2002 240 Four Winns Volvo 5.7 Penta winterization process

stevenhickeys

Seaman
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
53
Hello, I purchased as 24' Four Winns open bow boat last week and sadly in a couple of months I will need to put her to bed for the winter. I have never winterized a boat or motor of this size so I was hoping someone could advise me of the procedure, amount of anti-freeze and the type of outdrive oil I should use to winterize this boat. I have a barn so it will be stored out of the elements if that helps..... Thanks in advance for any advice and recommendations..... BTW the boat did not come with any owners manual :(
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,686
If you will be changing motor oil and outdrive oil, for the engine you can use a 15w/40 like Rotella, or a 25/40 like that sold by Merc or Quicksilver, the drive oil you should be using Volvo's I have heard of problems using other brands.
For the engine winterization, after changing the motor and drive oil (I always like to run it again to check for leaks, proper level) if you have a carburated engine (GL is a carb correct?) I would fog the engine through the carb to protect the cyls and valves from moisture over the winter.
After that, you have to be careful to drain everything where water is present, the V8 engine has 2 drain plugs on either side of the block forward of the starter on the starboard side and the oil filter mount on the port side, they can be tough to get at but you must drain them and poke the holes to make sure rust flakes are not clogging the drain. Next for the engine, you remove the bottom end of the big hose connecting the front water circulation pump to the thermostat housing, and let that drain. You can reconnect that hose and replace the drain plugs.
You will also drain the exhaust manifolds, via the drain plugs, they can be on the bottom edge or rear edge of the manifolds. Poke those holes too.
For your raw water intake system first mark the hoses on the impeller housing so you don't mix them up and disconnect them. For the one going up to the thermostat housing, just make sure it drains, then you can re-connect it. For the one that comes up from the transom mount, point it down in the bilge to drain it. For the next step make sure the outdrive is all the way down. Now hold up the hose and fill it with whatever marine antifreeze (if it gets really cold where you are, then use -100) till it runs out of the water intakes of the outdrive. This will push any residual water out of that hose & the P/S cooler on the back of the engine. Reconnect those hoses.
If you want to fill the now empty engine & exhaust with AF, here's how I do it. Disconnect the top end of that big hose that runs between the water circulating pump and the stat housing. Put a funnel in it and fill it till it spurts out of the 'stat housing. Now the engine is full, reconnect the hose.
You can fill the manifolds the same way via the hoses from the stat housing. When they are full you will hear AF running out on the ground. This method is safer than trying to suck in AF via the water muffs on the outdrive. Keep in mind you must use a non toxic antifreeze for this, no matter what you do some will get spilled on the ground. You're going to need about 5 gallons of AF for the V8 engine.
I remove the outdrive after doing all this to check the bellows, gimble bearing and u joints. Then reinstall it in the spring.
 

ESGWheel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
469
More than likely the “boat owner’s manual” would not go into how to winterize so get the OEM manuals for the motor and sterndrive, see link.

Also see this thread (link) post 87 - 89 about freshwater flush for the engine for next season start up, etc. There are two types and only one can be used on a garden hose, else need to use muffs.
 

stevenhickeys

Seaman
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
53
Thanks so much for that information…..the old boat I have been winterizing had a straight 6 GM 250 motor which had 3 drain cocks and needed @ 2 gallons of antifreeze….the information you guys gave me for this 5.7 will be condensed into a check list so I can follow it every fall…..thanks again for the information!!
 

SHickey

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
259
Wish me luck boys.....sadly I will be finally winterizing the old girl and parking her in the corner of my barn tomorrow......thanks for all of the great procedure information shared in this thread.....
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,686
It's not that hard, just make sure to poke all the drain holes, due to the way cast iron corrodes, rust flakes can clog the block and manifold drains.
I also like to coat the hose flanges with marine grease, this helps the hoses not get rusted on to the water pump and thermostat housing and makes the removal next season easier.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,579
There is a winterizing sticky.

 
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