approx.
That is the crank moving- did you break the crank ? what is the history here either way motor needs a tear down to find out
 

Scott06

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Well, I was not planning on rebuilding this motor. However, I agree the crank appears to be cracked.

This is an Indmar engine, using a GMC 5.7 Vortec block. What aspects of this motor is different from a mercruiser? Where do you suggest we order parts from?
You can use GM parts or aftermarket crank intended for a chevy vortec 5.7 from a place like summit racing or jegs
 

Scott06

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Can you expand on that, are you suggesting a “two piece” crankshaft? In other words a crankshaft with a “snout” attached to the end? Or are you saying that it is broken and you are using the “snout” as a door stop?
broken and using it for a door stop. I think you will have a door stop too unfortunately...
 

jchandu

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Thanks everyone for your insights and comments. I will post pictures and findings as soon as I can.
 

Scott Danforth

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Well, I was not planning on rebuilding this motor. However, I agree the crank appears to be cracked.

This is an Indmar engine, using a GMC 5.7 Vortec block. What aspects of this motor is different from a mercruiser? Where do you suggest we order parts from?
both are General Motors truck motors, blocks, heads and rotating assemblies.

from there Indmar bolts on their intake manifold, their exhaust manifolds, all their accessories, etc. they may also spec a different cam.

Mercruiser gets the same General Motors truck block, rotating assembly, heads, and the stock GM cam. then they bolt their bits to the motor.

Indmar generally is a hotter engine than mercruiser

Can you expand on that, are you suggesting a “two piece” crankshaft? In other words a crankshaft with a “snout” attached to the end? Or are you saying that it is broken and you are using the “snout” as a door stop?

the crank is junk. and if the motor was running with a broken crank. my guess is that at least 1 or two rods are now junk too. bearing cap may be junk. block will need to be inspected.

generally a crank breaks from a bad or poor balance job and a slight imperfection in the crank.

a slight imbalance and the imperfection simply start a crack at the stress riser and after a few thousand cycles (rotations) the crack starts to go. it may take 20 hours of cycling for the crack to start. however it only takes a few cycles after that for the crack to propagate thru the crank.

of the broken cranks I have had over the years. 2 were casting inclusions (buick cranks), about 5 were a nick in the radius from welding/grinding, the remainder were abuse ranging from too much go-juice to just a slight over-pressure to way over-reving from missing a downshift
 

nola mike

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Can someone explain to me how the hell this would run without your camshaft turning? Certainly can't run for very long...
 

Scott Danforth

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Can someone explain to me how the hell this would run without your camshaft turning? Certainly can't run for very long...
If the crank breaks at about a 45 degree angle, it will drive the snout... Ish.... But make a racket
 
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