2000 Johnson 225 won't go past 1500rpm

andyjwow

Cadet
Joined
Jul 29, 2015
Messages
17
This might be a long post so I'll short hand it. Put a used lower unit on and took it to two 8 hour bass tournaments ran good besides a notice in taking off, seemed like a little less power but ran top end speed of last lower unit. Gearing maybe or part of problem. My oil water 2 seals had to be changed due to oil leaking out. I just put 2 new seals in my last lower unit so I took the black housing out with the seals in it behind the prop. And switched it with my current lower unit so I didn't have to buy more seals. Took it out and it would start first turn and idle fine. Took off and rpm would not pass 1500. Went home and checked fuel lines then checked fire on plugs. Right bank all 3 not firin. Did research and saw something about the shift switch. I put a ohm meter on the black plug with the yellow and black or purple cant remember. It was reading weird so I just unplugged it and fired it up and the right bank fired. I read about it not coming out of foward gear with it unplugged. But my boat idles lower so I took it out to test it. Still my rpm didn't rise above 1500. Took cover off and right bank was firing. Do I need to put the black housing back in? It was all the same besides maybe the 2 pin bearings in it might have or looked kinda different. But I rammed it to 5500 rpm in neutral in the water. Didn't happen until I changed that seal housing. Do I check my power head or my coils? Do I sink it in the middle of the lake lol?
Thanks
andy
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
Ok you have multiple issues going on.

1 - you need to replace the Shift Interrupter (not hard)...that should only stop 3 cylinders as you you shift and it is momentary. (I forget if it interrupts coming from FWD to N or from N to R or F...I think the latter)

2 - you need to get a multimeter and DVA adapter and test leads. The test leads can be bought at CDI electronics...it allows you to have a way to test the wires whilst still be connected. I suspect your stator and/or magnets...(your flywheel may not have glued in magnets, but if they DO and they moved or came out, then you won't have the correct voltage to the powerpacks and you won't get up on plane.

You will be testing the OHMs between several wires first (you can do that with just the mete), then you'll be testing the cranking voltage of those same wires (you need the test leads and DVA adapter to do that).

Do not rev up the engine to 5000 whilst in N...it is bad for the motor. I think 3K should be the max you go in N in water or tank.
 

andyjwow

Cadet
Joined
Jul 29, 2015
Messages
17
I have a buddy coming over Friday with a timing light and spark plug tester I'll make sure to add testing the stator to this. I did notice a small drip of plastic coming from the stator so it has crossed my mind that could be the problem also.
I have been trying to find an actual manual for my boat but only ones im seeing are like 75-100$. Is there a website with digital download manuals?

About the housing, I don't think it's upside down but i could be wrong. It has that tab on it that I thought went into the cut out grove inside the lower unit housing. Like there was one on the left and right for the locking tabs and on top was a cut out for that tab on top of the black plastic thing to fit in. Is this correct? I was trying to look at my old one and how I took it out to put in my new one and I actually took it back out because I thought I had it upside down, but saw the grove on top and put it back in thinking I had it right.

Thanks guys
 
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